M101A2 Trailer Purchase & Project
- Thread starter TexasFJ
- Start date
TexasFJ
Observer
Getting back around to working on this more.
As far as brakes go I've contemplated adding brakes, one issue is it's ******** to put a controller on an FJ, real pain in the ********. There are some wireless controllers that solve that problem but are a bit pricey still. Something like this will set you back about $300 http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90250.html
Having said that, in my normal usage with the trailer weighing about 1000lb as it sits I may have 3-800lbs on it when hauling stuff to events or hauling a load of winch mounts, things like that. I'd feel pretty comfortable with 1000 maybe even 1500lbs of load but over that you have to be careful as if you get the nose up on a FJ and therefore light on the front end, the ABS wants to play havoc with a quick stop and turn. At that point I'd go for some trailer brakes.
If you have several hundred pounds of camping gear, etc and are hitting some reasonable trails then it will go wherever the FJ goes and does it well without issue. I just hauled a load of firewood a few days ago, about 3/4 cord of oak, had to wheel it a bit to get off the property and it did it with ease, no drama what so ever. Sorry for the crappy night shot, it sat dead nuts level as did the FJ (I have it about 3/4" higher in the back unloaded).
I have a 2" ball on it right now but it's about to get a LockNRoll hitch before my next trailer required event. The ball works fine and I've twisted up pretty good off road before but it will certainly have it's limits. Lunettes are too noisy and jerky for me and are tougher to back up with on uneven terrain... at least it is for me. Rock solid stupid simple? Yes, but not the most elegant solution nor the best for me.
So, what's up next?
1. LockNRoll as stated above.
2. Need to figure out how I prefer to mount a spare. Picked up another matching wheel and even though my FJ spare is identical I figure it wouldn't hurt to have 2 along if I end up in BFE. Also I'm about to install some 285 all/mud terrain tires on the FJ so a stock 265 would be nice for the trailer. I don't want to take up a bunch of bed space but don't want it on the side. If I mount it on the front then I won't be able to open my rear door all the way as I can now. Not really hip on it being underneath. Even thought about a custom rear 'bumper' with a swing away tire/jerry can/hi lift mount??? So.. you run out of options real quick... however...
3. As my company, U.S. Off Road, has products produced in a machine shop I thought I'd come up with an innovative design for some tarp bows. I'm working on a design that is strong but also adjustable vertically (with a little lateral adjustment for manufacturing/use variations in the bed). You can have them down at their lowest adjustment and put a tarp on with about 3" of height above the bed or move them up 6-9 inches (still working that) and mount a RTT... think roof rack for your trailer. No RTT to mount? Just get a bigger tarp to have some vertical storage underneath... or get a tarp that will work at low and high adjustments...whatever. Was thinking about a system where you could mount platforms, cargo baskets, tools... all similar to a roof rack... so maybe a spare carrier?
If all goes well with the design and they can be produced at a decent price point than I'll probably offer bow kits for M101's via our store. Can't tell you when and sure can't state a price right now.
4. Still need to mount my jerry cans gas/water, will probably go up front.
Need to double check all the hardware, wheel bearings..etc to make sure it's ready for some long hauls.. so plenty to do. I'll update accordingly as I do things.
As far as brakes go I've contemplated adding brakes, one issue is it's ******** to put a controller on an FJ, real pain in the ********. There are some wireless controllers that solve that problem but are a bit pricey still. Something like this will set you back about $300 http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90250.html
Having said that, in my normal usage with the trailer weighing about 1000lb as it sits I may have 3-800lbs on it when hauling stuff to events or hauling a load of winch mounts, things like that. I'd feel pretty comfortable with 1000 maybe even 1500lbs of load but over that you have to be careful as if you get the nose up on a FJ and therefore light on the front end, the ABS wants to play havoc with a quick stop and turn. At that point I'd go for some trailer brakes.
If you have several hundred pounds of camping gear, etc and are hitting some reasonable trails then it will go wherever the FJ goes and does it well without issue. I just hauled a load of firewood a few days ago, about 3/4 cord of oak, had to wheel it a bit to get off the property and it did it with ease, no drama what so ever. Sorry for the crappy night shot, it sat dead nuts level as did the FJ (I have it about 3/4" higher in the back unloaded).
I have a 2" ball on it right now but it's about to get a LockNRoll hitch before my next trailer required event. The ball works fine and I've twisted up pretty good off road before but it will certainly have it's limits. Lunettes are too noisy and jerky for me and are tougher to back up with on uneven terrain... at least it is for me. Rock solid stupid simple? Yes, but not the most elegant solution nor the best for me.
So, what's up next?
1. LockNRoll as stated above.
2. Need to figure out how I prefer to mount a spare. Picked up another matching wheel and even though my FJ spare is identical I figure it wouldn't hurt to have 2 along if I end up in BFE. Also I'm about to install some 285 all/mud terrain tires on the FJ so a stock 265 would be nice for the trailer. I don't want to take up a bunch of bed space but don't want it on the side. If I mount it on the front then I won't be able to open my rear door all the way as I can now. Not really hip on it being underneath. Even thought about a custom rear 'bumper' with a swing away tire/jerry can/hi lift mount??? So.. you run out of options real quick... however...
3. As my company, U.S. Off Road, has products produced in a machine shop I thought I'd come up with an innovative design for some tarp bows. I'm working on a design that is strong but also adjustable vertically (with a little lateral adjustment for manufacturing/use variations in the bed). You can have them down at their lowest adjustment and put a tarp on with about 3" of height above the bed or move them up 6-9 inches (still working that) and mount a RTT... think roof rack for your trailer. No RTT to mount? Just get a bigger tarp to have some vertical storage underneath... or get a tarp that will work at low and high adjustments...whatever. Was thinking about a system where you could mount platforms, cargo baskets, tools... all similar to a roof rack... so maybe a spare carrier?
If all goes well with the design and they can be produced at a decent price point than I'll probably offer bow kits for M101's via our store. Can't tell you when and sure can't state a price right now.
4. Still need to mount my jerry cans gas/water, will probably go up front.
Need to double check all the hardware, wheel bearings..etc to make sure it's ready for some long hauls.. so plenty to do. I'll update accordingly as I do things.
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TexasFJ
Observer
It's been awhile...
With the upcoming Lone Star Toyota Jambo next month I decided it is time to do a few things.
1. Ordered an OD Green (company colors now) cover to replace the tan cover (tarp) that came with the trailer. (The tan one is for sale)
2. Going to try and strip the tan paint off of the sides to get back to the OD but will paint them if not.
3. Have our logos added to both sides of the tarp.
It's nice to have an enclosed trailer from time to time and especially during the Jambo.
I also ordered up 24' of L Track in black to mount inside and at the top of the sides plus a few more of the very handy Bed Bolts for more tie down options. Mainly I needed a simple method to secure my spare in front of the wheel well and ordered a few custom 2" black ratchet tie downs along with various L Track loops and what not to make this happen.
I'm also going to finally mount my water and jerry cans behind the wheel wells and add a few drain holes in the trailer.
Oh.. forgot, I better order my Lock-N-Roll hitch too.
That should be plenty to do before May 1st and I'll update with photos as stuff arrives.
With the upcoming Lone Star Toyota Jambo next month I decided it is time to do a few things.
1. Ordered an OD Green (company colors now) cover to replace the tan cover (tarp) that came with the trailer. (The tan one is for sale)
2. Going to try and strip the tan paint off of the sides to get back to the OD but will paint them if not.
3. Have our logos added to both sides of the tarp.
It's nice to have an enclosed trailer from time to time and especially during the Jambo.
I also ordered up 24' of L Track in black to mount inside and at the top of the sides plus a few more of the very handy Bed Bolts for more tie down options. Mainly I needed a simple method to secure my spare in front of the wheel well and ordered a few custom 2" black ratchet tie downs along with various L Track loops and what not to make this happen.
I'm also going to finally mount my water and jerry cans behind the wheel wells and add a few drain holes in the trailer.
Oh.. forgot, I better order my Lock-N-Roll hitch too.
That should be plenty to do before May 1st and I'll update with photos as stuff arrives.
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Looking good Brad. My 101A3 was used for firewood duty this winter as well.
Just got done making a roof/platform for it. My list of ideas about making a better roof/rack system is getting long. Might sell or scrap my current set up and start over with a little more forethought. I might have missed it but did you ad a rear stabilizer? I just added one from an M116A3 and it works well. One in each corner would probably be more stable but the price was right on this one and it is a pretty good design.
The roof is removable as well as each part of the rack. Pretty modular for a trailer that has to serve double duty.
E-track is great stuff and actually stiffens up the flexible sides. I still would like to add a few horizontal pieces to the bed side of the fenders. I used to keep the spare in front of the tub but will likely move it to the roof now.
Just got done making a roof/platform for it. My list of ideas about making a better roof/rack system is getting long. Might sell or scrap my current set up and start over with a little more forethought. I might have missed it but did you ad a rear stabilizer? I just added one from an M116A3 and it works well. One in each corner would probably be more stable but the price was right on this one and it is a pretty good design.
The roof is removable as well as each part of the rack. Pretty modular for a trailer that has to serve double duty.
E-track is great stuff and actually stiffens up the flexible sides. I still would like to add a few horizontal pieces to the bed side of the fenders. I used to keep the spare in front of the tub but will likely move it to the roof now.
TexasFJ
Observer
Added 8' of L Track from US Cargo Control down each side, I have an extra 4' x 2 but haven't made up my mind where I want it just yet. You can get this powder coated in an abundance of colors. I passed on their stainless screws, 1.5" was too long and I'm hiding them under the bed rails for a clean installation. Ran down to Ace and bought a few boxes of 1/4" x 1" philips flat heads, lock washers and nuts. 10 holes per 4' piece, had to trim one piece on each side about 1/4" to clear bedliner thickness, etc. Turned out great.
I don't want to mount any L track near the bottom as I DO use the trailer to haul things like rock, dirt, etc and I'd never get it all out. Having said that I'm thinking across the top of the fender wells might be nice, maybe a few small sections up front. I started to put some on the tailgate but it would just be in the way all the time.
Added another set of removable eye bolt tie down points all of this leading to mounting my spare desert racer style with some 2" ratchet tie downs. Very solid.
Also received my Lock-N-Roll hitch (I'm a dealer) and got it mounted. About to head to car wash and blast my new OD Green cover and side panels in preparation to paint them back OD unless I can get the tan off easily and back to the OD below it.
Still need to secure my strap ends.
You can see more pics here: https://plus.google.com/113131946426265563489/posts/Xi45YuxuNez
Lot's more to do this weekend so more to come.
I don't want to mount any L track near the bottom as I DO use the trailer to haul things like rock, dirt, etc and I'd never get it all out. Having said that I'm thinking across the top of the fender wells might be nice, maybe a few small sections up front. I started to put some on the tailgate but it would just be in the way all the time.
Added another set of removable eye bolt tie down points all of this leading to mounting my spare desert racer style with some 2" ratchet tie downs. Very solid.
Also received my Lock-N-Roll hitch (I'm a dealer) and got it mounted. About to head to car wash and blast my new OD Green cover and side panels in preparation to paint them back OD unless I can get the tan off easily and back to the OD below it.
Still need to secure my strap ends.
You can see more pics here: https://plus.google.com/113131946426265563489/posts/Xi45YuxuNez
Lot's more to do this weekend so more to come.
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TexasFJ
Observer
Yeah.. that's what I meant... on the side of the fender well but at the top. I just wasn't too clear about it. I have removable eye bolts at the corners and another set just in front of the wheel wells too. If I can't secure my cargo then it can't be secured.
You can see a couple of the eyebolts below. They are actually called Bed Bolts and can be bought at Northern Tool. I add another washer on top so it has a solid surface above and below the floor. If you want them out of the way for something the eyebolt part just unscrews and they come with some plastic plugs to keep stuff from getting in the threads.
You can see a couple of the eyebolts below. They are actually called Bed Bolts and can be bought at Northern Tool. I add another washer on top so it has a solid surface above and below the floor. If you want them out of the way for something the eyebolt part just unscrews and they come with some plastic plugs to keep stuff from getting in the threads.
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Mark Harley
Expedition Leader
Very nice! Looks good with the cover too.
Blacknight
Observer
Looking good TexasFJ!
i have a question on this...
i bought a 64" hub face to hubface Dexter axle pretty much everything that is described in this post, but when i put it up to the springs on my M101 A3 trailer and then tried to put the Tacoma TRD rims up against the hubs this would not fit for the life of me, when i measured how much space i would need to fit those rims on the axles it turned out that i would need another 4" spacers on each side to fit my wheels onto the axle and allow it to fit in the fender without rubbing on the inside wall.
can someone help me understand what i am doing wrong? im going to try to return the axle if at all possible and then buy a 72" hubface to hubface so that i can account for the extra 4 inches i need on each side.
thanks for any help...
i think my backspacing is 5.25"
atleast thats what i got out of this post.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-specs.30754/
TexasFJ
Observer
FJ's are about 4.75" if I remember correctly so that's another .500" along with my 1.25" spacers that will be around 1.75" but far short of your 4" difference.
Having said that, you need to order an axle suited for the wheels you are using. Unless you are using the same exact wheels/spacers I used it may not work out the same.
Having said that, you need to order an axle suited for the wheels you are using. Unless you are using the same exact wheels/spacers I used it may not work out the same.