DiploStrat,If you can bring a starter for a 1990 MB 917 AF, VIN: WDB 676 182 153 570 00 (I am shotgunning all the usual suspects.)
At this point, we are planning to tow to OEXPO today. That will allow us to do our Saturday and Sunday presentations. They tell us we can remain on site until Wednesday, by which time we may have resolved more options.
Hopefully, we will see you there.
Twenty years with a US vehicle in Africa and South America and now I am busted flat in the US.
Oh, and horror of horrors, the milk brother broke - no cappuccino this morning. Beloved Spouse is NOT pleased.
So sorry about your troubles, but we saw that you did make it to expo. I don't have a starter but I brought a few of my favorite local to me brews I can bring by (if that's allowed, is that allowed? I'm a first timer). I know a good beer is sometimes the only immediate remedy.
Unfortunately, while we can probably afford that much, spending $100k+ on just the base vehicle would set us back a couple years getting on the road. As nice as the U500NA is, and it would be our first choice if we didn't have a budget it's just unreasonable for us now. We'll be selling our house and using the equity to build this truck and pay off all our debt.If for some reason you want a USA registerable Unimog that can comfortably and relatively quietly cruise at 60mph (97kph), and is suitable for a camper, find and buy a U500NA. With proper options including EAS (electroautomatic shifting), long wheelbase, 33k GVW, CTIS, working gears, and at least H02 hydraulics. Hopefully with other useful options as well, like primary fuel filter/water separator.
I helped sell one here in Alaska this summer with all that stuff and very low mileage. I believe it sold for ~10% over new price, about $140k.
They are geared at 5.92 rather than 6.38, of course came with the UG100/8-9.57 gearbox with 0.736 8th gear.
So no need for expensive modifications. Portals hold 700ml; with temperature thermocouples it’s not too hard to monitor. Plus 14mm hex socket easily accessible to check fluid levels every 3-5k miles. Although I check anytime I see 2C difference between sides, or T>25-30C over ambient. You can also just check temperature with one of those Fluke IR “guns”.
Besides, other than CTIS, I actually prefer a standard transmission over the automated thing. I just think it has all the disadvantages of a manual but none of the advantages of an automatic.
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