Might be getting a TJ, what to look for.

NEIA Nomad

Member
This is a tale of a 97 Jeep TJ. End of the month my buddies driving it up here and might be leaving it with me on a longer term basis. He got it a couple months back to make some fancy custom off road truck out of it but then found out his Barbie Jeep car thing was a pile and ended up buying a brand new Jeep to spend lots of money "upgrading"

This is coming with a bunch of accessories some of which I probably won't use, but I might. I don't plan to do anything too terribly outlandish since it seems the Brute kit looks to be discontinued... sad face.

So the known bad, it has 220k miles, but it's a four liter and everything I've seen on them says they are tough as nails and may as well be made by Toyota. (I miss my FJ62) It does have a small oil leak somewhere that he has not found yet possibly the oil pan gasket. Otherwise it is a solid motor. The rear frame behind where the lower link attaches is rusted his brother is putting the patch kit in currently. He is also going to be changing out the brakes on all 4 corners.

I know the guy, hes not going to sell me a pile of junk with something wrong with it, but that's if he knows that it has something wrong with it. So what should I look at on these what are known trouble spots or signs of bigger issues on the TJ series.

It is going to have an aftermarket rear bumper with the tire swing on it and I'm probly getting rid of his aftermarket front bumper because it will take a winch, but it will not cover enough of the front end to mutilate an Iowa deer.

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Justincredible

Adventurer
It's a 25 year old Jeep with 220,000 miles on it. Anything wrong with it at this point is from wear.
Sounds like you've already looked it over for rust, so other than that inspect the fluids, belts, hoses, gaskets, and anything else rubber (maybe the body mounts) and enjoy.
 

billiebob

Well-known member
The only issue is rust.

Oil leaks are chronic and common, seldom the oil pan, more likely the 2 piece rear main seal. If you can ignore it it will never be an issue. You will never lose a measurable amount of oil between oil changes.

Mechanically they are bullet proof, there are wear items like u-joints, calipers, etc, but all in TJs are very well built. Parts easily accessible..... maybe even economical, definitely easily serviceable.

Weaknesses, until ya start a Jeep build the Wrangler is a very reliable vehicle. The just empty every pocket starts with bigger tires. Put 35s on it and the weakest component breaks. If you can live with 31s on an unlifted platform, TJs are bulletproof. Your only issue will be wear items and maintenance like every other 4x4 out there.

My first Wrangler was the first Wrangler, an '87 with the dreaded 3.07s and the Peugeot 5 speed. I ran it with 33s for 300K miles, In 16 years it cost me $1K a year maintaining it, including a new engine, tires and depreciation. Best buy ever. It never broke down in 20 years.

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I've had an LJ built it for 35s, sold it 6 months later for a profit. I hated the ride and hated the longer wheelbase. My TJR got 33s, a 2" lift, an AEV HighLine, 4" lift, the back to 33s, stock suspension and 33/10.50s with the Highline. If you need bigger rubber, look at a HighLine before a lift.

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The Highline will not add stress to the rest of the driveline, no need for a slip yoke eliminator, and you get to keep the TJs lower center of gravity. Run factory spec shocks. Sure the initial expense of a HighLine body kit looks more expensive but overall, the HighLine will cost you lots less.

PS, your '97 gets a higher break over angle too. Mine all came with the shovel skid pan.

My miled out "05 TJR is in the shed. Its HighLine will get painted and installed on the new low mile "06 TJR this summer... maybe.

I'm back on skinny 31s and loving them. 33s best was 17mpg. 31s do 22mpg easy.

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Don't listen to the naysayers about bad components like transmissions or axles or...... an idiot can break anything.

7.50R16 tires vs Stock Rubicon tires, 5mpg gain plus better ride too.
8 pounds lighter per tire, $40 per tire less, 20% more miles per tire too.

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And the new TJR, fully stock and 60K miles.... ready for work.... I drive it 24K miles a year, towing 2K# for at least 10K miles.

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just empty every pocket

the only issue is rust
 
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billiebob

Well-known member
A junkyard 44 is the better option.
no, anything rebuilt beats the jinx yard. Good luck finding a buy on a 44. A used Ford Explorer 8.8 is a good buy if you break yer D35. But I always wonder, if you can break a D35, you can likely break anything.
 

NEIA Nomad

Member
I was going between 31" and 33" tires so that is good information to have. Also good to know about the axle. I know what the front axle is because I put one of those underneath my S10 but I wasn't sure what they had in the back I didn't plan on lifting it because I don't see the need even with what I plan to do to make it taller.

If it does and that being the rear main I will just leave it till rebuilt time. My old Toyota was nicknamed the bio hazard because it was notorious for leaving its mark everywhere it went so I'm no stranger to checking the level.
 

billiebob

Well-known member
I was going between 31" and 33" tires
I think either tire will work fine with a stock TJ. 33s will have clearance issues articulating. A 2"lift should resolve that but a 2" HighLine will make a statement..... and be less stressful on the driveline. My gas mileage boost I think relates more to a much lighter tire than diameter. The ride improvement due to a lighter unsprung weight was incredible. I used to watch for and dodge cracks, rocks, potholes. Now I ignore them. I'm a car guy nerd, have been for 50 years, I rank unsprung weight as the number one ride and mileage factor, Skinny profile as number two. Floatation tires ie the 10.50, 12.50 widths are great in the dunes, maybe great in mud. But if you don't need "floatation", or if you drive at 26psi more than 5psi, or if you drive thru slush and standing water, you want a pizza cutter. I love passing big 4x4s in a winter storm, cutting thru the slush on the centerline and coming back in as they are white knuckled trying to keep those wide boots in the ruts. There are very few places 33x12.50s will out perform a skinny tire on a Wrangler.
 

Bobs85Reny

New member
To bad AEV discontinued the Highline kit. It is something I have always wanted for my LJ. Once and a while a used one will pop up for sale but the asking price on them is usually more than the kit went for new. I wish someone would come out with one. I know there are a few knock off fiberglass highline hoods and you could go with highline flat fender options but its just not as clean looking as the AEV kit.
 

billiebob

Well-known member
Stock
stock.jpeg

HighLine
hiline.jpeg
Winking
winking.jpeg

PS, the AEV highline is incredibly simple. It uses the stock inner fender adding a 2" spacer. The turn signal corner is the only kinda custom piece. The rest is easily fabricated.
 

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