LR3 Seats stopped working!

#1
Okay, so here we go!

08 SE, no memory seats installed!

Both driver and passenger seats no longer work. The mirrors work and so does the lumbar pump in the driver seat. Both seats will not move in any direction.

No water or corrosion present in the door sills that I can see!

Checked the wiring diagrams and swapped out all the fuses with no apparent issues or changes. Checked the fuseable links under the hood as well with no apparent issues. Might just swap them just to be sure but thats a long shot.

Anyone have an suggestions? I did a CCF and code check and nothing is showing out of the ordinary on the GAP Tool.

Seats are stuck and I can't finish the sleeping platform dimensions until I get this sorted out. Again, no other problems anywhere related to mirrors, windows, door locks, etc.
 
#4
Did you check the connectors at the front?
I mean yeah I checked them but the odds both seats failed at the same time is quite odd. I guess I need to pull up the floor and start shooting wires. Is there a relay of some sort that ties them both together that I’m not seeing on the wiring diagram? I’m going to aren’t to jump power to the seat tomorrow and see if I can make it move hot wired.

Bang on stuff with a hammer for sure
That’s the next step bro!
 
#5
Oh and now my radio is not working unless I shut the truck off and back in and then it works a bit and shuts off. Lol

The plot thickens; when the radio drops off, I lose the mirrors too so that tells me its either in the body fuse panel or the main wire bundle down by the passenger door (potential ground problem).

More than likely, I am feeling like it has to be at the body fuse module or my body ECM is about to leave the party!

Any thoughts anyone?
 
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#7
Honestly not really sure just yet. It's a new Odyssey but I do not have a battery gauge in just yet until I do the Traxide. Tomorrow morning I'll brew up the coffee and head out with the meter and start seeing what the charge volts are looking like. I would not be surprised if I had an alternator problem again....LOL
 
#8
Intermittent wiring gremlins are the most fun to chase down. If your battery checks out OK. then check all your grounds. My friend had a laundry list of odd sensor problems on his 05, after chasing and checking things he starting back tracing all the circuits and found out the ground stud in the drivers front wheel well had sheared off, probably from the PO driving the truck on the bump stops with blown air suspension. A steel nutsert and a new bolt holding down the ground and all was right again.
 
#9
Here is where I am at today. Since I obviously have the entire wiring out of the console for my project, I am assuming something may have started there with all of the moving around. I will pin to pin those later since I have a new development and feel my "ground" theory is evident.

I updated my GAP Tool this morning since it's been a while, loaded all of the files and then ran it up. The charge system is cherry, no issues and I confirm identical readings on the meter and GAP. The Odyssey battery is only a few months old and it appears that my alternator is charging as advertised.

I then put new tail-light/brake-light bulbs in since I was running LED just to be sure since LR are so sensitive to anything electrical. I then reflashed all of the ECU's to make sure I was on a fresh start. FYI, the Bluetooth took 36 minutes, what a wait that was and not sure why but anywho.

As soon as I opened up the GAP post BCM refresh, a code popped up in the BCM for the "Battery Saver Relay Output Circuit" which to my knowledge (please feel free to correct me) could be any short or open ground on the backside of the battery relay (the entire truck). I then got an HDC fault which dropped the suspension to the stops. It did clear just fine, but my fears for power/ground issues is gaining traction as you all have advised as well.

My next step will be to see if the relay is good or not and since I do not play with relays due to the fact that heat can decide whether it wants to work or not, I will just replace it once I figure out which one it is! I figure if a tail-light bulb can make the HDC fail, then a shorted relay or single ground should have no problem shutting down half the vehicle interior controls.

Keep the advice coming, it's greatly appreciated!

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#11
I have a bunch of relays that came with a fuse panel that I bought. Let me know if you need any and I’ll send them your way.
@Georound What was the reason you bought a new fuse panel? I've read on LRR forums that a few people have had fuse panel problems requiring complete replacements.

I'm not sold its a relay yet as I have swapped a few out and still have the battery saver code and still no power seats. I also tracked down the TSB for the battery junction box (fuse box under the hood) and complied with that. I pulled the box out, verified ground, contact cleaned all of the fuse and relay areas, the reassembled with dielectric grease. I then Ohm'd out all of the relays and fuses regardless of how they looked and Ohm'd out the grounds in those areas. I am literally going line by line on each of the diagrams for Grounds so I will eventually get to all of them and their source under some of the floor panels.

I disconnected everything under the new console install and ohm'd out every connector and wire from the tunnel to the console components and back seat. Tomorrow or the next day, I will run pin to pin on everything that runs from the main console connectors to the central junction box under the passenger glove box and door kick. I will most likely take the passenger seat out as it makes it super easy to reach all of those wires that run under the carpet and over to the drivers side.

The seats work just fine so it could be a switch problem as I took another Odyssey motorcycle battery I have and used some jumpers to hotwire the motors to confirm they work; It also helped to get the seat raised all the way up so I can get under them for troubleshooting.

I know this is going to turn out to be something super easy, it's just a mutha to find that simple issue to make the fix. I'll swing by the FORD dealer tomorrow and pick up a bunch of new relays since they are all FOMOCO parts installed in Victory and much cheaper than across the street at the Green Oval Stealership!

More to follow!
 

ar4me

Adventurer
#12
If you had things apart in the tunnel or other area, and your problems started right after that, then I would look there. You might have switched two connectors or something like that - not sure about LR but I have seen it, and done it on other makes... Takes some time to find, but it happens that two sets of connectors fit each other... :( Except for that I would back-track from where the problem is. Power to the seat switch?, I assume not, and trace back from there. Start from a known problem and trace that to the source...
 
#13
If you had things apart in the tunnel or other area, and your problems started right after that, then I would look there. You might have switched two connectors or something like that - not sure about LR but I have seen it, and done it on other makes... Takes some time to find, but it happens that two sets of connectors fit each other... :( Except for that I would back-track from where the problem is. Power to the seat switch?, I assume not, and trace back from there. Start from a known problem and trace that to the source...
I couldn't agree more which is why I started with the console harness after I confirmed no blown fuses from the potential short. You are also correct in saying some connectors fit in spots they do not belong; the e-brake switch and the rear seat heater switches use the same connector, although different wiring, they can be swapped if one (meaning me) wasn't paying attention. There is a possibility that I may have swapped a seat heater for the e-brake last week and it is now causing issues with a potential relay or fuse or worst case, shorted a wire from one of the switches to the junction box; hence why I am pin to pin shooting every wire.

When I put it back together yesterday, I ensured the connectors were in the right spot, but I will be honest to say I did NOT do that last week. I find it hard to believe the e-brake would work (it has been) with that connector there but that remains to be seen. I did get an "e-brake" not recognized out of volt condition yesterday until I reflashed the ECU but that was intermittent so I can't assume that was anything other than a low volt indication. I'm just putting this out there as a potential, however, I do not believe this to be the problem since I know the e-brake harness is right next to the EAS/TC control panel and I feel I would have known I plugged a different connector in that was not wrapped the same either.

On that note, I plan to disconnect the seat heater switches for the rear and leave them open. If one of those is burned up, leaving it disconnected will keep the loop open with ground so I can isolate those to confirm if they work or not.

And to answer your question, NO, at this time there is no power to the seat switches so I jumped them off the spare battery to raise them up off the motor connectors so I could get under the seats and make room to pull the seat switches out.

More to follow today! Thanks for the advice from all thus far!
 
#14
I don't have an LR3, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express. Just a couple things to clarify.
In your posts, I see two statements that seem unrelated. You state in your opening post that you are working on completing a sleeping platform. Yet, in post #9, you state: "Since I obviously have the entire wiring out of the console for my project, I am assuming something may have started there with all of the moving around. "
Why would removing the entire console wiring be required to make a sleeping platform? Must be a very unique and creative design. Please post some pictures, unless you plan to patent your design and go on Shark Tank.
 
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