M101A1 to Expedition Trailer Conversion Bryan, TEXAS
- Thread starter Essayons
- Start date
Buffalobwana
Observer
What was the real net weight savings? I understand that is not the main reason people do the axle swap, it’s the bolt pattern and hub issue, just curious.
I’m a trailer hoarder. You will read about this guy getting killed because a stack of his trailers fell over on him. Yeah, that will be me ... I should really do something about that stack of NOS M105 beds I bought at auction last year.
RedM101A2
Member
My build from many years ago.
https://www.expeditionportal.com/fo...itary-trailer-to-build-a-family-hauler.63713/
https://www.expeditionportal.com/fo...itary-trailer-to-build-a-family-hauler.63713/
amoya1986
New member
I haven't weighed it yet but from the countless hours I spent here reading forum after forum, its roughly about 250 pounds. BUT it really is nice having the trailer brakes. If I had the a2 or a3 version I never would of swapped it and just dealt with the surge brakes LOL at "trailer hoarder"
Okay everyone, I've been busy with other things in life and now I'm redirecting my attention to the trailer project. I do have some questions though for the forum on cetain aspects/considerations of a trailer layout. The big question for now is what does everyone do for long-term storage of your trailer? The internal water supply on my trailer will have a provision to drain it out; covering holes to keep out mud daubbers,etc. Is there anything one must do(generally) for any onboard fridge/freezers?
Alright, I finally have an opportunity to write down some of my design criteria for the trailer. These are ranked roughly most to least important but all will be incorporated:
1) Low cost. I've decided to convert a military trailer rather than build outright since most of the design work is complete. I love the Patriot/Conqueror/Echo trailers, but I ask myself "will I get $30,000 use out of it?" For now anyway I'm going the CHEAP route. Maybe down the line I might be able to acquire one of the nice trailers, but for now, with use limited to mainly summers (my wife teaches), this will have to do.
2) Securable. The benefits of a trailer is being able to disconnect and drive without breaking camp. This implies things should be locked up. This point ties into the next because a "bucket" style trailer (like an M416) if only tarped or with a tonneau cover , isn't secured sufficiently (for me anyway..).
3) Utility tool box style. The best description I could come up with. I have owned/camped out of two trailers; an M100, and an M416. Great trailers but I don't want to schlepp boxes/gear in and out of the trailer. I want most used item accessed from the sides.
4) Fast set-up/strike down. With the advent of RTT's, the time to set up my shelter is greatly reduced, as well as any shade screens.
5) The ability to stay "off grid"/ independent, for at least five days. Water is the heaviest expendable item when in quantity. the age old factor allowance of two gallons per day, per person is what I used. With two people for five days that comes to 20 gallons. I plan on installing a 30 gallon tank to give me the extra capacity if needed. That comes to about 250 lbs. full load. Most trips I won't load that much.
I'm always looking to keep weight at a minimum and located as low as I can. The only high mounted item will be the RTT. If I bring a kayak or canoe, it's going on the towing vehicle.
I've taken initial measurements and have made drawings for planning the layout. The general layout will have a three-part section forward; each part will have a locking lid. The middle compartment will house the batteries and electrical panel. The two corner will have the propane gas tanks; one in use and one reload. The next section moving backward to the rear will have side doors with access; the left(driver side) will be a slide-out stove/sink. The right side will be storage to be determined. Behind this, are two large drawers/slides. One will have a fridge/freezer and dry food storage, etc; the other one with be for general cargo- chairs, etc. The areas over the wheel wells are for poles, etc. I plan on having individual doors for both cargo spaces, but I'm keeping the tailgate since it aids in keeping the trailer locked up and provides a work surface. I'm still looking for spare tire options. I don't want to have to crawl under the trailer to retrieve the spare, so a swing-out arrangement is planned. The cargo bed is capped off using metal with an additinal box for storage on top. I've located a fabricator who will do the top/box in aluminum for the material cost. The RTT will set on a rack, but the drawings don't show it yet. There will be a tongue tool box for trailer related items, etc. Let me know what ya'll think...
1) Low cost. I've decided to convert a military trailer rather than build outright since most of the design work is complete. I love the Patriot/Conqueror/Echo trailers, but I ask myself "will I get $30,000 use out of it?" For now anyway I'm going the CHEAP route. Maybe down the line I might be able to acquire one of the nice trailers, but for now, with use limited to mainly summers (my wife teaches), this will have to do.
2) Securable. The benefits of a trailer is being able to disconnect and drive without breaking camp. This implies things should be locked up. This point ties into the next because a "bucket" style trailer (like an M416) if only tarped or with a tonneau cover , isn't secured sufficiently (for me anyway..).
3) Utility tool box style. The best description I could come up with. I have owned/camped out of two trailers; an M100, and an M416. Great trailers but I don't want to schlepp boxes/gear in and out of the trailer. I want most used item accessed from the sides.
4) Fast set-up/strike down. With the advent of RTT's, the time to set up my shelter is greatly reduced, as well as any shade screens.
5) The ability to stay "off grid"/ independent, for at least five days. Water is the heaviest expendable item when in quantity. the age old factor allowance of two gallons per day, per person is what I used. With two people for five days that comes to 20 gallons. I plan on installing a 30 gallon tank to give me the extra capacity if needed. That comes to about 250 lbs. full load. Most trips I won't load that much.
I'm always looking to keep weight at a minimum and located as low as I can. The only high mounted item will be the RTT. If I bring a kayak or canoe, it's going on the towing vehicle.
I've taken initial measurements and have made drawings for planning the layout. The general layout will have a three-part section forward; each part will have a locking lid. The middle compartment will house the batteries and electrical panel. The two corner will have the propane gas tanks; one in use and one reload. The next section moving backward to the rear will have side doors with access; the left(driver side) will be a slide-out stove/sink. The right side will be storage to be determined. Behind this, are two large drawers/slides. One will have a fridge/freezer and dry food storage, etc; the other one with be for general cargo- chairs, etc. The areas over the wheel wells are for poles, etc. I plan on having individual doors for both cargo spaces, but I'm keeping the tailgate since it aids in keeping the trailer locked up and provides a work surface. I'm still looking for spare tire options. I don't want to have to crawl under the trailer to retrieve the spare, so a swing-out arrangement is planned. The cargo bed is capped off using metal with an additinal box for storage on top. I've located a fabricator who will do the top/box in aluminum for the material cost. The RTT will set on a rack, but the drawings don't show it yet. There will be a tongue tool box for trailer related items, etc. Let me know what ya'll think...
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