Mitsubishi Montero 2005 Gen III - experience with a remanufactured engine



This portal and the posts helped me a lot while I made a decision to buy a Montero. Buying a Gen 3 with less miles was the objective and I was able to get one with 97K on it.

Got it checked from a mechanic before buying from the dealer(quotes KBB pricing ++) and he noticed some oil leak from the Valve Gasket and other then that it was just fine. Make sure to check the transmission and 4x4.

I did about 2K over a period of time and the only repair it threw at me was 02 sensor changed and got the fluids changed. I knew the timing belt had to be changed and was budgeting for it. Also had plans to get new plugs with that job.

When Bought 1.jpg

When Bought 2.jpg

Just copying and pasting from a post I wrote on - 3rd Gen Montero Questions post from offthepath
Yesterday was a nice and sunny Saturday and thought it would be a good time to go out for a weekend drive. So it was Texas hill country and about 200 miles for the drive. These are curvy roads but with 60 MPH speed limits. It was all going well and we were getting back to enjoy the Saturday evening. After a heavy lunch, I don't know why(maybe laziness), I happened to start using the cruise control(CC) and yes, this is a hilly area.

So as we were approaching a hill, the CC revved up heavy to control the speed(I didn't feel a downshift). I felt there was some loss in power but things were ok after that. We drove about a mile to a 4 way intersection with a STOP sign. While braking here I felt the CC was still trying to power the vehicle. Then we stopped. The A/C was on at full blast and I pressed the accelerator and the we wouldn't move. About 20 seconds and put off the a/c to notice the engine stopped. I restarted the engine and immediately felt a noise coming from the engine and the car moved with resistance to a place nearby(luckily there was some shade for the 100F temp).

I got out and thought let's simply give it some time. After 10 minutes, tried to start but the same noise and the engine stalled. It was a Saturday and that place had not internet. Walked into a local Bar and asked help. Great people, they managed to have a local mechanic arrive. So all this took about 30 minutes. He then asked me to start the engine and I did. He checks the oil(no problem) and he also check the Engine oil light(no problem). The engine started this time but there was that noise. Our man, makes a sad face and says, it's bad.

So he says the Rod bearing's gone.

He didn't even charge me and I thanked him for the help. Managed to get it towed home where it stands now. Got up in the morning today and managed to record the noise for cold start and when the engine was warmed up. Here they are

I got many responses to my queries and although they were helpful, a visit to 3 mechanics confirmed that it was a bottom end issue. Why --? There was oil and the engine oil light works fine and it never lit. So their rational explanation was, the previous owner might have missed oil changes and the damage was already done earlier and it was an issue of time.

I still think(X-Files), type of an issue might be the reason and there is a similar mention here

“Right before the motor went out I was pulling a boat with cruise control on, when I was approaching an overpass the motor raved up like it does with cruise control on, but when I got to the top of the overpass the motor didn''t slow down like it should have so I had to stop it myself. An that''s when the motor spun a rear main bearing.”

That aside, what do you do? You paid prime $$$'s and you've used it for 3K miles and you have this issue. My choices were try a used engine or go for a remanufactured engine.

I don't want to reason but I went with a Remanufactured engine and it's done about 1.3K since installation. In this thread I wanted to share my experiences as they happened when I decided to get a remanufactured motor to an ongoing thread. Wish me luck…
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New member
Man... that sucks. Looks like a beautiful '05 Monty, really like that blue color. I've been in the market for a new Montero since I lost my '98 in a wreck a few months ago. Have been really contemplating a upgrade to Gen 3. Totally feel for your situation... let us know how it goes!


Once again sorry to hear about the problems, that sure is disappointing after finding a clean and low milage vehicle. Great attitude and way to deal with the problem though.

Did you install the engine yourself? What kind of warranty did the new engine come with?


Thanks y'all. So once I decided to go the reman engine way, time for some research on reman engines in the market ... This took about 2-3 days. I then locked down the vendor and place a call. They want the old engine back so this has a core value which is reduced from the price. I paid extra $$'s for this warranty - Our No Fault Warranty

5 Year Unlimited Miles on Remanufactured Products
No Fault Replacement - Product Guaranteed Regardless Of Failure
Increased Labor Rate - Up To $100.00 Per Hour
Towing Coverage - Up To $150.00
Rental Coverage - Up To $35.00 Per Day Total Of 10 Days
Diagnostic Time - Up To 2 Hours

The engine was delivered to my mechanic in a couple of days and this was fast. The motor comes timing tuned(so new timing kit and waterpump).

packaging 1.jpg

packaging 2.jpg

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packaging 4.jpg


New member
I reman my own engines :p

But seriously, share your source. Some people might benefit. Also, i hear the the 3.8 is very oil change strict, it it true? Eg; You MUST change the oil on time or else.


@JDZL + @AlexGanenco == I thought it's best not to sure the name till I do the break in period(about 3K miles) but will ping you the name personally. I also plan to post my experience on the installation and the other factors to consider plus problems.

@Bulmynjo - Sir, I appreciate your statement and respect you for that. I simply cannot afford what you stated. Thanks.


Post - Got the Reman Motor -- Next Steps

OK, So the motor is at the mechanics shed. What are the next steps?

Bcos my previous breakdown still didn't have any confirmed explanation and I needed to give back my previous motor to the reman firm, I did some research to make sure the breakdown influences if any are also replaced along with the motor. The reman firm also sent in a booklet detailing the steps for the installation so that was of help for sure--


turns out that my motor left mount was broken and got that changed

Faulty Motor Mount 2.JPG

Install 1.jpg

Install 3.JPG

Install 4.JPG

Install 5.jpg

Install 2.jpg

Install 6.JPG

Install 7.jpg


I'll be sharing the experience after my mechanic made the installation and asked me to drive away in another post.


This is where I got my engine - and sharing the vendor name as the engine break in has been successful with no problems till now.

It's been about 3000+ miles since this engine was installed and things are going fine. There were a few hiccups just after the install like the service engine light coming on but these were resolved as a leak was noticed and sensors played. You would need to make sure that the problems are resolved immediately.

Got the oil changed again after first 300 miles and then 3000. Now this will stay for the next 5000 miles. This is 5W/20, non synthetic. Till this break in period, I never kept the speed and RPM constant for long times. The longest continuous long drive I did till this time was for about 200 miles.
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Close to 2 months since the last post. The new engine completed 6K miles and this time tried on a proper 4x4 Trail.

Joined a group of TJ's and 4Runner's. This was my first real experience taking it to 4LLC and moving from Auto to manual gearing. This helped a lot though 4LLC 1st gear needs some learning with the throttle. Was also able to to the salute and the ATC worked when I bumped the throttle a bit when only 2 wheels( 1 front and 1 rear) had traction.

It performed really well. However it was very clear that I need to get some a better clearance. I have Michelin LTX ~31"(P265/65R17) and there is a lot of traction so tire change is not happening now.

Another thing I realized was that the suspension needed to be improved so new Strut's ( they say the spring generally stay - I have a 2005 model). I'm trying to gain advice on the choices I have now:

Easy option 1. Coil Spacers and KYB Struts - Can we add coil spacers for a raise on a Gen 3? If yes, anyone here with experience?, then go with a 33" tire later

Option 2: 2" OME lift - I plan on adding armor and possible a bumper on the front. Does this system maintain it's life or does it start sagging?

Option 3: KYB struts with OME springs - Will the KYB struts be compatible with the change in travel the new springs bring?

Other options are also welcome. Kindly suggest.


Lovells springs made in Australia are popular, discussions also here on our forum.
Edit, found it:

Write-up from pajero club here:

I also priced Lovells through Kollar Racing in Florida (GTO parts importer and Lovells dealer here in USA)
Complete set delivered pricing although these are not necessarily the most lift:
These are raised standard duty and the most popular.
$409.00 Shipped to the US or Canada
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Thanks Normal Dave for your suggestions -- So looking at this option.

Option 1 -->


Query: Is this the best spring for a gen 3 or are there other options?

Front Strut Install Kit ( might be required for the OME too) -

Wheel Spacers as track narrows with more lift on IR/FS suspension?

Query: Is this required and Gen 3 being hub centered?

Bilstein 5100 or 4600

Question is part #
2 of Bilstein 24-062725 4600 Series Shock Absorber
2 of Bilstein 24-062718 4600 Series Shock Absorber

Query: What are the options on the 5100 or where is a good place for me to search the part #?

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