Multimeter recommendations

Happy Joe

Apprentice Geezer
I use (assorted) Flukes for significant things and carry a FREE (with coupon) harbor freight in each vehicle (check the battery yearly when you check the vehicle flashlight).

Enjoy!
 

sonoronos

Usually broken down on the side of the road
not much to add here in addition to what has already been posted, but i'll say the features that i find the most useful are:

backlight
auto ranging
vdc, vac, resistance
audible continuity

and that's about it for me as far as measuring stuff on a truck goes.

my go-to meter is a 5 year old centech dmm that i got for $13.
 
Last edited:

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
I run a cheap Sperry clamp meter.

It seems than very few clamp meter will measure Amps in DC.

This one happens to be one of them. I've had it for a few years, and so far seems to be a solid unit, seemingly regardless of price.


https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-DSA500A-Snap-Around-Function/dp/B000ET5W0A/ref=asc_df_B000ET5W0A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309775248366&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2747713575390909201&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029641&hvtargid=pla-569028679649&psc=1
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Probably grabbed the wrong link.

Ill check the model # I have and update tomorrow.

One I have does do dc current. And is very handy for troubleshooting vehicle based electronics
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Yep, and is extremely handy, especially for vehicle and camper builds that are battery dependent.
For years I have run using the current rating that the MFG provides for devices (fridge, lighting. radio, etc) for amp hour calcs.
Now I know exactly what each device draws when starting/running. And gives me a good base line for troubleshooting down the road.

Solved a "simple" refrigerator issue a few months ago. What was originally thought to be an electrical or compressor issue was little more than a pinched/rolled door seal.
 

FlipperFla

Active member
Retired Broadcast Techie here! I have had a Fluke 77 my whole career that has been thru hell and back and has never missed a beat, still have it. Bought 2 of the little clamp-on style meters that are pretty nice with no issues at Harbor Freight for around $15 ea. Keep them in the Wifes car and boat tool boxes. If you have the $ go with a Fluke.506751
 

sonoronos

Usually broken down on the side of the road
I've been looking at the EEVBlog forums, and it looks like the Uni-T mini clampmeters seem to have some neat features for someone looking for an "all-in-one" clampmeter and DMM, which can measure current down to the mA. Fairly cheap and small enough keep anywhere.

Here's a blog post summarizing the options:
 

67cj5

Observer
I have multiple Fluke DMMs including 87, 289 and 179 just to name few and never had a problem with any of them. Saying that, for a truck 99% of the time I use Klein CL2000 model. This model has been replaced with CL800 with better parameters. This Klein model is auto ranging, has AC/DC Amp clamp, measure your standard items plus capacity and temp, and has a build in small flash light which is helpfull.
I have had this one for years and it is my truck DMM sitting insude the truck most of the time. Never Left me stranded.

The main reason I like this clamp on meter is that i don't have to break the circuit to measure current draw. Perfect for parasitic draw test and for testing glowplugs on my old 6.5 diesel.

Suposedly the new model, CL800 is even more robust, although i do like build in magnets on my old unit.

Best thing is, you can have it for a fraction of the price of Fluke, and no, Klein is not made in China.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Klein-Tools-CL800-Digital-Clamp-Meter-with-AC-DC-Auto-Ranging/51774049?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227039610443&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=t&wl3=85441306250&wl4=pla-193468501250&wl5=9011040&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=51774049&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlvSTwvGg4AIVF8DICh0gywxLEAQYASABEgJ8HPD_BwE
Funny you should say that because I use to use those UNI-T brand meters until I got a slight difference in their reading So at the Time I went to the main Importers here in the UK and bought the top of the line model which was the Fluke 179 and with less than 25 hours use The Bleep feature has stopped working and I can't work out how to get the back light to stay On, At nearly 7X the price of the UNI-T DMM I thought they were the best thing since sliced bread but alas NOT, and the UNI-T is still going strong, It's a shame because I loved that Fluke 179 and I have treated it with Kid Gloves and it still let me down, I still have it but I am not impressed,
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Are you sure it wasn't a counterfeit? Have seen those in many other brands. You don't notice the difference until you open it up and there are nuts glued inside to make it weigh more...
 

67cj5

Observer
Fluke is still good stuff, but its not John Fluke days anymore...
Sadly alot of premier names in industry is fallen when the balance of profit & perfection is shifted by new owners.
Yeah it's a work of art, But now I need to send it in to get fixed, I cost me £336.00 which is about $440.00 back about 10 years ago, It still works but the bleep has stopped working and even though I had not used it in a while I turned it on to find the main fuse had blown yet it worked fine when I put it away, I have sort of lost faith in Fluke products after buying the best money can buy and it just lets me down and in all honesty I think a person can get by quite well buying a 50/60$$ meter from UNI-T because you can buy 8 of them for the cost of my Fluke 179.
 

67cj5

Observer
Are you sure it wasn't a counterfeit? Have seen those in many other brands. You don't notice the difference until you open it up and there are nuts glued inside to make it weigh more...
No It's the real deal, because I went to the Fluke Importers to buy it and I get the full Tour of their Calibration house and everything and I got their address from Fluke U.S.A.
 
Top