M416 - help with part identification/ideas needed for hitch replacement...

BrianAg95

New member
Long time reader, first time poster...

I picked up an M416 on March 13.. just before the lockdowns(lucky me)... so I am in the process of getting it ready for when we can get out and start using it... In so doing one of the things I want to do is put a multiaxis hitch on it. As I started looking at what was on it now.. I am a bit confused by what is already on it. So I am hoping I can leverage some of you for some feedback on what I am looking at, and what my options are.

My assumption is that that the lunette ring was removed and replaced with a 2x2 bar that was narrowed down and mounted just like the lunette ring would have been. (the mounting bolt/castle nut/spring etc.. is all there) This would theoretically allow the bar to rotate, like the lunette ring would. However then a mounting bracket for a jackstand was added at some point that connects the main frame with the bar, which eliminates the ability to rotate the bar. It has a standard 2" ball hitch on the end of the bar.

If I was to remove the jack stand bracket, would I have a rotating ball hitch? (Note it is screwed into the bar at the front, but welded onto the frame.) Is this really even a good idea? It wouldn't have full articulation, but maybe it would be good enough, not sure the vertical limits of a ball hitch, but left right and rotational would be good I suppose.

I was thinking I would have a receiver tube welded onto the top of the existing bar. This would let me use any multiaxis hitch on the market by sliding it into the receiver bar.

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old_CWO

Well-known member
Well that's an interesting way to go about it...

Your assessment seems right; it would be a rotating ball coupler. If it's sturdy maybe give it a try and see how it works for you? As you say, the vertical movement will be the limiting factor.

I prefer the receiver hitch solution as well, it just checks off a lot of boxes. If you're going to do that I would remove the lunette bracket with landing leg and sell it; they are still somewhat valuable. Have the hitch tube welded in between the draw bars. Gusset as required but leave the back clear so a longer tube can slide through for an adjustable length tongue.

Nice looking trailer, congrats.
 

77TLCFJ40

Member
It looks like they cut the original lunette just behind the ring and welded the 2X2 over it.

I’m not sure you would want a ball hitch to rotate like a lunette. The ball and socket already have range of motion like your shoulder or hip joints.

if you removed the ball hitch from the 2X2 and welded a 2.5 x 2.5 receiver hitch over it, you could slide in a receiver hitch lunette. Which could rotate if desired. Also, this is your chance to lengthen the tongue to clear your tailgate, spare tire swing out, etc.

It looks like a very nice trailer!
 

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BrianAg95

New member
I had really considered replacing the bracket.. with this... Receiver Tube Retrofit . The issue I run into is the existing jack mount bracket that was added? fabbed up? is welded to the frame by way of a C channel that was inserted into the frame and welded in front of the bolts to remove the lunette and landing leg bracket. The clearance is extremely tight and the C channel was even notched around the bolt heads, so getting a wrench onto those bolts is likely not possible without cutting that bracket off. Doable.. But Since I will be putting a roof top tent on this, I was probably going to make use of that jack bracket so I can adjust the level of the trailer when parked.

By the way if that 2x2 bar that tapers into the lunette mount was welded up, its gotta be the cleanest welds I've ever seen. The end with the hitch attached is hollow for sure, so maybe it is. But man it's smooth. Almost wonder if they made it that way for civilian agencies.
 

old_CWO

Well-known member
I had really considered replacing the bracket.. with this... Receiver Tube Retrofit . The issue I run into is the existing jack mount bracket that was added? fabbed up? is welded to the frame by way of a C channel that was inserted into the frame and welded in front of the bolts to remove the lunette and landing leg bracket. The clearance is extremely tight and the C channel was even notched around the bolt heads, so getting a wrench onto those bolts is likely not possible without cutting that bracket off. Doable.. But Since I will be putting a roof top tent on this, I was probably going to make use of that jack bracket so I can adjust the level of the trailer when parked.

That's nifty; I didn't know Scott sold those. It looks like a sanitary solution and the price isn't bad for what it is. I have bought several items from Compact Camping; great service and some cool one-off items for this hobby.

Having a tongue jack is a must have addition. I would still cut all that crap off and start fresh. You can mount a tongue jack cleanly somewhere else easily enough.
 

BrianAg95

New member
Ok, I have decided what I am going to do is simply remove the ball coupler (which is bolt on), and slide a receiver tube over the existing 2x2. I don't really want to weld the receiver tube to the 2x2 incase I ever change my mind, so I was going to drill it with the same holes currently used for the bolt on ball coupler. This is also going to lengthen the tongue about 16" (though I could shorten the receiver tube I got to whatever length I wanted), but I figured with my 4 door wrangler the extra length would make backing up easier.

Question: The bolt on couplers have an open side, I am assuming this allows the coupler to flex as it is being bolted on(not an engineer, just a shadetree mechanic). With only adding holes to the receiver tube that wont happen, so the clamping of the coupler wont really happen, it will only be the bolts. Should I be worried about this? I could add another bolt, since I have extra length. Or I could cut U shaped slices into one side of the receiver tube, so that it would flex in with the bolting and provide that physical connection. The receiver tube will be sliding over approx. 12-14" of the existing tube, if that has any bearing on the question.
 

old_CWO

Well-known member
We could get all scientific-y about fasteners in tensions or shear, yields and so forth, but come on. People are safely towing significantly more weight with nothing more than a single China made 5/8 hitch pin holding the entire thing together. You're starting to overthink it; throw some grade 8 bolts in there and call it a day.
 

BrianAg95

New member
HAHAHA! you're totally right!!!!! I tend to over engineer everything I make... thanks for bringing me back to reality!
 

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