M1101 1102 thread for conversion to 12V and matching Land Cruiser spares

JamesC

Adventurer
Hopefully these illustrate what you could use. Let me know if something specific would be useful

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i-dHhNCGp-L.jpg
 

MtnBubba

Observer
You kept the original axle when installing the new brakes and hubs? Now that you have used it, how do you feel about the suspension? Is it very stiff?

The reason I ask is I can get a 3200 lb axle with the electric brakes and hubs for not much more than just the brakes alone.
 

JamesC

Adventurer
You kept the original axle when installing the new brakes and hubs? Now that you have used it, how do you feel about the suspension? Is it very stiff?

The reason I ask is I can get a 3200 lb axle with the electric brakes and hubs for not much more than just the brakes alone.


Yes we kept the original axle. It feels oversprung unless completely loaded for a long camp but I don't have my water tank or tongue box, batteries, etc. on board as of yet so I'm expecting it to settle in nicely. We'll see :) If your loads are closer to that lighter axle capacity it may be worth the conversion. I don't think it would be terribly difficult.
 

MtnBubba

Observer
When you removed the front lift rings, are the castle nuts tack welded to the bolts? It looks like that may be the case with mine. If I keep them as is, I don't want to remove the CARC.
 

ajitsmith

New member
JamesC

I'm in the process of doing the same brake and hub swap. I've run into a problem with the parking brake. The dexter brake has mount and tab on the back side of it that does not work with end the existing parking brake cable. How were you able to get it to mount properly?


thanks in advance for any feedback
 

JamesC

Adventurer
Hello,

I had a quick method using u-clamps I had in a hardware drawer. I've since removed them due to a need for re-positioning the parking brake levers horizontal to allow tongue box installation which is still in progress. The dexter parking brake tab has a hole through which the u-clamp can be threaded, nut tightened and then the square crimp end of the parking brake cable captured.
 

MtnBubba

Observer
Has anyone tried removing the shocks from an M1101 in an attempt to improve the ride quality? (The XV-2 has no shocks)

I plan to replace the axle with a one rated for about 3,000 lbs, so it doesn't hop around so much when light loaded. I'm curious if removing the shock might lead to noticeable improvement?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

JamesC

Adventurer
Has anyone tried removing the shocks from an M1101 in an attempt to improve the ride quality? (The XV-2 has no shocks)

I plan to replace the axle with a one rated for about 3,000 lbs, so it doesn't hop around so much when light loaded. I'm curious if removing the shock might lead to noticeable improvement?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



I've read a lot of posts in various forums and haven't seen anyone remove them. I can definitely understand the need when lightly loaded. Even on our 1 ton diesel long bed it makes itself known when too light.
 

MtnBubba

Observer
I've read a lot of posts in various forums and haven't seen anyone remove them. I can definitely understand the need when lightly loaded. Even on our 1 ton diesel long bed it makes itself known when too light.

I'll remove them when I get a chance and see iI i can get a good evaluation without them.
 
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MtnBubba

Observer
The parking brakes were connected with ubolts for cable splicing but have been removed in preparation for the tongue box fab. We also have to relocate the parking bake handles and reorient them to horizontal under the box.

The ubolts are OK and secure but I'm hoping to find something cleaner once we have the length of the levers set.

I might have found a solution for the parking brake. Might still need a cable clamp on the frame for tension adjustment.
http://www.bmikarts.com/Clevis_p_1835.html

a7328fb9a2c3c7b48aa10f33b9b4987a.png
 

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