Mercedes 1222A.. The beginning!

Sitec

Adventurer
Hi Setic,

How does the 220hp drive on the road? Lack of power? Mine seems very weak...
Hi ErnestW. You describe the 220hp V6 very well. Ours has the later OM441 and it won't win any awards for speed either. On the highway I can keep up with trafic no prob but on hills it dies away very quickly. The older NG trucks had the earlier OM421 (rounded rocker covers instead of boxy rocker covers) which always sounded like someone rattling a can of bolts! I looked at fitting the turbo and intercooler from my donor truck engine which is also an OM441, but I've been advised the internals of the turbo intercoled engine are very different.
 

ErnestW

New member
Hi ErnestW. You describe the 220hp V6 very well. Ours has the later OM441 and it won't win any awards for speed either. On the highway I can keep up with trafic no prob but on hills it dies away very quickly. The older NG trucks had the earlier OM421 (rounded rocker covers instead of boxy rocker covers) which always sounded like someone rattling a can of bolts! I looked at fitting the turbo and intercooler from my donor truck engine which is also an OM441, but I've been advised the internals of the turbo intercoled engine are very different.
Mine won't even keep up with traffic, going nice behind a oversize crane though...I haven't got time to look at it yet... Internally could be all new design, especially ne piston valve etc. However you still can fit aftermarket turbo to almost all engines, just some won't last. Normally a low pressure turbo won't hurt too much but won't give too much either.
Just came across some scania 4x4 340hp trucks on Pickles.....did not get approval for any budget....

I will wait you finish yours then I will start my conversion...haha watch and learn.
 

Sitec

Adventurer
Little to report here... Been pretty wet, cold and windy so motivation has been lacking. I've been doing the mundane jobs like insulating!

Body mods 127.jpg

The time consuming bits are the infills in by where the beds will be.

Body mods 128.jpg

Next job is to clad the inside of the rear lockers. Once that's done I will wire the roof for the downlights, insulate that, and then fit the 10mm thermal bridge layer.
 

Sitec

Adventurer
Trying to remember what has to go where and if it'll all fit etc makes for some interesting thought process's of an evening! Over the weekend, I managed to fit the breather hoses for the seperation toilet. The upright pipe to the right is the feed conduit for the solar power lines.

Body mods 129.jpg

I have the toilet 'intake' being fed from the weatherproof fuel filler point. I figured it would be better here than straight out under the truck. Not only that, there's a wheel under the toilet! :)

Body mods 130.jpg

Next up will be the drain pipe system for the sinks, washing machine and shower.
 

Sitec

Adventurer
The painter has visited, and a plan has been hatched. We discussed painting the body off, and then fitting it, but have decided that it should be refitted and we'll tackle the job as one. This is happening in the next 8 weeks, so this has meant I've had to get my butt into gear and finish a few things! The grey water tank is in and plumbed all bar the connection. The first water pump and associated hoses and wiring are in, and the connection points (power and water) are also in, along with a 24v connection from the truck to the hab box for 24v to 24v charging. I also need to fit the External Air Con unit onto the body and run the hoses through to the head unit. The 240v power supply has been also run for the external unit. No doubt there's something I've forgotten which will then be a nightmare to fit but we'll find out soon enough!!

Several were curious on how I get the body onto the truck without the use of forklifts or cranes... Well, here's how...

Body mods 131.jpg

I've made the legs this time, so I can move the truck about as needed. I plan to slide the body right out directly above the truck, then fit up the Air Con external unit and piping. Once that is done then I'll lower it onto the chassis. Here's how I drag the body across the rails... Good old ratchet straps pulling sliders 2 clicks at a time!!

Body mods 132.jpg
 

Sitec

Adventurer
Next was to make sure that the truck fitted under the temporary frame. Even though it looks like there's loads of room the rear wheel carrier was very close. Close enough that the front wheels had to be on planks to get the rear carrier under the frame.

Body mods 134.jpg

Here are my final colour choices. The red will be for small things like the badge on the front grille and my logo on the side.

Paint final 1.jpg

Here's the codes for anyone who's considering a similar colour plan.

Paint final 2.jpg
 

Sitec

Adventurer
One of the last jobs to do before refitting the Hab Box to the chassis was the Air Con. First I refitted the external AC unit so I could fix the hoses and power supply between it and the internal unit. With new flex hoses I had made this week insulated, I threaded these, a bower supply and a drain hose up the access duct to where the internal unit will be.

Body mods 135.jpg

With the flex hoses, power and drain in roughly the right place, I was able to work back to the external unit.

Body mods 136.jpg

With the flex hoses and power routed to the eternal unit, I can then remove this again until I get the Hab Box positioned above the chassis in approx the right place. I'll then refit the external AC unit for the last time, connecting the flex hoses and power supplies.

Body mods 137.jpg

More to follow as it happens!
 

Sitec

Adventurer
That it does Ian. The first trip and it'll be covered in dust and scratches! :)

Progress today... Wifetec helped me get the AC back off and refit the freshly painted top section of the fold out steps, then it was back under with the truck. I had calculated the height required for the truck to clear the temporary frames... This necessitated the front wheels being on blocks for the spare wheel mast top to go under the first temporary frame. However, I'd forgotton about the step up in the side skirts at the gas locker! 40mm too high!! Some quick thinking had a ratchet strap around the front left shock absorber, and the front left tyre down to 30 psi! The locker slid under the temporary frame with mm to spare!

Body mods 138.jpg

It was then on to some interesting jacking and blocking to allow the removal of the temporary frame and lowering of the body! Here it is with approx 150mm left to go. I have a few things to do before it sits on its mounts.

Body mods 139.jpg

Next up is the final fit of the Air Con lower unit, connection of the grey tank, water fill and water inlet, plug in the two transfer sockets (24v from truck to living and supply to water pump 1 (and a few spare twin core supplies from the body)). I'll also hang the rubber infill strips on the body now as the accessis easier, before lowering the body into position next weekend.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
Trying to remember what has to go where and if it'll all fit etc makes for some interesting thought process's of an evening! Over the weekend, I managed to fit the breather hoses for the seperation toilet. The upright pipe to the right is the feed conduit for the solar power lines.

View attachment 673918

I have the toilet 'intake' being fed from the weatherproof fuel filler point. I figured it would be better here than straight out under the truck. Not only that, there's a wheel under the toilet! :)

View attachment 673919

Next up will be the drain pipe system for the sinks, washing machine and shower.
I use metal (not aluminum because it fatigues and breaks) cushion clamps for the copper.

If the cooper is for propane I home run each appliance so there are no Tees inside and all shut off vales go outside.

1629686276127.png
 

Sitec

Adventurer
I use metal (not aluminum because it fatigues and breaks) cushion clamps for the copper.

If the copper is for propane I home run each appliance so there are no Tees inside and all shut off vales go outside.
Hi Alloy.

I have used small metal clamps (one every 200mm) for the gas lines. Strangely, the gas fitter who's inspecting and signing off on my work has said that the rules here require a gas shut off tap to be as close to the appliance as possible, so it can be turned off quickly in an emergency. I have installed another tap externally, where the line enters the Hab Box, and all the lines have a clear rubber hose slid over them (this was the hardest part!). I also have some fancy gauge/shutoff valves thet go between the cylinder and regulator that automatically shut off if theres a drastic pressure drop. I think that's another RV requirement here in Oz. Cheers.
 

Sitec

Adventurer
So, I've made it to another large milestone this weekend... As of 7pm last night the Hab Box is back on the truck and bolted up (hopefully for the last time!). All underside services are connected, the sideskirt rubbers are fitted and I'm happy with the result.

Final leg 1.jpg

Here's a close up of the rear arch. The truck sits nice and level and the proportions have worked out well.

Final leg 2.jpg

I'm not looking forward to the next few weeks though... Stripping the cab external parts and sanding it back ready for painting!
 
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