M416 Lights/Wiring Help

[FreeKine]

Picked up a M416 yesterday - from what I can tell everything is original (except someone in the past cut a tail gate I'll deal with that in another post). It has the original lights on it and the 24V plug/wiring assembly. What is the consensus on how people are working with that or converting it? I'll be towing it with my FJ, which has a flat, 4-prong receiver.

Thanks!

 

[roadkill]

I believe the wiring can stay the same and all you need to change are the plug and the bulbs, but I could be wrong...

 

[Hill Bill E.]

I believe the wiring can stay the same and all you need to change are the plug and the bulbs, but I could be wrong...

Yep, you are correct.

The plug is Military, and won't fit any 'civilian' style plugs. The bulbs are 24V, and can easily be swapped for 12V.

You'll need two 1157 bulbs.

Fun part is the wiring, all the wires are black.

There are little number tags on them, but I don't recall what # is for what light.

Pretty easy to do though. Install the 12V bulbs, hook the 4 flat to the tow rig, cut the existing cord, and start matching up the wires.

Tail lights,
Left turn/stop,
Right turn/stop.


One reason a lot of folks swap in newer tail light assembies, is becuase they have side markers.

The Military housing do not. Most states require side markers, but being a 'vintage' trailer, you should be fine.

You can remove the black out bulbs.

 

[Robert Bills]

You can use the original wiring loom and graft in a 4-wire trailer plug. You can also use standard 12v bulbs in the military tail light assemblies. If you search the 1/4 ton trailer forum at g503.com, you should find threads discussing exactly how. It is a straightforward process if you have the military wiring diagram.

When I restored my trailer I used new wiring (as well as new bearings, bushings, seals, tires and any other wear parts on the trailer). I wanted to to start fresh because the existing wiring had been repaired many times in its 60 year history. The lights worked in my driveway, but I had visions of lying in the mud under my trailer in the middle of the night vainly chasing a short or bad ground. Been there, done that. One too many times.

I used 6-wire trailer cable and connectors so I could use my jeep's alternator to charge the group 31 battery in my trailer and have a ground wire from tow rig to trailer.

 

[lil_red_wagon]

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/pdf/trailer/m416.pdf

that link is a manual and it has a wiring diagram.

 

[FreeKine]

Thanks for all the input - much appreciated! The manual will come in very handy as well, thanks!

I wanted to to start fresh because the existing wiring had been repaired many times in its 60 year history. The lights worked in my driveway, but I had visions of lying in the mud under my trailer in the middle of the night vainly chasing a short or bad ground.

That's a good point, I might just take that route...

 

[lil_red_wagon]

well either way you go you now have a diagram to go off of

 

[shogun]

Folks;

You know, none of this stuff is exclusive to off-road/overland use. The mil surplus market is much more, uh, mature, than this group.

Pretty much every last nut and bolt is available for these trailers as NOS, used, or repro. Pick up a copy of Military Vehicles Magazine and browse the venders. Vintage Wiring of Maine has the complete wiring harness available, brand new, for not much $.

Personally I wouldnt be changing parts to civilian/car stuff, which will quickly wear out. Go OEM mil-spec. The Hudson connectors are the best, the light assy is tough, well-built, waterproof, and everything inside is shock mounted. They'll last longer than you. The cheapo pep-boys, jeep light assy is, well, cheap.

 

[lil_red_wagon]

I was debating on puttin the mil plug on my Cherokee. This is the only trailer I'll pull with it, and wont have to have the conversion plug for lights to work.