M1101 1102 thread for conversion to 12V and matching Land Cruiser spares

FMF

Adventurer
More excellent ideas to add to my trailer. Can you show more pictures of how you did the tongue extension and how you connected it to the air lift points? Did you slide in a section of square tubing and bolt it in place , then weld it to the tounge extension? Can you provide the measurements you used for each piece?
X2 please!

How much longer is the toung and any chance you could post detailed pics of the extension?
 

JamesC

Adventurer
Hi all,

Sorry I didn't get an alert on some of these replies, until FMF today?

Here are some more pictures with imperial measurements depicted on tape.

Overall view over head with new and old jack installed



Air drop loop weld (still functional but shackles removed for tongue box build



Another view from the other side




45" joint to joint

From here




To here



8" original draw bar to new tongue joint:





14" total from original draw bar to hitch receiver




Vertical stabilizer/skid to span the joints from original draw bar up through receiver





Threw the original (bulldog?) jack on to demonstrate the problem with the original location after new tongue. You can still rock it for the handle to clear but it's not as clean as it could be because of the pin instability allowing the jack to go beyond vert:





Solving the problem with a new ARK HD jack - this thing is INCREDIBLE

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/135855-Ark-Pak-Questions-and-Queries?p=1870460#post1870460


 

spikemd

Explorer
Wow, thanks so much for sharing. I bought an M1101 a year ago, but haven't put the time into the build yet. Now I have some inspiration! Nice, clean work.

Any issues with it being too wide for trails?
 

MtnBubba

Observer
I have a new to me M1101 and have a very similar plan for it. basically to make it into a big XV2.

Do you have any complaints about the drawbar length? I would like to lengthen it provided there are no negative consequences, for a few reasons.

- It would allow room to install a utility cabinet such as the one used on the XV2.
- it would reduce the tongue weight from 13-15% depending on how much I lengthen it (12-14").
- It would minimally reduce the angle the trailer sits at if I do nothing with the stock H1 size wheels.
- It may lengthen it enough to give a greater margin against a jack knife situation when backing.

Having not measured either exactly, from what I have been able to get from the web, I think lengthening it 14" would give it a drawbar distance to the bed equal to the XV2.

Did you do any engineering to come up with the "V" brace for your draw bar extension? How did you decide on the drawbar length you used?

What was your solution for installing the parking brakes horizontally?

Any suggestions are welcome.
 

JamesC

Adventurer
I have a new to me M1101 and have a very similar plan for it. basically to make it into a big XV2.

Do you have any complaints about the drawbar length? I would like to lengthen it provided there are no negative consequences, for a few reasons.

- It would allow room to install a utility cabinet such as the one used on the XV2.
- it would reduce the tongue weight from 13-15% depending on how much I lengthen it (12-14").
- It would minimally reduce the angle the trailer sits at if I do nothing with the stock H1 size wheels.
- It may lengthen it enough to give a greater margin against a jack knife situation when backing.

Having not measured either exactly, from what I have been able to get from the web, I think lengthening it 14" would give it a drawbar distance to the bed equal to the XV2.

Did you do any engineering to come up with the "V" brace for your draw bar extension? How did you decide on the drawbar length you used?

What was your solution for installing the parking brakes horizontally?

Any suggestions are welcome.


Good morning,

I went to an industrial welder friend for advice. He works on aerospace and oil rig structural welding - I think ~30yrs. He also does a lot of farm work given our community and that type of demanding use can not be underestimated, I have learned. I would have preferred the drawbar length to be longer, the XV is another 12 or 18" iirc but he and I went back and forth settling on this compromise. He was only willing to agree I was ok at this length if I included the vertical support skid bracing below.

- We plan a 72" by 24" tongue box, bigger than the XVs and with canted corners to allow for better articulation at parking 90deg

- If you use the measurements I listed and still have the pintle assembly you could come up with the differential but I think overall we're lengthened +12" or so at the max coupler's hitch pin

- This depends a lot on your drawbar placement, hitch and towing vehicle but it 'could', slightly

- Single axle short wheel base trailers are inherently more darty, of course, but what it may do it give you a better chance to visualize when backing. We tow tens of thousands of miles a year with various rigs. That started about 2003 hauling a track car so the miles of experience have accumulated. That said, I do like that after dragging this m1101 around a lot through the wilderness it makes towing our large trailers (horse, car, etc) seem like a breeze.

Agreed, we measured an XV when we were trying to purchase one and then measured the m1101 when we got it instead. It was somewhere in the 12-18" range longer from hitch contact to bed. I'm an engineer but not materials, we used experiential reckoning of a trusted friend HAHA! That said, I think our margin of safety is well within my preference of 50% of stated specs. We have a 1 tonne fullsize truck and keep tongue weights and gvw at 50% or below of stated metrics.

Parking brake brackets aren't done yet but I'll post once finished. Same for our tongue box. I've been largely out of the country recently and there isn't much time for projects after catching up on normal things.
 

billybronco

New member
AMAAAAAAAAAZING work.............You've done EVERYTHING I've been dreaming of for my 1102. Had NO idea where or how to get a rack system. Bravo......Nicely done.

Question........Do the mounting brackets allow for drilling to be mounted directly to the top of the rails/bed via the factory threaded inserts? I found SS bolts that fit the thread pitch and want a more permanent mounting solution that the C clamps.

Thanks boss
 
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JamesC

Adventurer
Question........Do the mounting brackets allow for drilling to be mounted directly to the top of the rails/bed via the factory threaded inserts? I found SS bolts that fit the thread pitch and want a more permanent mounting solution that the C clamps.

I think you could drill through them no problem. Are you spanning a Canoe/kayak or maybe a platform - I think that would be about 90" from memory? You might have an issue with the seam for the corner joist plates being 1-3mm (with liner) proud of the normal rail and want a plate between the rack base and the bed rail to be sure it's perfectly even?
 

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MtnBubba

Observer
My thought on the drawbar is this:

I have a 24" female receiver hitch blank.

I want to extend the current drawbar 2x3 steel tubing about 12" -14" by welding it to the end of the current drawbar.

I suppose the aluminum plate can be cut back to the huckbolts, then using about 5"x18" (estimate) of steel plate on each side to overlap the weld, and bolt the plate through the existing holes for the pintle hitch, new holes in the extension, and then bolt the 24" receiver hitch under the drawbar using the steel plate. That would serve similar to your skid brace and give me a 2" lower drawbar.

Thoughts?
 

JamesC

Adventurer
My thought on the drawbar is this:

I have a 24" female receiver hitch blank.

I want to extend the current drawbar 2x3 steel tubing about 12" -14" by welding it to the end of the current drawbar.

I suppose the aluminum plate can be cut back to the huckbolts, then using about 5"x18" (estimate) of steel plate on each side to overlap the weld, and bolt the plate through the existing holes for the pintle hitch, new holes in the extension, and then bolt the 24" receiver hitch under the drawbar using the steel plate. That would serve similar to your skid brace and give me a 2" lower drawbar.

Thoughts?

This seems similar to what I've seen others do on Steel Soliders, etc. Seems reasonable to me?
 

hudsimtn

Observer
Hey. I've been wanted to put these stabilizers on my trailer. They fit perfect with the beams? Are the self tapping mounting screws strong enough or do figure they need to be bolted in?
Thanks!
 

JamesC

Adventurer
Hey. I've been wanted to put these stabilizers on my trailer. They fit perfect with the beams? Are the self tapping mounting screws strong enough or do figure they need to be bolted in?
Thanks!
Hello, were you intending to link to something or include a picture? Nothing came through other than your text :)
 

JamesC

Adventurer
Ah ok, got it. We seem to over do everything but I used the self tapping screws on the jacks. You'd have to run carriage bolts through the bottom of the bed otherwise. Zero stability concerns for the long term as far as I can see. I can take more pics if it would help but they fit pretty perfectly.
 

hudsimtn

Observer
Ah ok, got it. We seem to over do everything but I used the self tapping screws on the jacks. You'd have to run carriage bolts through the bottom of the bed otherwise. Zero stability concerns for the long term as far as I can see. I can take more pics if it would help but they fit pretty perfectly.
Great thanks! Pics would be great when you get a chance.
 
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