Thanks for the post. I have already committed the car now and figured it looked clean and these were simply age related items. My plan is to drive it the 1,000 miles home and see what I can do myself and if not, shop around for lower prices.Steering Rack is pretty common thing to need replaced on a high mileage/ older vehicle. Oil pan is not a common issue with 100's, likely it's just due to age. Neither are show stoppers. Not sure how they are arriving at $930 for a power steering hose though, that's way too much. Steering rack is labor intensive but is totally DIY-able if so inclined. Oil pan gasket should be pretty simple, but does require unbolting the engine from the mounts and lifting it up a little to clear the differential crossmember. But not that big of a deal. It looks like they may be charging you for removing the entire engine instead of just lifting it up slightly to get access to the pan.
All in all those are not game changers, but just maintenance on an 18 year old vehicle.
Wait, are you just using an impact with a small socket that fits around the studs to release them instead of hammering the flange with brass drifts? Hot damn that's so much easier.the bearing should good unless no maintains. Im on originals with 200k
Cone washer removed on my LX470 the easy way
Only thing i would say for the r+p is don't get a parts store one. Go with a Toyota Re-man or OEM rack. You'll get pretty mixed reviews on the parts store ones, but mostly it's that they don't last that long especially if you wheel the truck at all. And they come with crappy inner tie rods that also don't last too long especially if your suspension geometry is not stock.Hey all,
Thank you for the help! Flew down to North Carolina last week and drove it back to MN the 1,100 miles or so with no issues.
Here is a video of the rig for those that are curious.
Cost me $15,900 all in (taxes, dealer fees, etc). Just a heads up for anyone else, got nabbed with roughly $800 in dealers fees that I may have been able to avoid but was anxious to commit as I recently lost out on two other vehicles that sold in less than a day (1999 LX w/ 150k miles with meticulous records for $14k and 2005 LX with 115k for $23k with great records, both 1-owner). Simply wanted to provide my experience for anyone else looking. Mine was 2-owner, 151k miles with great records.
Found someone to do the rack and pinion along with alignment for $480. I’m not as savvy as many of you so plan to pay that for the convenience. Any advice on new r+p versus rebuilt? Leaning new but was curious if anyone had experience with rebuilt from rock auto.
Going to do the hoses myself.
Bringing it to a former Toyota mechanic that works out of his garage on the side now this weekend to evaluate the lower gasket seal.
Very pleased with the rig so far. Knowledge of them is limited but glad to answer any questions surrounding what my buying experience was like.
Im using an air hammer with a short piece of hose to keep from sliding off the stud....quick and easy.Wait, are you just using an impact with a small socket that fits around the studs to release them instead of hammering the flange with brass drifts? Hot damn that's so much easier.
Bearings should be good if maintained, but mine had very few maintenance records for bearing re-packing when I bought mine (lots of other ones but not bearings for some reason), so I did them just for piece of mind at about 225K. Even with what i'd guess would be sparse maintenance (likely only greasing when replacing the rotors) the races looked fine with no scoring or indications of abuse. So really for the OP if you don't have maintance records for re-packing the bearings every 30K or so it's probably worth at least pulling one hub off and taking a look at the races.
Also, grab a set of @LandCruiserPhil mud flap deletes. They look 100x better, and those stockers are going to get ripped off anyways if you're wheeling in any kind of rocks.