LR3 Exhaust Manifold GASKET Replacement

Has anyone replaced the exhaust manifold GASKETS on their LR3? When I ordered my suspension and trans filter parts, I ordered the left and right because I think my left is leaking a bit. Since they were not too expensive, I put them on the shelf. I am wondering if the best time to do it is when I do the trans filter replacement since I think I have to drop the CAT anyway.

I have not done either so I am looking for real world advice on the project for Exhaust MANIFOLD GASKETS.

Mahaloz my friends,

E
 

Ian_Barry

Observer
Mahalo E,

I recently replaced my transmission pan and did not need to drop the CAT to do it (but it would make access a little easier). Do you think that you have a leak because it makes a ticking sound?

Cheers,

Ian
 
Mahalo E,

I recently replaced my transmission pan and did not need to drop the CAT to do it (but it would make access a little easier). Do you think that you have a leak because it makes a ticking sound?

Cheers,

Ian

Not really a ticking sound. Sounds very similar to a header gasket leak I had on a previous vehicle. I understand the ticking noise could be timing chain issues correct? I do not believe that is the sound I am hearing though. It honestly could be coming from the header to CAT joint area. I'm just not sure yet.

What are your thoughts/suggestions?
 

ColoDisco

Explorer
First, you don't need to drop the cats to replace your trans pan and/or connector sleeve. Second, I have not replaced the manifold or gaskets, however when I worked at JC's British I followed my fellow technician as he did a set. What I learned is that you can maneuver them out where the cats sit when they are removed. For access to some of the manifold bolts you take the heat shields out of the fender wells (little aluminum pieces that fit together so they can be removed easily. I am not positive if he raised the engine (same trick for doing the trans pan) to remove the manifolds. You take the 13mm bolts out of the top of the motor mount, disconnect the intake hose to the air filter box, take the top fan shield off (all of which allow you to raise the engine). I have used screw jacks with a lift, but am certain you could use a couple floor jacks and some blocks of wood. Place a floor jack with wood under the driver side of the vehicle and place on the center diff just enough to lift the diff and remove the 18mm bolt to the center diff mount. Then run a floor jack under the front bumper and assuming you have removed both skid plates add wood and place under the oil pan. Alternating between both jacks raise the engine to clearance the trans pan. This process may come in handy for the manifolds as well. Only do one motor mount at a time and be careful lowering the engine back down. Leave a few mm before setting the engine on the mount to give you adjustment space to get the bolts started. I also add a little blue loctite to the mount bolts just to help secure them.
 
First, you don't need to drop the cats to replace your trans pan and/or connector sleeve. Second, I have not replaced the manifold or gaskets, however when I worked at JC's British I followed my fellow technician as he did a set. What I learned is that you can maneuver them out where the cats sit when they are removed. For access to some of the manifold bolts you take the heat shields out of the fender wells (little aluminum pieces that fit together so they can be removed easily. I am not positive if he raised the engine (same trick for doing the trans pan) to remove the manifolds. You take the 13mm bolts out of the top of the motor mount, disconnect the intake hose to the air filter box, take the top fan shield off (all of which allow you to raise the engine). I have used screw jacks with a lift, but am certain you could use a couple floor jacks and some blocks of wood. Place a floor jack with wood under the driver side of the vehicle and place on the center diff just enough to lift the diff and remove the 18mm bolt to the center diff mount. Then run a floor jack under the front bumper and assuming you have removed both skid plates add wood and place under the oil pan. Alternating between both jacks raise the engine to clearance the trans pan. This process may come in handy for the manifolds as well. Only do one motor mount at a time and be careful lowering the engine back down. Leave a few mm before setting the engine on the mount to give you adjustment space to get the bolts started. I also add a little blue loctite to the mount bolts just to help secure them.

Awesome, thanks for the write-up! Not a job I am looking forward to but has to be done and if I am in there with the mounts loose anyway, then why not at that point.

Are the engine mounts solid or rubber on the D3/4? The reason I ask is, maybe it would not be bad to do them at the same time if they are isolator mounts.

Thanks again,

E
 

ColoDisco

Explorer
I believe their rubber. Never replaced them as I've never seen them fail. I should also add you have to rotate the pan 90 degrees to slip it out. I believe clockwise. The pickup tube just skims by the base of the transmission. If it is not clear keep jacking the 2 jacks a little at a time until it clears.
 

Ian_Barry

Observer
What are your thoughts/suggestions?

I would listen to ColoDisco as that was pretty thorough. :costumed-smiley-007

I did not need to lift the center diff or the motor to complete the job, but I was also willing to skin my knuckles to avoid doing it.

The "ticking/gasket noise" is something I have, so if replacing your Manifold->Cat gasket fixes it please let me/us know. I'm pretty sure it's the one on my passenger side (NAS) which one is it on yours?

Cheers,

Ian
 
I would listen to ColoDisco as that was pretty thorough. :costumed-smiley-007

I did not need to lift the center diff or the motor to complete the job, but I was also willing to skin my knuckles to avoid doing it.

The "ticking/gasket noise" is something I have, so if replacing your Manifold->Cat gasket fixes it please let me/us know. I'm pretty sure it's the one on my passenger side (NAS) which one is it on yours?

Cheers,

Ian

Great information from you both. I will have access to a lift and screw jack if needed but I surely do not want to take anything off I do not have too.

With that said, mine sounds like exhaust on the driver's side (NAS). I'll let you know what I figure out for sure when I do get to it but it wont be for a while since I am shipping it next week and it takes a month to get to Cali on the boat.

On another note, I've been watching the Jag videos on the timing tensioner replacements. If I find that mine is a timing chain issue (tensioner), I'm prepared to do the job myself if I can get the cam tools. The tools are the hardest part of the job, the rest is just like any other timing change once the cams are locked into the correct clocked position.

HINT HINT to anyone who wants to rent them to me! lol

More to follow!
 

Shoggin

New member
Hello E, Hello All,

Did you have a chance to replace the manifold gaskets yet? I have the same exhaust leak and believe it is the bolts coming loose, and would love to hear from your experience as I'm scratching my head a bit over the best way to get access to them.

Best Regards,
S

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Hello E, Hello All,

Did you have a chance to replace the manifold gaskets yet? I have the same exhaust leak and believe it is the bolts coming loose, and would love to hear from your experience as I'm scratching my head a bit over the best way to get access to them.

Best Regards,
S

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Unfortunately I have not gotten to it yet. I will surely post up my process when I get to it though. I plan to do both sides and pray it's not the timing adjusters. Lol

I'm almost to a standstill on the house project and plan to get to it within the week.

Cheers

E
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
I believe their rubber. Never replaced them as I've never seen them fail. I should also add you have to rotate the pan 90 degrees to slip it out. I believe clockwise. The pickup tube just skims by the base of the transmission. If it is not clear keep jacking the 2 jacks a little at a time until it clears.

Are you saying that raising the motor a bit is required for the engine mounts replacement but it also is a way to make the manifold gasket more accessible? Thus being good things to do at same time? I assume this is just an inch or so sort of distance moved up?

When doing bigger work under there I put the whole thing or at least the front end in this case up on 24" 12k stands mounted just under each slider sill near front wheels. If just the front, I'd probably find spot that would lock them into position better with it being at an angle. I also then keep a couple 24" floor jacks under whatever I'm working on just to be safe. I have 2 more I could use for the engine movement itself though.

Any chance you could post a photo identifying the key bolts and lift points mentioned? No rush, but would be highly appreciated. Mine is at 130k and my service rep mentioned I should do the motor mounts sometime probably sooner than later.
 
Did you by chance ever complete the manifold gasket replacement?

Yes Sir! Here is the link to the write-up; hope this helps you out some! PM me if you have any questions or feel free to drop them on the gasket thread since many of us have done this now and found our own little tricks. I'm pretty sure the US LR3 and LR4 are the same but I can't confirm as I do not have an LR4.

Also, there may be some confusion as to some comments we had about the suspension being in or out of the vehicle. My suspension was already out so my clearance issues were much better to deal with as I had open wheel wells to accomplish the manifold gaskets; this was a complete convenience factor for me and planned into my suspension rebuild for this reason alone. I am told it can be accomplished with the suspension in the vehicle, although I wish that pain on nobody....lol

My suggestion alone, if you have your suspension out, this is the time to do the manifold gaskets!

LR3 (Maybe LR4) Manifold Gasket procedure!

Cheers!
 

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