Modifying the external dimensions of an ISO shipping container...

MTVR

Well-known member
Aside from a lot of cutting, that should work fine. Getting it welded down should be easy albeit alot of fussy work getting it lined up again. Cutting off its floor probably release alot of stresses and allow its walls to spring all over the place.
Removing its floor should reduce weight by a couple thousand pounds too.

We figure the top rails should keep the four corner posts pretty much in place, and it wouldn't be too difficult to push/pull the walls into place as we weld them to the truck bed...
 

MTVR

Well-known member
For all that work it might be cheaper and much lighter using composite panels cut to the right size. Unless a shipping container is somehow core to the design?

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We're considering all options.

Containers are cheap, watertight, and strong.

And at least when we started down this road, the fact that the truck bed has ISO locks designed to mount a container directly to, made it appear simpler to do this. But now we're re-thinking it...
 
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MTVR

Well-known member
Whats the plan for its doors and sill ?
Just leave it attached and hang that down off the end of the flatbed ?

That's still undecided. The truck is sitting in our driveway, the money is in our bank account, but the rest of this is just ideas at this point...
 

Ramdough

Adventurer
I would skip the iso box. They are heavy, they do not lend themselves to putting windows and doors in (no flat walls). They have no insulation, so you loose interior space with the corrugated walls and then insulation. You are wasting money to modify one, just to modify it again to put windows and doors in.

I bet it would be cheaper in the long run to get a box made by Trax Off-road or get panels from Andreas (Victorian).

At least then it would be what you want, and not something you compromised for no significantly beneficial reason.


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shortbus4x4

Expedition Leader
I have to agree with the above and think you would be money and time ahead with something else besides a shipping container. But if you do get a shipping container and cut the bottom out weld in cross pieces every few feet just above where you are cutting it. This will make attaching it to the bed so much easier because your walls won't have sprung out and in. Don't go crazy on the welds as you will be cutting the cross pieces out once the box is attached securely to the bed.
 

MTVR

Well-known member
Thanks, guys. I'm hearing you on all points.

Can anyone provide links to Trax Off-road and/or Andreas (Victorian)?
 

Ramdough

Adventurer
Thanks, guys. I'm hearing you on all points.

Can anyone provide links to Trax Off-road and/or Andreas (Victorian)?

Google “total composites” for Andreas

YouTube has Trax-off grid. His truck is named “Optimus”


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In Australia here - so can't help with finding a composite supplier.

Having built a few truck campers from composites, some of my tips - feel free to ignore...

On my "never again" list, painting the shell. It's messy, stinks, hard work, lots of prep, and probably toxic. Get a composite in any shade of white that you like.

Have a think about how you want to run roof wiring to a fan and lights. My composite guy glues conduit inside the composite panel where I need to run wires. Otherwise you can put in a false ceiling or simply go the industrial look.

Buy pre-made hatches and doors, find a good supplier or get them from Ebay/Amazon. Cheap hatches will still work better than your first few attempts and save you weeks of work.

Fully design, and preferably build the interior in dummy cardboard (or even final build) before ordering the shell. The hatch locations might change the shell, the water fill location might change the shell etc. I actually fully build the interior, run wiring and plumbing, then drop it inside my shell.

Also, I order parts the other way around now. I order the doors/windows/hatches before the shell. That way if the manufacturer no longer makes certain dimension components, they'll still fit my shell, and match my interior.

For example - I know where my internal water tank needs to go - then I know where my water fill needs to go - then I know what size hatch can fit around the water fill - then I know what cutouts I need in my shell

The hardest part is trying to get it right the first time - nearly impossible. And you want to do as few major reworks as possible.

An example build might be like:
  • Design interior and hatch locations using sketchup make 2017
  • Find out hatches aren't manufactured in the right sizes to fit design
  • Redesign interior
  • Nearly there, but can't fit water inlet
  • Redesign interior
  • Order hatches, doors, water and power inlets.
  • Find hatch no longer made in that size
  • Redesign interior for new hatch size
  • Now I have all my hatches and an interior design
  • Build interior
  • Order shell (if you're super confident order this while you're building the interior)
  • Shell arrives, glue it together, cut hatches/doors, glue in hatches doors
  • Drop in the interior
  • Quick and easy build with few headaches (hopefully!!)
Not sure if this is the right way to go, but it works for me.
 

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