M1010 expo build. The Mountain Turtle

stevo-mt

Member
Well it's that time of year again when its busy, the salmon are running and I have a few minutes every once in a while to dream and think about my truck while it sits in Anchorage.

I made a purchase for a couple of the stainless steel folding steps that will go on the side of the truck by the drivers and passenger doors. That should make life a bit easier grabbing fuel jugs or if I ever actually use the generator to check up on it. The solar panels and driving pretty much keep that thing topped off. When I was in canada I also found some more of those good sceptor cans with a true vent. None of that "carb" gas can stuff. :elkgrin:

I also found a heavy duty canvas tarp with d-rings and straps. I shipped it to me here in AK so I can test it when I drive down to Montana in the fall. The idea was that with an 8 x 16 foot canvas tarp I can have the rear doors open and this would span across the two doors and provide a shelter down to almost the ground. I borrowed the idea from a m1010 truck that a guy in Europe has. We shall see how that goes and I plan on making so it rolls up and ties off on the back where the lift for the spare tire (former stretcher lift) deals go. The price was about half of doing an ARB awning but I don't see how one of those things would ever hold up in winds that you get in these parts of the world.

The more thinking I do about this truck the more I am opting to change the idea of how everything is setup. What I discovered and reinforced on the trip up the alcan this spring is that I need to either cut down on gear (that will never happen...) or make more storage space. As much as I love the camp chef stove with the oven it will not have a permanent home in the truck. It simply takes up too much room. I am going to go the route of a small 2 burner stove top. The fancy Lagun table is not really practical. Kind of a waste of money really at this point. I just don't have enough room in the truck as is to justify such a fancy adjustable table. The solution will be a slide out piece of plywood that comes from under one of the aluminum backboard/bunk dealy's. Not sure what you call those things but they are stout enough it will hold up a 3 ft long piece of plywood underneath. On a really cold day with 12 hours of driving we ended up just cooking with the Jetboils inside with the roof open and the door cracked. That actually worked out awesome. Jet boils are such an awesome thing to have. I figured I could just make the propane burner slide out as well. Basically putting a westifallia kitchen in a horizontal space that slid out to where you could use it when you wanted.

I love the storage in the back underneath were the stretchers would be but it is so difficult to access. There are these sliding doors that are just a pain in the neck. So when the truck gets back to MT I am going to feel a bit sad but the grinder is going to be taken to them and it will become flush with the floor and have as much room to the top. I plan on doing one of two things. Either find plastic totes that fit or making a few different wood boxes that would fit exactly in the space. That way I could contour the fender wells and other random things that get in the way. I would make them out of 1/4" plywood so theoretically won't lose any space. Just making it more usable and less frustrating. I have to keep my girlfriend happy when she tries to get a snack or something and can't because of some random tool slid into the way of the sliding door and it won't open now.

The simple "tailgaterz" hanging kitchen organizer is such a nice thing to have. It makes things so much more simple for all the cooking junk. It's right there handy on the wall and you can roll it up out of the way when you don't want it there. I do plan on making some nice wood cabinets up in the top corner of the rear. It seems like unused space that wouldn't hurt to have a 12"x 8" x 7 ft set of cabinets down the side. Nothing complicated or heavy. Just more storage for food and the random junk like that.

If I can make coffee and dinner without having to a ton of work it will be a much more pleasurable platform. Normally Jess and I are pretty laid back traveling but when we had to actually stay to a schedule later on in the trip it made it a pain to drive until 7 or 8 in the evening, then be hungry and try to cook, hauling out the stove and etc. It sure was nice being able to bake things but not really worth the hassle of how big and heavy that stove is!

So my solution. Realizing I can't have everything in a smaller size package (relative compared to an F550 or unimog) I am going to make a compromise. I like to take motorcycles and snow machines out recreating so I am almost stuck pulling a trailer any time I want to do that. My M1101 humvee trailer seems to be the perfect platform for a complementary "glamping" trailer. By enclosing the M1101 I would be able to put the things that I can't or don't want to have in the truck for those times that I would be setting up a base camp. Or at least leave the junk at the trail head in an inclosed trailer. My plans were to enclose the trailer anyways so why not install the propane stove, a sink, axillary water tanks, spare fuel and gas jugs, propane tank, hot water heater, shower curtain assembly, etc. Two motorcycles and our zodiac could live in that thing with a locked door. Another reason for this is my girlfriend is going to be starting graduate school so we are planning on having to move twice in two years and I would hate to end up living in an apartment somewhere without all my toys. :coffee: blah blah blah... rant over.

Now onto the good stuff!

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Cruising a tractor down the Alaska Peninsula Highway! 15 miles of paved awesomeness!

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Some fishing boats out in Bristol bay at Egegik.

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A big ol' bear!
 

Hartigan

Let's go!
Love the build, and thanks for sharing your adventures with us! My wife's kitchen requirements for our M1010 are also a "just-in-case coffee and dinner spot" :) It would certainly help make a long travel day a bit easier to wind down.

It sounds like the trailer is the right way for you to go... I'll be looking forward to see how it goes!!
 

Drunkle Scuzzy

New member
hello, we have twin trucks, although I just got mine recently and it is stock. I am really interested in how you mounted your jerrycans. thanks for doing such a thorough write up. I'm on steel soldiers as well. I'll keep reading for more inspiration.


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The over the cab roof rack is mounted and the gen compartment is mostly complete.

I wanted to keep the rear batteries separated from the front unless needed to jump start the truck. It was easier, and significantly cheaper, to do the dual alternator setup than trying to get one high performance one that would handle charging both engine and cabin batteries. The M1010 was originally designed with a 12v/24v system and originally had two alternators. I am simply just re-installing a second back in the empty bracket. My dad had a spare 130 amp alt. on the shelf in the shop, so that is the other reason it went in. They are heavy truck alternators vs. your light truck/car size or frame. One of my toys is a Zero Electric Motorcycle, so its kind of handy to have the bigger inverter to charge it while I'm driving. View attachment 191548 The little Honda gen. isn't necessary either. It is 100% for redundancy, plus I end up doing a lot of work out in the hills/woods so I would pack a generator anyways so I might as well make a carrier for it that lets me take it in and out easy. My friend and I always have the conversation about being prepared since we both go a little overboard. It seems like when we go flying we appear that we're going camping when we are heading out only for a couple hours. I've been in the situation when I was winter camping and my battery and alternator took a dive in about -10 degrees F. The only reason I was able to get back without having to call for help is my cordless spotlight had enough power to run the fuel pump and we were able to push the truck back down the trail and get it going. Things break, that was even an expensive battery in the truck too. I figure if I get stuck or breakdown or run out of fuel in the middle of winter I'll be able to stay warm one way or another. The gen set can also charge batteries or run the engine block heater, which is really why I feel the urge to bring it. I sometimes don't have good luck when I park my vehicles for a few days to go hiking and go to start them.

I could pretty well easily live without solar panels on top, but they don't weight much and provide enough power to keep my fridge going without any issue. The other benefit is when my truck is parked for 5 months without me touching it the batteries should be in good shape when I get back. Plus when I go to build my cabin it will be nice!
 

Drunkle Scuzzy

New member
Any chance you have the part number for the LED replacement bulb for the spotlight on the roof?


It's been too longs since I've last posted. The weather back in November dived down to about -30 F for a week so that pretty much put a halt to the truck project. I Have been working on a shop that will soon be insulated and heated. And the door is big enough that I can fit the truck in the shop for a change!

As far as work progress goes things have not been moving fast. The only things that I have done since I posted last was install a new gear reduction starter (old one died when it was -30 out), engine block heater, LED replacement bulb for my spotlight, and install the RAM mount holders for my phone and tablet.
I ended up getting the back country Navigator pro for my Nexus. It works pretty well and you can get all the USFS maps for free. I purchased Alaska's and Montana's land ownership additionally. Well worth it. The gps is pretty spot on. I still have a garmin for backup, but I can store all kinds of maps ahead of time and even satellite photos.

The 21st I am taking off with the truck towards Washington/Oregon then down to Moab for a few weeks. Then a little bit through Colorado and Wyoming back to MT. So there is a list of things to get done before I take off and camp out of it for a while, mainly the Espar Heaters. I don't want to have to run a generator all night to keep it warm! But as always it gets ridiculously cold whenever I need to get work done.

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Drunkle Scuzzy

New member
Definitely like the jerrycan location, and am considering a propane can on the other side for a stove in the box.



Quick update. I got the truck somewhat good to go. I got the heaters working and some of the other stuff taken care of. I camped out outside of Rock Creek in Montana and the heaters worked great. Truck fired up in the cold morning after the coolant heater warmed it up a bit. Made it to Moscow Idaho and the H1 wheels started doing the death wobble. No one could get them to balance out so I had to get out my checkbook and get some new 37's. Luckily they had some Toyo MTs which is what I probably should have done in the beginning. Now I have bro wheels, but at least no death wobble. We have traveled another 1000 miles or so and over all everything is going good. The front seal on the 208 started dripping so I changed it out. Two days later it's doing the same. Oh well I guess. We made it to Boise Idaho after touring some of Oregon. Tomorrow night we're heading to Moab for the next part of the trip! Fun, fun fun! View attachment 213808 View attachment 213810 View attachment 213811
 

Drunkle Scuzzy

New member
As with my old FJ60 Landcruiser I try not to think of it as a slow truck, but rather a fast tractor. I learned to drive in a 75 VW Microbus, so this feels fast in comparison. I honestly enjoy driving my m1010 more than my 99 tacoma sr5 4x4 extracab trd etc. I'm an old fashioned guy from a small town and I like old trucks best.


Once I became happy at driving 55-65 mph on highways, I have pretty much just enjoyed the truck for what it is. A slower, reliable, go nearly anywhere rig. That gets decent fuel economy. If you have to be worried about driving more than 55-60 in my opinion your doing it wrong. The only other owertrain change in making is the turbo banks kit. After putting a decent amount of miles the only thing it needs is to breath a little better at altitude.
 

skysix

Adventurer
I also switched everything back on the truck to the SRW hubs and removed the spacers in the back. H1 wheels and tires lessoned learned. They end up costing you the same as buying new toyo MT's from the beginning :(.

What was the reason? Tire wear? Bearing failure?
 

stevo-mt

Member
So the problem I had with the H1 37s from the very beginning were the H1 dual beadlock rims. I changed over the front hubs to a dually setup and put some heavy duty spacers to keep all of the steering geometry in line. They would not stay balanced worth a darn. I was able to drive 1500 miles before I had any issues but the tires seem fine. I think that the tires were just old rubber too so who knows. Although they gripped fantastic on ice and snow. I love MTRs. All the problems went away instantly when I put new rims and tires on. I put the original hubs back on and removed the spacers. It was an expensive pain in the neck. Bearings were fine and such. I love the H1 wheels look on the truck. I'll keep them around when I get a 3/4 or 1 ton ranch pickup. It's nice having 37's on my m1010. When it snows a couple feet it just makes it more fun to try and get into town.

Knowing all that... I would have bought hutchenson beadlocks and tires from the get go and been happy.

The LED spotlight replacement is a wheelen setup I got off of amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009LQG64S?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage . THat thing is so handy and bright that it is rediculous. One of the best mods on the truck. You can find campsites and such real quick. Also it reaches out much further than most LED lightbars. There are a few different angles you can get. I got a more flood angle verses the really tight spot light. I think I made the right choice because LED lights tend to fade out going any further past what this is capable of doing.

The jerry can mount was built with some aluminum angle. I started out and just made a square frame. I would have probably made it bigger to make a roof rack over more of the cab of the truck, but I didn't want to loose the spotlight either. So it was a compromise and luck that the same width of a honda eu2000 generator is also the same size of a set of gas cans turned 90 degrees. I wanted to avoid any difference in articulation with the box and truck cab too.
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I added some brackets to reinforce the middle at the same location that the air conditioning unit would be able to tie in for strength with some short tabs of aluminum. I put some upright braces on the outer edges of the box so I could spread the weight out throughout the aluminum.
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I drilled and riveted everything into the aluminum on the box of the truck. Drilling and tapping would probably work equally well. I also used 3M 5200 on every hole and surface that would be penetrating the original watertight box. I drilled and riveted the tabs to tie the rack into the air conditioner box. It is pretty stout on its own so between everything 10 gallons of fuel and an eu2000 generator (50 lbs) It shouldn't have any issues and hasn't so far. I haven't really needed to pack the generator at all. The solar panels keep everything topped off and my cabin batteries are hold out for a long time. I guess the time I will pack it is in winter and I'm solo out in the middle of nowhere. At least I know that the EU2000 will most likely start and I can get other things going once that is. I have put almost a little too much redundancy into this truck in areas.

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A while ago I found this truck on the interweb. Pretty neat ideas.
http://www.v-8.fr/chevrolet_----/04764.html

This one was on expo portal a while ago with a link to his site. I thought was another cool build.
http://www.gentrymw.com/m1010specs.htm

It sounds like I'll get to finish the season for work up at Fairbanks again this year. So I'll fly back to Anchorage at the end of the month and hop in the truck and head north. I've been on some of the roads around there but it is likely I'll only be working 4 ten's so I will have 3 day weekends to explore. Plus I can use my friends tools and garage to build some of those little handy things I've been thinking about before the 3500 mile trip back south.

There is more M1010 folks all the time! I think that the simplicity and cost makes it a good candidate for an expo truck. I'm looking forward to getting a turbo installed and other than that I don't think I'll change much more on the mechanical side of things. Then its time to focus on camper/trailer aspects!
 

stevo-mt

Member
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I was able to go up to Katmai National Park and check out a few of the sites up there. The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes is one of the coolest places I've been. It is like Mt. St. Helens x 100!
 

stevo-mt

Member
Since this is the first day I've had any chance to update I might as well go for the gusto and mention the window setup I decided to go with. Earlier in my build I had purchased some custom windows from a place in Washington. They were super nice tinted and everything but just did not really fit the truck as I expected. Luckily my friend was converting is enclosed trailer into a camping/hunting trailer and they fit his setup almost perfect. I didn't lose any money and figured I would find what I wanted soon enough. The other downfall is that I brush tree's all the time and custom windows take forever to get replacements... (It took them 8 weeks to make the first pair I had bought)

I wasn't ever going to put any windows in at that point. My girlfriend suggested we revisit the subject and after our last trip we decided we should really have visibility out the side.

I like the Seitz windows that all the europeans can get but they are not super available without connections. So I am going to try an experiment for side windows. One of our work boats is an aluminum fishing boat that has been out here in Bristol bay for 15 or so years. It has a Bomar ocean hatch on the foredeck and has held up throughout the summers and winters. I started thinking since hatches are pretty standard sizes and available fairly quickly I might try them for a side window. The one on top of my truck has held up for a few years great! I found a size that is smaller and would fit between the 16" centered camper box studs.
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They are Bomar 9" sqaure boat hatches. I was able to find a pair of brand new ones for $150! (thank you ebay!) Of course they are about $250 to replace one... but they are in stock at places like west marine. I'll have to cut two 9 1/2" squares out on the passenger or curb side of the box and mount these in there just like I did my other hatch. Then make some custom trim. I decided I'll put some Aluminum angle around it for protection from tree branches and as a drip edge. They have a bug screen and everything with them so it should work out great. If I break one I can get one shipped to wherever I'm at and fix it in a relatively timely manner.
 

mp_tx

Observer
If you want to run the H1's, use the balancers from Centramatic out of Texas.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Darkrider

Adventurer
Finally all caught up! I'm glad to see that you are staying with the old Detroit and once you swap in the 4L80E and Banks turbo it will be a much more enjoyable rig to drive. Might I suggest looking at a USAShift or TCI transmission controller for the trans swap. Also one thing you will need to consider is the fact that your NP208 is a passenger side drop while the NP241 is a drivers side drop. Unless of course you find an NP241C from an early 90s square body suburban. With that all stated a 205 T case just makes sense with the overbuilt nature of your M1010. Keep it up and I look forward to future updates.
 

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