Mercedes Overland Building/Tuning

RoamIt

Well-known member
Looks to be in good shape. Here's a line up of rigs in various stages of completion.
 

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RoamIt

Well-known member
Per the advice I've received here, I did start inquiring about super single rims from Europe. While the 22.5" 10 hole rims are very easy to find here in the states, I was concerned that the offset would be a challenge to get right as the purveyors of said wheels probably will just give me a blank look when I tell them what the wheels are for and ask if the offset will work.

I was sent this pic from a wheel guy in Europe that said 120mm offset works. (Of course, I still need the backspace to work as well) Can anyone confirm 120mm offset works for the heavy SK chassis?
 

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RoamIt

Well-known member
The drivers seat is a ISRI, which I'm not familiar with, don't know if it's a 'good' air seat? But they are expensive when I Iooked them up.
It will have to do for now either way.

(and I'm totally putting AMG emblems on it now!!)
 

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grizzlyj

Tea pot tester
The seat may be sprung and no air?

The biggest limit to maintaining momentum on our Mog with 200ish hp and at 9500kg was the big gap between 7th and 8th. If I had bought an overdrive it would have been much better (I assume) to be able to have seven and a half. But going from our previous slightly less hp mog to that was much better. The folks saying 170hp is ok have a very different transmission and ratios to our Mog, so hp and overall ratios may not be the only issue.

From a racing point of view surely adding hp would be secondary to saving weight? Same here I am sure. No hottubs!

Bill Caid went from a Mog to 1017A and put super singles on the back (at 20"). I think they were U500 rims on backwards? http://www.billcaid.com/index.html
 
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RoamIt

Well-known member
The seat may be sprung and no air?

The biggest limit to maintaining momentum on our Mog with 200ish hp and at 9500kg was the big gap between 7th and 8th. If I had bought an overdrive it would have been much better (I assume) to be able to have seven and a half. But going from our previous slightly less hp mog to that was much better. The folks saying 170hp is ok have a very different transmission and ratios to our Mog, so hp and overall ratios may not be the only issue.

From a racing point of view surely adding hp would be secondary to saving weight? Same here I am sure. No hottubs!

Bill Caid went from a Mog to 1017A and put super singles on the back (at 20"). I think they were U500 rims on backwards? http://www.billcaid.com/index.html

I don't know for sure if it's an air seat or not, saw the buttons and I presumed. I did look at Irsi site and the ones with the 'bellows' bottom that I actually clicked on were air.

I do want to save weight, but at the same time, I need to this to be a 'home' as much as possible. My race car is pretty stripped out, but I don't drive it daily! I plan on traveling the world (I hope) so it's going to have a decent bathroom, clothes washer, etc. I've been told that I'll probably be around 20K, and I believe it since it's from someone with a similar build as I'm planning.

Thanks for the wheel tip, just went to Bills site, doesn't call out specifically which wheels he used that I saw. I did shoot him an email.

I can figure it out when I get the truck, but certainly want to reach out to people who have first hand knowledge.
 

Joe917

Explorer
The Heffalump has an ISRI air seat. A small plastic component failed after the first year we has the truck, the seat was probably about 18 years old. I capped off the air supply and quite honestly preferred the ride without the air seat operating.
 

Joe917

Explorer
Those automatic chains might be fine for road use but will be no help in mud or deep snow. They just spin chain under the wheel to aid traction.
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
Those automatic chains might be fine for road use but will be no help in mud or deep snow. They just spin chain under the wheel to aid traction.
Yes, I could see that. I'm not sure they would be practical at all with super's.
 
ISRI air seats are great in my U500NA, it came with them.

I seem to recall from many long threads on Benzworld that although the 170hp OM366LA has a turbo, there’s mechanical upgrades like the under piston oil cooling squirters that need to be upgraded or added to safely go to 210 or 240hp. Let alone 300. But I don’t pay 100% attention because I have a 906LA.
I will parenthetically add that I had a turbo shop in Quebec work on my spare ECU. Supposedly very experienced with MB truck/900 series ECUs. All I really wanted was the Euro 3 setup with timing 4-5 deg advanced and very modest hp increase from EPA 04 260hp to Euro 3 286hp, for much desired 5% decrease in consumption. I would do unmentionable things if it is 10% better. I actually had to tell the guy several times (in my high school French) that I didn’t want 300+ hp. So I ended up with supposed 290. And I installed EGT and will observe it for 1000s of miles before daring to switch ECU to the modified one.

Ask the question on Benzworld, there’s many more denizens that can give exact answers to that sort of question.
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
I seem to recall from many long threads on Benzworld that although the 170hp OM366LA has a turbo, there’s mechanical upgrades like the under piston oil cooling squirters that need to be upgraded or added to safely go to 210 or 240hp. Let alone 300

This engine is a late model OM366LA. Engine code 356999, with the intercooled turbo, Its 240hp now. I do believe it has the mechanical upgrades.

Thanks for the reminder about Benzworld, I have been there, but not very much. Need to dig deeper.
 

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