chiliVANilli
Adventurer
Thanks!
Lucinda Build
- Thread starter chiliVANilli
- Start date
Thanks!
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
I have no idea what they sprayed in the doghouse and lid back in 68', but I'm pretty sure I got some kind of cancer, even with a respirator, when I cleaned it out of there. Nasty. Took it down to bare metal, primed and painted with some high temp paint.
I knew heat was going to more than an issue with the engine being right next to me/ us, so I used some self adhesive temperature and sound barrier stuff from Summit Racing. It was cheaper than Dynomat and supposed to the same.
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
I chose to use a Flowmaster 70 series because it is supposed to be the quietest high flow muffler. It ended up being a little louder than I want, but not so bad I won't be able to pull into a campsite late at night. It is pretty long, so it made building the rest of the exhaust pretty easy.
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
The exhaust was pretty much one the last things I had to do so I could try and start the van. So after doing some final checks, I turned the key. This was around Thanksgiving(2015). I was surprised it even turned over, but it didn't start. Still I was stoked it even cranked, with all the wiring and modifying of the column and whatever. But I had to figure out what the hell was wrong. A VERY long story short, I found out it wasn't getting fuel. The brand new fuel pump wasn't working! So I dropped the tank, and did some testing and found that one the prongs in the connector in the in tank harness wasn't going in it's hole. I can't even tell you how pissed I was. On the bright side, if that hadn't been f'ed up ,she would have fired right up! She ran kinda rough because she was running rich, but running and I finally got to take her for a spin. 
Now I had to figure out what was causing the TBI to spray so much fuel.
Now I had to figure out what was causing the TBI to spray so much fuel.
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
The sweet smell of success was gassy, but so fun. You'll be behind the wheel before you know it!
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
I chased the running rich problem around and replaced a bunch of parts. EGR valve, fuel pressure regulator, MAP sensor, IAC valve, both fuel injectors and the O2 sensor(2nd one), all without any change. Still running rich! My mechanic friend kept suggesting the Distributor, but I couldn't see how that would do it, but I figured I'd try it, I mean it's only $$. So I got new one from NAPA with the ECM and pickup coil all new in it as well. I think the problem was the pickup coil. Well, it did make a huge difference, but it's still not as perfect as I want it, but it is running pretty sweet! And then the Holidays and family visiting took over my time.
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
I finally got to do some shakedown runs and noticed I was getting some vibrations from 0 to about 15 mph and they would smooth out as I went faster. The rear driveshaft is pretty short and the top U-joint is at a steep angle, but nothing too crazy. Pretty sure that is what is causing the vibes. Both U-joints are brand new and replaced when the driveshaft was built. It was balanced at the same time. I guess I will have to address this sooner than later. I can change the pinion angle a little bit, but not much, so I'm guessing having a double-cardin(double U-joint) set up is going to be the solution. I'll see if there is anything else that might help before spending $$ to have the driveshaft re-built.
Generally speaking driveshafts like that should have the yokes at each end at the same angle. Whatever the angle of the output on the transfer case, the angle of the pinion on the pumpkin should be the same. It appears the pinion on your axle is pointed directly at the output of the transfer case, which is what you'd want if running a double cardan joint drive shaft. Of course I'm going by how the picture looks, which might not represent reality, but it's a thought and something to maybe look at.
When I say they should be the same, naturally the axle end should be minus about 2 deg to account for axle twist under load.
GordoSmasho
Observer
For visual
This applies to standard slip yoke drive shafts. I think your current setup looks like the third example.
I think the easiest fix for you would be to add some leaf angle shims to rotate the pinion down a bit.
How big are the blocks you are running on those leafs. That is going to create some serious axle wrap and destroy those leafs over time.
This applies to standard slip yoke drive shafts. I think your current setup looks like the third example.
I think the easiest fix for you would be to add some leaf angle shims to rotate the pinion down a bit.
How big are the blocks you are running on those leafs. That is going to create some serious axle wrap and destroy those leafs over time.
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mgmetalworks
Explorer
Here is a good visual for the importance of proper driveshaft angles
brushogger
Explorer
That's the best example and demo of drive shaft angles I've ever seen. Thanks for sharing it!
chiliVANilli
Adventurer
Thanks for all the information and awesome video!!!!! I love the video, so very informative and fun to watch. Thanks again for both bits of info. I knew as soon as I put the drive shaft on that there was going to be an issue. First it is only about 27" long, and the out put and pinon angle looked wrong too. So, now I have to correct the angle as assumed and advised. I spoke the shop who made the driveshaft. He would have to source a slip yoke with a flange and then add the double cardan to the shaft. He said it sounds expensive. So changing the pinion angle is best for now. Also, one of the first items on my to do list was to get rid of the 4" lift block and get new rear leaf springs which will also help me correct the pinion angle.I have some pinion shims I can use until I get my springs, but only to see if it helps. Looks like I'll be spending some $$ soon, and time, too. Seems like I don't have much of either right now. It's still driveable for break in and shake down of other systems, but I won't be going far from the shop. Plus there is still plenty of other stuff to do until we get the drive line sorted out.