My 02 Avalanche NFE

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
You got a cool looking rig and great to see that you're out on the trails using it like it was meant to be. I have no problems running my 37s at highway speeds with 4.10 gears in a Suburban, how much of a difference did the 4.88s make for you? Your motor must be revving like crazy on the highway.

Also very good write up on the snorkel, I am in the process of putting one on right now and sealing the factory airbox.

Cheers
 

Stryder106

Explorer
You got a cool looking rig and great to see that you're out on the trails using it like it was meant to be. I have no problems running my 37s at highway speeds with 4.10 gears in a Suburban, how much of a difference did the 4.88s make for you? Your motor must be revving like crazy on the highway.

Also very good write up on the snorkel, I am in the process of putting one on right now and sealing the factory airbox.

Cheers

Thanks. With 4.88s and 35" tires - I'm turning 2000 RPM at 60 MPH, 2200 RPM at 65MPH, 2350 RPM at 70MPH. I usually set my cruise at 65MPH. My Av is an NFE meaning it came stock with 4.10 gears - with the 31" Goodyear ATs from the factory - at 70MPH I'm actually only taching 120RPM more than factory stock.

On the snorkel, if your fender is like mine - it has 3 layers of sheet metal to cut through. I was shocked...........
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Man the way you are upgrading pretty soon the only original item underneath will be the frame :)

Did you post a trip report / pics from that last big outing, the one you got the additional GoPro for? Interested to see the views
 

Stryder106

Explorer
Man the way you are upgrading pretty soon the only original item underneath will be the frame :)

Did you post a trip report / pics from that last big outing, the one you got the additional GoPro for? Interested to see the views

Pretty much - and that has been stiffened with the sliders welded into it. No on the trip report - PM me and I'll explain.
 

Stryder106

Explorer
Man the way you are upgrading pretty soon the only original item underneath will be the frame :)

Did you post a trip report / pics from that last big outing, the one you got the additional GoPro for? Interested to see the views

Pretty much - and that has been stiffened with the sliders welded into it. No on the trip report - PM me and I'll explain.
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Thanks. With 4.88s and 35" tires - I'm turning 2000 RPM at 60 MPH, 2200 RPM at 65MPH, 2350 RPM at 70MPH. I usually set my cruise at 65MPH. My Av is an NFE meaning it came stock with 4.10 gears - with the 31" Goodyear ATs from the factory - at 70MPH I'm actually only taching 120RPM more than factory stock.

On the snorkel, if your fender is like mine - it has 3 layers of sheet metal to cut through. I was shocked...........

Stryder106,

Yeah, I must have missed the 3 layers of metal detail when I started cutting with the hole saw, sawzall came out to finish making the rest of the cuts.

I'm using the factory box and trying to seal it and connect it to the snorkel, still have some adjusting to do before I drill the fender holes and tap the A-pillar.

Didn't see it in your build but did you ever do the 07 front brake conversion?
 

Stryder106

Explorer
Stryder106,

Yeah, I must have missed the 3 layers of metal detail when I started cutting with the hole saw, sawzall came out to finish making the rest of the cuts.

I'm using the factory box and trying to seal it and connect it to the snorkel, still have some adjusting to do before I drill the fender holes and tap the A-pillar.

Didn't see it in your build but did you ever do the 07 front brake conversion?

On my snorkel - I couldn't get it to seal to the factory box (different shape opening). One guy with a Tahoe used his factory box, but mine would not seal. I had my engine running and was spraying carb cleaner next to the seal and the RPMs would increase - that means it's sucking in air. No matter what I did I could not get it fully sealed. So I installed an S&B Cold Air Intake and had them customize an airbox for me (they left it solid instead of routing out the side and bottom. That let me make my own opening, plus gave me a bigger and straighter intake tube to the engine. I also fabbed an aluminum top cap (instead of their thin plastic) to keep it from flexing so that it would stay sealed. I do wish I could have made my factory box work as I preferred the top clamp down style. If you get it figured out, send me some pics.

The front brake conversion - yes I did that. I went with the PowerStop Z36 kit for the 07 Tahoe. 1" bigger rotor and a much bigger caliper. I have 17" wheels so it all bolted up just fine. Stopping power was impressively better - but the brakes on these things are so bad to begin with (I'm the original owner and I've been complaining about it since Day 2). I was going to do the hydroboost conversion, but decided against it when a friend of mine related the story of his converted Bronco that stalled while on a steep rutted decline shelf road. No engine - no brakes. He was freewheeling. He told me when he got home the first thing he did was get rid of the hydroboost. So - no longer going that route. I picked up some EBC YellowStuff brake pads that are supposed to be really aggressive and cut stopping distance by ~30%. They won't live as long and will likely produce dust (but my wheels are black anyway) - but if they increase the braking prowess then I'm all for it.
 
I'm looking forward to your review on the RCV axles. Its something I've been wanting to upgrade for so long, I'm down to about 2-3 CV axles per year I go thru now, yea seriously... But the cost has me putting it off for other upgrades
 
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Stryder106

Explorer
I'm looking forward to your review on the RCV axles. Its something I've been wanting to upgrade for so long, I'm down to about 2-3 CV axles per year I go thru now, yea seriously... But the cost has me putting it off for other upgrades

Yeah - I'm gathering parts right now. Got the axles and the SuperSteer idler brace with the Cognito weld in gusset. Just ordered: Moog PS HD idler and pitman arms, upper intermediate shaft and steering bearing, and EBC Yellow Stuff pads. Looking to order Sway Away torsion bars in the #8k-#10k range. Then put it all together and see how she drives.
 

Stryder106

Explorer
Man the way you are upgrading pretty soon the only original item underneath will be the frame :)

Did you post a trip report / pics from that last big outing, the one you got the additional GoPro for? Interested to see the views

Rayra - did you ever get your Transmission gauge sorted out? I ordered a new cluster plate that had the trans temp gauge face, but when I pulled my cluster apart - there was no stepper motor in that spot. I did a little checking and found that the 2002 is the only one that you have to replace the entire cluster. So - I sent it back. I have a 100% aftermarket trans and a 30000lbs transcooler - my trans has never gotten hot even when crawling through sand in a box canyon in 115 degree heat.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Rayra - did you ever get your Transmission gauge sorted out? I ordered a new cluster plate that had the trans temp gauge face, but when I pulled my cluster apart - there was no stepper motor in that spot. I did a little checking and found that the 2002 is the only one that you have to replace the entire cluster. So - I sent it back. I have a 100% aftermarket trans and a 30000lbs transcooler - my trans has never gotten hot even when crawling through sand in a box canyon in 115 degree heat.
I think my addign the stepper actually did work for a short time, but I think it's failed with a cold solder joint. I didn't have the little metal spring claw things that the stepper pins go into in that spot on the cluster circuit board (PCB). So I'd 'improvised' and wrapped fine stranded wire on the pins to bridge the gaps of the square holes on the PCB and soldered it up. But it crapped out with a quickness.
Abot the same time I found the right software pick in the Torque app and am able to get my trans temp (after using the wrong data stream initially) and now I'm getting fine readings. And especially since I upped the size of the trans cooler. Sometimes I still think to add a manual gauge to confirm the data channel info. Also looking at display options that I can custom fit at the top of my custom center radio console. But my tablet and $5 app and bluetooth OBDII transmitter is altogether about $120, so f spending much more than that to re-do it. I need to use that money on other goodies / projects.
Also thought about adding a double- or triple gauge pod on the A-pillar, voltmeter on the Aux btry, trans temp, maybe even two, measuring fluid coming out of trans before the radiator and fluid temp leaving the coolers heading for the trans. But again that's another ~~$350 better spent elsewhere.
 

Stryder106

Explorer
Alright Y'All - finally got the front end sorted out. Installed the RCV axles - these things are MASSIVE. Note the length difference - this is because there is a machined metal cap that APPEARS to be part of the main axle housing but is actually on there for shipping to hold in the grease (RCV could shave some cost by using plastic and make it more obvious that those need to be removed.

In any event, these things are STOUT. Ignore the length (as mentioned above) - but look at the size difference in the shaft and joint.


IMG_1964.PNG

These have what is called a "wet joint" - meaning they are packed with grease and will sling it all over your vehicle until gets to the correct amount - then it stops slinging. UGH!!!!! The good news with that is it will also sling out water and these have zerk fittings for easy maintenance. The Kevlar and silicone boots sure are heavy duty compared to stock rubber.
IMG_1958.JPG

Also added the Super Steer heavy duty idler assembly and the Cognito weld in gusset along with a new idler arm, pitman arm, intermediate shaft, and steering bearing.

IMG_1961.JPG
 

Stryder106

Explorer
After all of that, most of you know I have been on the hunt for a better brake solution since I bought this thing brand new in 2002. I have Powerstop Z36 rotors in the rear, with Powerstop Z36 calipers and rotors in the front (bigger for the 2007 Tahoe). I have also pulled the fuse on my ABS (this helps a lot with the braking on these trucks - particularly in dirt). I was also toying with the notion of doing the hydroboost conversion - but decided to scrap that idea after some more in depth research revealed a lot of downsides and very iffy results.

So - I have now added EBC Yellow Stuff brake pads on all four corners and they make a huge difference . For the first time, this thing actually feels like it will stop in a reasonable distance.

I've now developed a rough idle (spotty) and a drop in MPG (pre-axles). Put it on a scanner and am getting random misfire codes on 2,3,4,6. So, I bought some Taylor 10.4mm Thundervolt wires, MSD Iridium spark plugs, and new coil packs (MSD) and will be putting those in this week.
 

Stryder106

Explorer
Update time. The MSD coil packs, Thundervolt 10.4mm wires, and new MSD plugs eliminated the rough idle and random misfire.

The biggie - SEATS: Many of you know I have been looking into new seats or getting my seats redone for over a year. My driver's side seat had completely broken down on the lower left and would leave me with a very sore back after just a few hours of drive time - not good. Given my Avalanche is an NFE - the interior was only made for a few years and could not be replaced. I also wasn't keen on using leather again since it doesn't breathe at all and leads to very sweaty backs during long treks. I was only looking to replace/redo my front two seats as my rear seat is like brand new.

After MANY visits to auto-upholsterers - none of them could match the OD green of the rear and I wasn't really keen on just changing the color of my front seats - because then it would look like I just swapped front seats out of an NFE. So, I started researching aftermarket seats (Mastercraft Safety (civilian and military), Corbeau, Beard, Sparco, etc). Complicating factors with the Avalanche seats are: Side Seat air bags and integrated seatbelts - both of which would have to be dealt with for an after-market seat to work. The other complicating factor is the NFE edition has integrated clips in the seats to mount a special day pack on the back of each seat - both of which I have and use as 1) Air inflation/deflation kit and 2) First Aid Kit.

After a ton of research, sitting in and looking at all of the seats, I came to the conclusion that while they are all great seats - they are upgrades from a stock Jeep-type of seat, but not from a top of the line GM vehicle. Comparing to fully featured GM seats they are a major downgrade. Note - I am not looking for a single piece molded race seat as this is also my daily driver.

Then - I read Chris Cordes' article (here on ExPo) about Scheel-Mann seats. So - I started doing some research. I liked what I saw and read. I spoke with Chris and arranged to meet up with him at Overland Expo West and sit in his vehicle to try them out. I spoke with Toby Pond - the Scheel-Mann USA rep and discussed: details, options, my challenges, and potential solutions. we agreed to meet at Overland Expo West and he would help me out.

I came away from Overland Expo West with the Scheel-Mann Vario F (not the XXL as Chris has - we did not connect up, but I sat in his seats because he left his truck unlocked :) ) as the front runner - but that still meant I had to deal with seat belts and air bags. To give you an idea - my stock GM seat back are 22" tall, the Scheel-Mann Vario F is 24" tall, and the XXL F is 27". If I were 6'3" or better then I would have gone with the XXL F - but at 6'1" - the F fit me just right.

So - after the Expo and ringing endorsements from several people who have these and spend time measured in years in them, I was pretty convinced - then the price - OUCH. They are seriously expensive - as in for the price of two seats I could buy a used Jeep XJ expensive. But, they are orthopedic, 10 way adjustable - for things like femur length and bolster tension that pretty much assures you will have no back or hip pain/fatigue at the end of a drive - no matter how long it is. Also, the cloth in the middle is temperature neutral - it doesn't get hot or cold.

With that said, I bit the bullet - it was hard. Think grandma forcing your 6 year old self to swallow a table spoon of Castor Oil kinda hard. The rest of the challenges were figured out with: 1) Corbeau 3 point retracting seatbelts, resistors to plug into the now disconnected seat harness to prevent the airbag light from being on, and threaded seat belt mounting plates.

The Vario F seats Toby had in stock were solid black with the checked cloth middle - which I wanted. They also had seat heaters - which I didn't really want - but I also didn't want to wait until late September to order them in. So, I now have heaters to wire in. My stock seats also had arm rests - which I actually used, so I opted to get the arm rests for these as well - this introduced the current challenge that I'll get to in a bit.

With that said, the seats phenomenal - the look amazing and feel better (and I haven't fully adjusted them yet). However, NONE of my GM electronics or rails/brackets could be used (was hoping I could) so had to fab new brackets to mount the manual slide rails to. My buddy in his wisdom thought to make the brackets height adjustable (good thing - again reference to the current as yet to be mentioned challenge).

In the Avalanche B pillar two main mounting points - upper and lower - GM left big open areas. So, welded steel into both areas to create attachment point for the shoulder and the retractor. As for the resistor - they are male. Well - GM car harness side is also male. So, my friend made up some female sleeves to go over both male ends - voila - airbag light - OFF.

Now, for the current challenge. I did not account for the fact that in my stock seats, the arm rests fit within the profile of the seat back, whereas the Scheel-Mann's, the arm rest is attached and so sits outside of the backrest footprint. So, with the arm rests attached - the center console is now too wide for the seats to be at the proper height. So, to keep the arm rests and have the seats at proper height - I have to fab up a new center console (yay - I've been wanting to do that anyway).

Here are pics of the seats and brackets upon original install - so sitting up to tall. New console is WIP and I'll post pics of that when done.


Scheel-Mann2.jpgScheel-Mann3.jpgScheel-Mann1.jpg
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
They look real good and I'm not asking the price because I KNOW I cannot afford them.
Upside on a new console is you can go 'vault' style, make something low enough you can actually scramble thru to the back or stand on (can't recall if you have the sun.moon roof?) but most of all you can re-coup all the wasted volume of the factory center console. That bucket in there is probably less than 1/3 the total volume of the factory console outer shell. That includes all the wasted space under the cupholders.
You could put a lot of useful things / features in that larger volume.

/hmmm come to think of it, could probably fit a carbine under there....
eta hmmm, it is ~27"...
 
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