Mojave Road and Death Valley NP March, 2011 ExPo trip report...
- Thread starter Martinjmpr
- Start date
Tbars
Adventurer
..We are a little slow on getting our info up..
..I'm sure there will be more postings to this thread but for now, here are some other post from people who were on parts of this trip..
..Trip starts about bottom of this page...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=293838&page=7
..I'm sure there will be more postings to this thread but for now, here are some other post from people who were on parts of this trip..
..Trip starts about bottom of this page...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=293838&page=7
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Desert Expedition 2011 - Part 1 (1)
Desert Expedition 2011
Part 1 – Bullhead City to Barstow via The Mojave Road
Wow! What a trip! 5347 miles, 986 photographs, and memories to last a lifetime.
The expedition started on a dreary Monday morning, after an uneventful 2 1/3 day drive across the country to Bullhead City, Arizona. There, I met my Dad, Ted (Tbars4) and Harley (his dog.) We stocked up on provisions at the local grocery store, snapped a few pictures, then headed to the Avi Casino, the official meeting place for this adventure.
At the casino, we met up with Brian (Brian1) and his Dad, Sean (Ritsui) and Rachael (Khiori), and Michael (mjmcdowell). My Dad and I have wheeled with Brian and his Dad several times before (in Colorado). Ted also knew Brian, as well as Sean and Rachael. The only contact any us of had with Michael was on Expedition Portal. He drove all the way to California from New York – without knowing any of us! Was he in for a surprise!
After hellos, introductions and few quick pictures, we were off! The adventure had begun!
First stop – air down. Even though I was the one who put this expedition together, I didn’t feel the need to be the trail leader for the entire trip. Seeing as Brian had run The Mojave Road last year (and I hadn’t run it since 1988) and had the map with waypoints in his GPS, I suggested he lead. I brought up the rear (which was great, as I could stop and take as many pictures as I wanted!)
Not too long after the start of the Road, we stopped to see some petroglyphs. It is amazing to me that these markings on the rocks have withstood the test of time, and remained intact for all these years. I must say, it was/is a very interesting way to communicate.
As we went on down the road, I stopped many times, taking pictures, and
absorbing the vastness of it all. Fortunately, the clouds from the morning had broken up, and we had a beautiful blue sky with white, puffy clouds.
I had to stop for a flex shot…
Next stop was Fort Piute, built in 1867. While only used for six months, it was very well constructed. Its walls remained standing into the 1930s.
Next was the school bus and penny can.
In 2008, a monument was erected in remembrance of the Nevada Southern Railway. Once again, we were reminded of the hard times/work of 100 years ago.
Late in the afternoon, as were debating about where to camp for the night, the weather changed – significantly. The wind picked up speed, and lost temperature. It even acquired some moisture – in the form of snowflakes! For about 20 minutes, we got snowed on by these huge snowflakes. Even though the snow melted on contact with the ground, the cold temperature stayed.
We made camp in a clearing, in front of an old, stone house. Seeing as the building had a fence around it, no one ventured inside. The wind slowed, allowing us to set up camp and eat dinner. It was still cold, but I set up my (brand new, first time use) shower shelter. Not sure if I was going to take a shower, it was also good for the portable toilet.
Dinner was finished as the sun was setting. The night sky brought with it colder temperatures. Everyone crawled in their sleeping bags – no stories around the fire tonight.
I have owned my truck for 17 years, and it has carried the camper shell for 11 years – but I have never slept in it. I have always used a tent. On this trip, I had my tent, but planned to sleep in the truck on the new sleeping platform I just built. So, first night sleeping in the truck, and it’s 30 degrees outside! (Actually, it was probably warmer in the truck than in a tent.)
The wind blew most of the night. I woke up around 2:00 in the morning, to a really strong wind. I thought I should check on our gear outside the truck – it was windy enough, that I was concerned. Good thing I looked! The shower enclosure was lying on its side – the wind blew hard enough to pull the stakes out of the ground. Now the realization hits that I have to go outside, disassemble it, and put it in the truck – or, it will probably be blown across the desert floor. Did I mention it was cold outside – and I was nice and warm in my sleeping bag?
Once I got dressed and out of the truck, it wasn’t that bad outside. The wind had slowed, and there were absolutely no clouds in the sky. It was a beautiful, clear, crisp night sky. Couldn’t ask for anything better.
Here’s a view of “home”, the morning after the first night. It’s actually roomier than it looks.
Desert Expedition 2011
Part 1 – Bullhead City to Barstow via The Mojave Road
Wow! What a trip! 5347 miles, 986 photographs, and memories to last a lifetime.
The expedition started on a dreary Monday morning, after an uneventful 2 1/3 day drive across the country to Bullhead City, Arizona. There, I met my Dad, Ted (Tbars4) and Harley (his dog.) We stocked up on provisions at the local grocery store, snapped a few pictures, then headed to the Avi Casino, the official meeting place for this adventure.
At the casino, we met up with Brian (Brian1) and his Dad, Sean (Ritsui) and Rachael (Khiori), and Michael (mjmcdowell). My Dad and I have wheeled with Brian and his Dad several times before (in Colorado). Ted also knew Brian, as well as Sean and Rachael. The only contact any us of had with Michael was on Expedition Portal. He drove all the way to California from New York – without knowing any of us! Was he in for a surprise!
After hellos, introductions and few quick pictures, we were off! The adventure had begun!
First stop – air down. Even though I was the one who put this expedition together, I didn’t feel the need to be the trail leader for the entire trip. Seeing as Brian had run The Mojave Road last year (and I hadn’t run it since 1988) and had the map with waypoints in his GPS, I suggested he lead. I brought up the rear (which was great, as I could stop and take as many pictures as I wanted!)
Not too long after the start of the Road, we stopped to see some petroglyphs. It is amazing to me that these markings on the rocks have withstood the test of time, and remained intact for all these years. I must say, it was/is a very interesting way to communicate.
As we went on down the road, I stopped many times, taking pictures, and
absorbing the vastness of it all. Fortunately, the clouds from the morning had broken up, and we had a beautiful blue sky with white, puffy clouds.
I had to stop for a flex shot…
Next stop was Fort Piute, built in 1867. While only used for six months, it was very well constructed. Its walls remained standing into the 1930s.
Next was the school bus and penny can.
In 2008, a monument was erected in remembrance of the Nevada Southern Railway. Once again, we were reminded of the hard times/work of 100 years ago.
Late in the afternoon, as were debating about where to camp for the night, the weather changed – significantly. The wind picked up speed, and lost temperature. It even acquired some moisture – in the form of snowflakes! For about 20 minutes, we got snowed on by these huge snowflakes. Even though the snow melted on contact with the ground, the cold temperature stayed.
We made camp in a clearing, in front of an old, stone house. Seeing as the building had a fence around it, no one ventured inside. The wind slowed, allowing us to set up camp and eat dinner. It was still cold, but I set up my (brand new, first time use) shower shelter. Not sure if I was going to take a shower, it was also good for the portable toilet.
Dinner was finished as the sun was setting. The night sky brought with it colder temperatures. Everyone crawled in their sleeping bags – no stories around the fire tonight.
I have owned my truck for 17 years, and it has carried the camper shell for 11 years – but I have never slept in it. I have always used a tent. On this trip, I had my tent, but planned to sleep in the truck on the new sleeping platform I just built. So, first night sleeping in the truck, and it’s 30 degrees outside! (Actually, it was probably warmer in the truck than in a tent.)
The wind blew most of the night. I woke up around 2:00 in the morning, to a really strong wind. I thought I should check on our gear outside the truck – it was windy enough, that I was concerned. Good thing I looked! The shower enclosure was lying on its side – the wind blew hard enough to pull the stakes out of the ground. Now the realization hits that I have to go outside, disassemble it, and put it in the truck – or, it will probably be blown across the desert floor. Did I mention it was cold outside – and I was nice and warm in my sleeping bag?
Once I got dressed and out of the truck, it wasn’t that bad outside. The wind had slowed, and there were absolutely no clouds in the sky. It was a beautiful, clear, crisp night sky. Couldn’t ask for anything better.
Here’s a view of “home”, the morning after the first night. It’s actually roomier than it looks.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Desert Expedition 2011 - Part 1 (2)
After a quick breakfast, we headed out. First stop was Rock Spring. We found some petroglyphs there, too. One neat thing about this place, in the Mojave Road Guide, there is a picture of Rock Spring from 1863 or 1864. The rocks are the same, but the level of the wash is different.
Government Holes was the next stopping point on the Road. A nice watering hole – unfortunately, the building where the gunfight on November 8, 1925 took place was no longer there.
We turned south at Kelso-Cima Road, to see Kelso Depot. It has been recently renovated, and has a Ranger, a movie theater, a lunch counter and small museum and gift shop. (Rumor had it there were movie stars in our group – but none of them were in the movie.) Needless to say, we took advantage of all the depot had to offer. And, had the added opportunity to see a Union Pacific train pull into and depart the depot.
Back on the road, the next stop was Marl Springs. Originally a watering hole, there is one arrastra remaining from the early days of gold processing. More recently, cattle were raised and watered here.
After a quick breakfast, we headed out. First stop was Rock Spring. We found some petroglyphs there, too. One neat thing about this place, in the Mojave Road Guide, there is a picture of Rock Spring from 1863 or 1864. The rocks are the same, but the level of the wash is different.
Government Holes was the next stopping point on the Road. A nice watering hole – unfortunately, the building where the gunfight on November 8, 1925 took place was no longer there.
We turned south at Kelso-Cima Road, to see Kelso Depot. It has been recently renovated, and has a Ranger, a movie theater, a lunch counter and small museum and gift shop. (Rumor had it there were movie stars in our group – but none of them were in the movie.) Needless to say, we took advantage of all the depot had to offer. And, had the added opportunity to see a Union Pacific train pull into and depart the depot.
Back on the road, the next stop was Marl Springs. Originally a watering hole, there is one arrastra remaining from the early days of gold processing. More recently, cattle were raised and watered here.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Desert Expedition 2011 - Part 1 (3)
Shortly after Marl Springs, we came to the mailbox. We all signed the book, and took the requisite pictures.
Our second evening’s camp was just after Aiken Cinder Mine Road. Off to the side of the Road, we settled in a nice clearing. Since the weather was much nicer than the previous night, I decided to cook – pizza! Sausage and mushroom pizza, to be exact. It took a long time, but was pretty good. Definitely not your average trail/camp food.
Next morning, we awoke to a beautiful sunrise (complete with the moon!) It looked to be another wonderful day.
Our first stop of the day was at the lava tube. We had to backtrack a short distance to ACM Road, but the detour was well worth it.
A lava tube is an opening in an old lava flow. This particular one is large enough to walk into. (We actually used a ladder to climb down into the “deep” end.) It was very interesting – we could see what appeared to be three layers of lava. The assumption is we were seeing the remains of three separate eruptions – each many years apart.
While at the lava tube, we met a guy from NASA. He explained that NASA is studying lava tubes on Earth to determine if any exist on Mars. The idea behind this is to use a tube as shelter for the astronauts. It will probably be easier and faster to convert an underground shelter than to erect one on the planet’s surface.
After our impromptu science lesson, we meandered across the desert to Soda Lake. We stopped just before crossing the lake to ponder. The big question was whether or not we should cross the lake. It looked dry. After some bargaining, the decision was made for Ted to lead and all of us to stay close together. (I wasn’t too sure about this, but being in the back, I figured I wouldn’t be the one getting stuck!)
As soon as we started across the lake bed, the chatter on the CB picked up – “Is it dry?”, “It’s good and dry”, “Uh-oh”. The caravan stopped. More discussion, then we continued. “How is it?” “Getting soft.” We stopped again. More discussion. This time, we turned around.
Before heading up to Baker and the interstate, to bypass Soda Lake, we stopped at the old Green Rock Mill and Little Cowhole Mountain. A great spot for pictures. Unfortunately, the corral and windmill complex that once stood here have been removed by the NPS.
Once we hit the blacktop, we said goodbye to Brian and his Dad. They headed off to New Mexico, and we went to Baker, where we fueled up, had lunch and visited the world’s largest thermometer.
Heading south on Interstate 15, we exited onto Zzyzx Road, to visit the Zzyzx Resort. In its heyday, I think it was quite a place. Today, (after the Government stole it from the Springers) the facility is the California Desert Studies Consortium, used by several colleges and universities from the California State system and NASA. The buildings are still standing, but the landscape is in desperate need of help.
It was getting late when we departed Zzyzx, and Sean wanted to see the caves in Afton Canyon. Instead of exiting I-15 on Basin Road to get to the Mojave Road, we continued on to Dunn Road (Afton Canyon Campground), taking that to the Mojave Road. Once there, we headed west, past Afton Canyon Campground, and parked by the railroad bridge near The Caves.
The Caves looked to be approximately ½ mile up the canyon. The bottom of the canyon, a wash, was overgrown with scrub brush. There appeared to be a trail along the canyon’s west wall, so we started up it. About half way to the caves, the trail became very rugged and virtually non-existent. That, coupled with rain in the air and impending darkness, caused us to abandon the quest. Next time.
From here, we headed back to the interstate, then west to Barstow for dinner, a shower, and a place to sleep. The original plan called for performing some work/maintenance on the truck – however, we were unable to work on any trucks due to the rain.
Shortly after Marl Springs, we came to the mailbox. We all signed the book, and took the requisite pictures.
Our second evening’s camp was just after Aiken Cinder Mine Road. Off to the side of the Road, we settled in a nice clearing. Since the weather was much nicer than the previous night, I decided to cook – pizza! Sausage and mushroom pizza, to be exact. It took a long time, but was pretty good. Definitely not your average trail/camp food.
Next morning, we awoke to a beautiful sunrise (complete with the moon!) It looked to be another wonderful day.
Our first stop of the day was at the lava tube. We had to backtrack a short distance to ACM Road, but the detour was well worth it.
A lava tube is an opening in an old lava flow. This particular one is large enough to walk into. (We actually used a ladder to climb down into the “deep” end.) It was very interesting – we could see what appeared to be three layers of lava. The assumption is we were seeing the remains of three separate eruptions – each many years apart.
While at the lava tube, we met a guy from NASA. He explained that NASA is studying lava tubes on Earth to determine if any exist on Mars. The idea behind this is to use a tube as shelter for the astronauts. It will probably be easier and faster to convert an underground shelter than to erect one on the planet’s surface.
After our impromptu science lesson, we meandered across the desert to Soda Lake. We stopped just before crossing the lake to ponder. The big question was whether or not we should cross the lake. It looked dry. After some bargaining, the decision was made for Ted to lead and all of us to stay close together. (I wasn’t too sure about this, but being in the back, I figured I wouldn’t be the one getting stuck!)
As soon as we started across the lake bed, the chatter on the CB picked up – “Is it dry?”, “It’s good and dry”, “Uh-oh”. The caravan stopped. More discussion, then we continued. “How is it?” “Getting soft.” We stopped again. More discussion. This time, we turned around.
Before heading up to Baker and the interstate, to bypass Soda Lake, we stopped at the old Green Rock Mill and Little Cowhole Mountain. A great spot for pictures. Unfortunately, the corral and windmill complex that once stood here have been removed by the NPS.
Once we hit the blacktop, we said goodbye to Brian and his Dad. They headed off to New Mexico, and we went to Baker, where we fueled up, had lunch and visited the world’s largest thermometer.
Heading south on Interstate 15, we exited onto Zzyzx Road, to visit the Zzyzx Resort. In its heyday, I think it was quite a place. Today, (after the Government stole it from the Springers) the facility is the California Desert Studies Consortium, used by several colleges and universities from the California State system and NASA. The buildings are still standing, but the landscape is in desperate need of help.
It was getting late when we departed Zzyzx, and Sean wanted to see the caves in Afton Canyon. Instead of exiting I-15 on Basin Road to get to the Mojave Road, we continued on to Dunn Road (Afton Canyon Campground), taking that to the Mojave Road. Once there, we headed west, past Afton Canyon Campground, and parked by the railroad bridge near The Caves.
The Caves looked to be approximately ½ mile up the canyon. The bottom of the canyon, a wash, was overgrown with scrub brush. There appeared to be a trail along the canyon’s west wall, so we started up it. About half way to the caves, the trail became very rugged and virtually non-existent. That, coupled with rain in the air and impending darkness, caused us to abandon the quest. Next time.
From here, we headed back to the interstate, then west to Barstow for dinner, a shower, and a place to sleep. The original plan called for performing some work/maintenance on the truck – however, we were unable to work on any trucks due to the rain.
Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
Great report, Scott. Are you going to post up your pics of the DVNP portion? I'd be interested in seeing those.
Also, when are we going to start planning for our Moab trip? :sombrero: I'm already drooling over some of the Maze pictures. I was in the Maze in 2008 but I stayed above the Flint trail switchbacks so I only got to see part of it. I can tell you the Maze District is an awesome place to go, and virtually deserted most of the time.
Island In The Sky/White Rim might be another possibility. Just something to think about!
Take care!
Also, when are we going to start planning for our Moab trip? :sombrero: I'm already drooling over some of the Maze pictures. I was in the Maze in 2008 but I stayed above the Flint trail switchbacks so I only got to see part of it. I can tell you the Maze District is an awesome place to go, and virtually deserted most of the time.
Island In The Sky/White Rim might be another possibility. Just something to think about!
Take care!
Tbars
Adventurer
..While we are waiting for Scott to reply and post up part's 2 and 3...
..We just started a rough planning of the Moab to Monument Valley trip, discussion thread..
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=320101
..When we get it a little better drawn out, we will start a thread over here too..
..We just started a rough planning of the Moab to Monument Valley trip, discussion thread..
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=320101
..When we get it a little better drawn out, we will start a thread over here too..
Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
..While we are waiting for Scott to reply and post up part's 2 and 3...
..We just started a rough planning of the Moab to Monument Valley trip, discussion thread..
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=320101
..When we get it a little better drawn out, we will start a thread over here too..
Never too early to start "web 'wheeling." :sombrero:
I read the thread over there - wanted to comment but I already belong to enough boards I don't regularly comment on so I'll put my response here:
Moki Dugway: Been there twice, first time in my Taco, second on my motorcycle (Triumph Scrambler.) The road that goes to Moki is paved all the way, the only upaved portion is the dugway itself (i.e. the shelf road that climbs 1100' in about 2 miles up to the top of the plateau.) The road is wide, well graded gravel/dirt and passable by any vehicle (including my street-tire equipped motorcycle.)
Scary to flatlanders, maybe, but it's a big "meh" after you've spent a few years driving in Colorado.
Valley of the Gods: At the base of Moki Dugway, nice thing is it's on BLM land so camping is free. Plenty of primitive campsites, many of them at the base of towering rock monuments. I camped out there in 2008, it was awesome!
White Rim should be great, there are plenty of trails in the Moab/Canyonlands area to keep us busy if we want to stay there. I don't know if there's camping in Monument Valley but since Monument is on the Navajo rez, we would have to pay to camp there. I'd rather camp for nothing at Valley of the Gods.
April is a good time to be there, but it can get cold. Though I don't think it will be nearly as cold as that cold, blustery night near Teakettle junction!
Tbars
Adventurer
...You may be a bit disappointed this time as it seems there will be some flatlanders and some newbies to this trip...
...There will be more time spent "Camping" and taking in the scenery too...One of the main reasons I started the thread over there was to get other new folks involved in this great sport and I didn't want to get the more experienced folks over here upset at that when the time comes to post up the real trip thread...
..Spent a number of years living and wheeling in most of the Southwest States and I never get bored of seeing the big grins on the faces of a newbie after coming off of something like Black Bear Rd. or one of these trips..Hustling them along at a fast pace tends to sour them real easy..Just my thoughts but the more people gently and willingly introduced into this type of trip can be very helpful when it comes time to vote to save our lands that we all enjoy..
...Although I do take my DD on most of these trips..
...If you are looking for something a little more exciting, we do take a little harder offroad camping trips out here from Oct. to January if you're looking for something sooner..I reserve these trips for my "Grocery Getter".
...There will be more time spent "Camping" and taking in the scenery too...One of the main reasons I started the thread over there was to get other new folks involved in this great sport and I didn't want to get the more experienced folks over here upset at that when the time comes to post up the real trip thread...
..Spent a number of years living and wheeling in most of the Southwest States and I never get bored of seeing the big grins on the faces of a newbie after coming off of something like Black Bear Rd. or one of these trips..Hustling them along at a fast pace tends to sour them real easy..Just my thoughts but the more people gently and willingly introduced into this type of trip can be very helpful when it comes time to vote to save our lands that we all enjoy..
...Although I do take my DD on most of these trips..
...If you are looking for something a little more exciting, we do take a little harder offroad camping trips out here from Oct. to January if you're looking for something sooner..I reserve these trips for my "Grocery Getter".
Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
Oh, I didn't mean anything negative with my "flatlander" comment
(I actually live on the plains, not in the mountains ) I simply meant that the "scariness" factor of Moki Dugway is WAAAAY overrated. That road is probably 50' wide, so even though it doesn't have guardrails on most of the climb, you'd have to try pretty hard to fall off. I'm more about the scenery and the camping anyway, especially in that region. 4wd is just a means to an end for me.
Black Bear is on my short list - may try to get out there this summer. Of course, with our winter snowpack at something like 200% of normal :Wow1: , it may be a while before those high passes open!
The Weather
I understand the trip was cold for you, but that was much better than the conditions we had at Stovepipe Wells the weekend of April 1, 2011. Temps were 105 F plus. I can always find another beanie hat or coat to put on, but there is only so much shade you can crawl into.
Not much expedition travel for us. Took parents, grandparents, siblings, uncles, aunts, cousins, daughters, and an 8 month old infant through Titus Canyon. Not challenging trail, but considering the weather and the group I count it as quite the expedition.
The trip teaser you are discussing sounds great. I'm tackling all of my honey-do's so I can negotiate a hall pass to attend.
I understand the trip was cold for you, but that was much better than the conditions we had at Stovepipe Wells the weekend of April 1, 2011. Temps were 105 F plus. I can always find another beanie hat or coat to put on, but there is only so much shade you can crawl into.
Not much expedition travel for us. Took parents, grandparents, siblings, uncles, aunts, cousins, daughters, and an 8 month old infant through Titus Canyon. Not challenging trail, but considering the weather and the group I count it as quite the expedition.
The trip teaser you are discussing sounds great. I'm tackling all of my honey-do's so I can negotiate a hall pass to attend.
Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
It was pretty toasty at Stovepipe Wells when we were there! 90 or close to it in the late afternoon, remember that last stop for ice on Monday afternoon?
My question would be: how was it at the Racetrack on April 1st? It darn sure wasn't 100 degrees!