Mitsubishi Montero Dash, Console, and Interior LED Bulb Replacement, Gen 2.5

jlocster

Explorer
On the center console, t5 for the shift indicator, t10 for the cigarette lighter surround, t5 for the ashtray
 
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plh

Explorer
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plh

Explorer
20160227_155423.jpg

This is my '93. Negative polarity marked by the white stripe on the socket. I bet I had the cluster out 10 times before every LED was in with the correct polarity. Hopefully this helps a few folks.


EDIT: In photo lower most right hand LED (T10) is in 180 degrees off rotational location as shown. Didn't notice it until fully dark outside. Also as has been mentioned the "Low Fuel" light is lightly dim all the time now. Will either add a resistor or just replace it with a regular bulb. Must have been one of the several burned out bulbs that were removed because it never illuminated at all ever before. I also did the 2 behind the heater controls today - they are a bugger.

The "Maintenance Required" LED is also permanently illuminated now. There wasn't a bulb in this spot before. I was reading in the FSM that the bulb should be pulled at 100K miles - just wondering if that is because the reset switch stops working at this point? or only because the "book" PM intervals stop being listed? Guess I'll be pulling the cluster out at least one more time....
 
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Monterado

Observer
Great write ups here.
Over the weekend I replaced all of the burned out bulbs with new LED's in my '98, removed all of the center console components, replaced the PS lower dash speaker, and removed the front passenger seat so that I could do a deep clean.

After all of this, my engine would not turn over. Lights and stereo worked, windows were slow moving when I rolled them up, and there was a clicking sound when I turned the key. My battery seemed dead.
So, I tried jumping it to no avail.

I returned and replaced my battery b/c the shop said it was only putting out 40 amps. Again, it would not turn over even w/ the new battery.(no more clicking tho) My headlights and interior lights started flashing like they do when the factory alarm starts misbehaving. I tried pressing and holding the little red button and starting. ( i do not have a working remote) No result. I disassembled the cluster to make sure the alarm button wasn't damaged. It looks fine, but I have noticed that it doesn't light up under any circumstance now.


I think my next step is to follow the alarm removal directions found here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/112366-Montero-Alarm-system-removal-Gen-2-5?highlight=remove+montero+alarm
I have always hated the factory alarm and it seems like now is the time to rip it out.

I have not replaced the PS front seat. Is there any reason to believe this would prevent starting? Is there any reason that replacing all of the LED's, replacing a speaker, or removing the seat would cause my battery to suddenly lose charge? I was starting and stopping the engine while I did the LED swap and was pretty surprised when I had a dead battery considering LED's are supposed to draw less.
 

DR1665

Gearheads United
Before you go the alarm removal route and risk further electrical system changes (adding complexity and potential tertiary faults to your no start situation), bypass the alarm. This is how those of us without key fobs or fictional valet switches do it...

Disconnect the battery.
Insert key, turn to on position. Leave it there.
Reconnect battery.

Yes. You will hear all the relays clicking and it will make your skin crawl every time you do it, but it deactivates the alarm. Try that first.
 

plh

Explorer
Great write ups here.
Over the weekend I replaced all of the burned out bulbs with new LED's in my '98, removed all of the center console components, replaced the PS lower dash speaker, and removed the front passenger seat so that I could do a deep clean.

After all of this, my engine would not turn over. Lights and stereo worked, windows were slow moving when I rolled them up, and there was a clicking sound when I turned the key. My battery seemed dead.
So, I tried jumping it to no avail.

I returned and replaced my battery b/c the shop said it was only putting out 40 amps. Again, it would not turn over even w/ the new battery.(no more clicking tho) My headlights and interior lights started flashing like they do when the factory alarm starts misbehaving. I tried pressing and holding the little red button and starting. ( i do not have a working remote) No result. I disassembled the cluster to make sure the alarm button wasn't damaged. It looks fine, but I have noticed that it doesn't light up under any circumstance now.


I think my next step is to follow the alarm removal directions found here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/112366-Montero-Alarm-system-removal-Gen-2-5?highlight=remove+montero+alarm
I have always hated the factory alarm and it seems like now is the time to rip it out.

I have not replaced the PS front seat. Is there any reason to believe this would prevent starting? Is there any reason that replacing all of the LED's, replacing a speaker, or removing the seat would cause my battery to suddenly lose charge? I was starting and stopping the engine while I did the LED swap and was pretty surprised when I had a dead battery considering LED's are supposed to draw less.
Did you happen to mess around with the shifter and possibly disconnect the neutral safety switch or move its adjustment? Jiggle the shift lever in and out of park.
 

Monterado

Observer
Before you go the alarm removal route and risk further electrical system changes (adding complexity and potential tertiary faults to your no start situation), bypass the alarm. This is how those of us without key fobs or fictional valet switches do it...

Disconnect the battery.
Insert key, turn to on position. Leave it there.
Reconnect battery.

Yes. You will hear all the relays clicking and it will make your skin crawl every time you do it, but it deactivates the alarm. Try that first.
Thank you. Much appreciated. I agree that adding an additional complexity is not ideal. This did the trick. I wish I would have known this trick a long time ago.
 
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Monterado

Observer
When I removed the two main parts of my center console to swap out the ash tray and cig lighter LED's (1998 SR w/ winter pkg), I noticed that there were a couple of wiring harnesses that were never connected to anything. One harness was tied up behind the pair of blank switch plates located above the cup holders, and another harness was tied up beneath the part of the console that houses the gear shifters. Has anyone else noticed this, and do you know the intended use for them? Has anyone made use of these or know where they go?
My best guess is that the factory made the same harnesses for all models, added the appropriate switches to match the trim package, and buried the unused portions in the trim.
 

Skidoo03

Member
So after doing this swap on all of my dash lights my low fuel light is stuck on even with a full tank, any ideas why that would happen?
 

plh

Explorer
So after doing this swap on all of my dash lights my low fuel light is stuck on even with a full tank, any ideas why that would happen?
I got the same thing. The circuit must use resistance of an incandescent bulb. Changed it back and its off.
 

jlocster

Explorer
***Observations***

When fitted with LEDs the Low Fuel, SRS, Parking Brake, and A/T Temp indicators stayed dimly lit even when the bulbs were supposed to be off. Those circuits apparently require the resistance of an incandescent to operate properly. Because of this I left incandescents in Low Fuel, SRS, and A/T Temp. However....using an incandescent in the A/T Temp indicator caused the LED in the Parking Brake indicator to turn off properly, so I left an LED in the latter indicator.
I had the same issue...
 

LibertyFLS

Observer
Thank you for this writeup, it really takes time and a good heart to bother doing this to the benefit of us all. Did my shifter light yesterday thanks to your step by step guide.
 
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