Mission Dawn Patrol

volcomsurfer

Adventurer
already ahead of you on the screen, great idea.

Awesome build! Looking really great as you finish it up.

As I plan to build my bed platform I am asking several folks the height of theirs to get an idea how it works out. What is the height at the top of the mattress to the floor? Do you have issues sitting on the mattress and say putting in shoes? And last, where did you get that mattress? Thanks for all of the ideas!

It's a 6" latex mattress. I bought it off of ebay. http://www.ebay.com/usr/latextoppers

I'm 6'1" I can lay down on it diagonally and sprawl out. The width is just about 6 foot so I can lay flat if i bend my knees a bit. Height wise, you can sit up on it, but I have to slouch a bit. If I'm going to sit for any extended period of time I have a pillow I lean against. I can sit all the way up leaning against the wall. I made it this high so I could fit the toilet underneath the bed. Everything was built around having a toilet lol.

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toyotech

Expedition Leader
Just when I didn't think it could get any better. Love the build and the custom repurposes items/mods. My type of build!! Being a tad different and unique


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
already ahead of you on the screen, great idea.



It's a 6" latex mattress. I bought it off of ebay. http://www.ebay.com/usr/latextoppers

I'm 6'1" I can lay down on it diagonally and sprawl out. The width is just about 6 foot so I can lay flat if i bend my knees a bit. Height wise, you can sit up on it, but I have to slouch a bit. If I'm going to sit for any extended period of time I have a pillow I lean against. I can sit all the way up leaning against the wall. I made it this high so I could fit the toilet underneath the bed. Everything was built around having a toilet lol.

bedheight_zps7xrs0pao.png

Thanks for the reply! That helps. I am in the same boat but I have three items I am trying to account for. A 17" Chuck box, 19" water cans, and up to a 21" tall fridge. Trying to determine if I want to fit all three or not.
 

volcomsurfer

Adventurer
Only advice I can give is just start throwing stuff in there and building. I changed the design so many times and most of the changes happened AS I was building it. Just put the stuff in and move it around.
 

Surffj62

New member
You should post up what Mtns your at - "Tour dates" A Basin (Arapahoe) has a spot called the beach in the lower parking lot- great party scene on a sunny day. Have to get there early for spot. Dogs welcome to run around before and after opening. I'll buy beer for a fellow ERAU grad, snowboarder, surfer and van man!
Thanks for all the ideas!
 

DzlToy

Explorer
From my notes:

3M Automotive Thinsulate is a hydrophobic, non-woven, non-linting polymeric micro fiber. Therefore, it does not attract or hold moisture and is ideal for automotive and marine applications. I simply spray glued it to the back of the door and interior panels. Air spaces were retained (in the case of the doors, the material is inside of the plastic moisture barrier, it's not in direct contact with the exterior metal. Resonance damping materials have their place and do have a significant effect on noise caused by vibration in metal panels. The problem is that covering more than 25% or so of the panel is essentially a waste and doesn't provide any additional dampening. Varied resonant panel frequency is the goal.

You can get Thinsulate from Heinvs@impact3d.com, easy to work with and ships same day. I believe that is someone on this board, but I do not have a screen name.
 
Last edited:
From my notes:

You can get Thinsulate from Heinvs@impact3d.com, easy to work with and ships same day. I believe that is someone on this board, but I do not have a screen name.

The EBay link in the OP's post above yours has the sellers name listed as Hein so I assume the email you have and that store are the same person.

Glad you both posted this. I had only found thinsulate in huge rolls that was way more than I needed and could afford.
 

volcomsurfer

Adventurer
So I'm getting really close. In the final stretch.

I made a little box that fits under my bed for all my clothes.
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I also bought two big totes that fit perfectly in the back. One's going to be a bunch of random stuff and my summer clothes and the other is going to be my motocross stuff. My helmet and boots fit perfectly right next to it too. Packed tight.

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I found a hitch extension at HF for cheap so I figured I'd test it out and see what it's like. It would be nice to be able to open the back fully with the bike on there. However I think it might be a bit much. Maybe if I'm cruising around places softly and planning on opening the back often. :dunno: What's your guys' opinion?

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Started working on the plumbing and heaters too. I have an Espar Airtronic D2 and a Hydronic D5S. An easy start 7-day timer and a digi max D1000. I'm not sure which unit will go to which controller yet. I have a high altitude sensor too that needs to go in-line with the Airtronic. I'm not sure if the Hydronic needs one too or not. But it came with no literature and the literature that's online is outdated. I assumed you just connect like colors, but apparently that's not the case.

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So the water heating system uses a heat exchanger. I have to tie into the coolant lines and run them back to the Hydronic unit. The unit heats up the coolant and runs it through a heat exchanger then back to the engine. This way I can heat up my block and my water system at the same time. It's passive as well so I shouldn't need the heater if I've been driving and the engine is hot. Furthermore, I won't need to plug in the block heater in cold weather.

Tying into the coolant lines.
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inline valves
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The mounted heater and pump
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Back to the heat exchanger. The water lines go straight up through the floor.
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The pump and accumulator.
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Mwilliamshs

Explorer
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What hose? Silicone? Like? Hate? $? I've been trying to decide whether I'd rather mount the heat exchanger up-front and run potable lines to the rear (more pex) or mount the exchanger in the back and run coolant lines to the rear (more hose). I think extending the engine coolant loop would be my second choice at this point. A leak would suck in either system but losing coolant could be a lot worse than losing some drinking water and the longer the hoses and more fittings added, the more potential leak points.

p.s. surely you've moved that hose and secured it away from that shackle and its bolt, yeah?
 

volcomsurfer

Adventurer
going to rock the mx hauler in stock form?

or do you still plan on beefing it up?

It's pretty stout stock. I'll run a chain around it with a lock and probably use two ratchet straps instead of one. The only modification I did to it was that the rear bolt hanger that goes through the footpeg didn't have a great place to clamp to and it'd be on the outside. So I had to drill a hole and run the bolt through like the other side. Not sure if I had the concept wrong or what, but it took 3 seconds. Oh and I'm adding a 3rd taillight that connects to the trailer connection since the bike kinda blocks the lights a bit.

Got a bit more done today. It got dark before I could snap some pics of it all done. There's one leaky connection at the thermal valve because the o-ring isn't sitting right, but other than that the system works pretty good. I bought some post hangers that I'm going to put by the valves up front by the shackle.

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