never seen that one for my 2011.
Cool project, good work, let us know how you like the falken tires.Once all of the parts came in it came to get everything installed. Well I guess I should say almost all of the parts, for some reason the new sway bar links did not arrive at the same time as all of the other packages and weren't on my doorstop until the following Monday.
- Fox 2.0 Coil-Over IFP Shocks (2" Lift)
- Mevotech Upper Control Arms
- Fox 2.0 IFP Shocks
- Carli Variable Rate Rear Springs (1/2-1" Lift)
- Track Bar Relocation Bracket
- Sway Bar End Links
20180324_112424(1) by ebeiersdorfer, on Flickr
I decided to get to work on the front replacements first since they were more critical in getting my new tires installed. Everything started coming apart real issue and I didn't have any issues until it came time to separate the knuckle from the UCA. I spent around an hour with a couple good size hammers, blocks of wood, and dead blow hammers and couldn't get the thing to come apart. I was a bit surprised by this since after watch a few videos on YouTube no one seemed to have this much trouble. So I had to make a mid project run to the auto parts store to grab a forked ball joint separator. Even with the new tool, the drive side took another 20 minutes or so of pounding to finally release. After getting the knuckle to release it was no big deal to pull the stock coil-over out and prepare for the new one.
Stock vs Fox Coil-Over
IMG_3166 by ebeiersdorfer, on Flickr
IMG_3184 by ebeiersdorfer, on Flickr
After the new coil-over came the new UCA and it was time to bolt everything back together and torque according to spec. Moving on to the passenger side, the ball joint took maybe 15 minutes to get separated. Amazing how things work when you have all the tools you needed. I flew through the install on this side until it came time to get the UCA bolted back in. There was a bracket that was preventing the forward bolt from being able to attach the UCA up.
Everything was moving a lot slower than I had anticipated and I actually ended up throwing in the towel Saturday night. While researching later that night I found other people had removed the bolts from that bracket and pushed it out of the way to get the bolt in. Following their advice I did the same and was able to finish up the front rather quickly.
I moved onto the rear and everything started coming apart easier than the front. I did hit a snag though on the counter for the upper shock mounts; the mount is very close in proximity to the bed and I couldn't get anything back there to keep from rotating the nut. A couple of forums saved my bacon again, I found that folks had been taking an adjustable wrench and cutting about 2/3 of the handle off and they were able to get it back in there and break everything loose.
After getting the upper shock mounts undone everything else came apart pretty easily.
Stock vs Fox/Carli
20180325_165725_HDR by ebeiersdorfer, on Flickr
Putting everything back in wasn't too bad either, unfortunately though I did have to reconnect the stock sway bar end links and will have to come back to that later.
Shocks and Coils
20180325_190704 by ebeiersdorfer, on Flickr
I'm pretty happy with how things turned out from the lift. I ended up pretty close to level, if not maybe 1/4" to 1/2" of rake in the rear. I do wish there was a little more height in the rear, but my extra weight in the shell, Decked, and tools doesn't help in that area. So far I've really only had a chance to drive the truck on pavement, but it is a world of difference in how the truck handles. I used to have pretty bad body roll through turns and would get beat up pretty bad on even the smallest imperfection in the road. The new setup has corrected both of these issues and rides much nicer down the road in general. I can't wait to actually get off road with it and see how it rides.
20180326_153113 by ebeiersdorfer, on Flickr
20180326_153132_HDR by ebeiersdorfer, on Flickr
One thing is for sure, the stock 265/75r17 (31.6") tires looked way too small for the wheel wells now. Later the week I had ordered the lift I ordered a set of Falken WildPeak AT3Ws in 285/75r17 (33.8") and would get them installed the next week after an alignment.
Yeah I don't blame you, towing a camper is something you don't really want to mess around with in any 1/2 ton IMO.Looks great. I had considered the Eco 1500 but my camper is awfully close to the max tow rating of it. I ended up with a 2500, but am still enjoying your cab and bed upgrades.
Mostly lurking.....The reason I am posting is to ask if you had considered removing the back seat entirely. It seems like a lot of wasted space if you don't ever use it.
I'll let the OP address the topic in its entirety, but I just wanted to point out that math is not correct. You don't need to get 20% better mpg in order to "break even" with a fuel type that costs 20% more. There is not a direct corollary relationship between the fuel price difference and the mpg difference needed to "break even."Two things concern me: First of all, diesel fuel is anywhere between $0.30 and $0.60 per gallon more. At a worst case scenario of diesel fuel having a .60 premium over regular unleaded, that means diesel has about a 20% price premium. So that means I have to get 20% better MPG just to break even on fuel costs.
I think you misunderstood what I'm trying to calculate. I'm not considering the increased cost of the diesel engine because an (admittedly very cursory) search seems to indicate that there's not a lot of difference between the costs of the eco-diesel and the 5.7 hemi in the 2 - 3 year old used market where I am shopping, so the cost of the engine is actually not a factor that affects me. I am ONLY considering the cost of fuel and what I'm trying to figure is whether the decrease in fuel consumption is enough to offset the increase in fuel price.There is not a direct corollary relationship between the fuel price difference and the mpg difference needed to "break even."
Yes, the decreased fuel consumption of the diesel does offset the higher cost of diesel fuel. If you enter all the variables (annual mileage, fuel costs, combined mpg) into an excel sheet, you'll see that ecodiesel saves you money, despite the higher cost of diesel.I am ONLY considering the cost of fuel and what I'm trying to figure is whether the decrease in fuel consumption is enough to offset the increase in fuel price.
I'll let the OP chime in with his own experiences regarding the 3.0l ecodiesel. Generally-speaking, diesel maintenance (DEF, fuel filter, oil changes) will add another $80-$150 of annual maintenance.There is also the DEF and maintenance costs which have to be factored into the cost-per-mile to drive and I honestly don't know what those are, which is why I'm asking here .