Low amp, wet location connection for truck bed

shade

Well-known member
I have a GFC camper on the bed of my Toyota Tacoma pickup, and I'd like to mount a recessed outlet in one of the bed cubbies so I can bring power to the camper for a few LED light strips and small device charging - no more than a 15A load.

To simplify delivering power to the composite truck bed, I'll run two conductors, and I'd like to use 10/2 AWG to minimize voltage drop and keep all of my accessory wiring the same.

I'm also considering buying a new modular crimp tool, and it'd be swell if it could be used for this connector. If not, please recommend a good crimp tool for whatever connector you like, too.

I specified "wet location" due to the possibility of an exterior connector getting wet, but I doubt I'll ever have water in my truck's bed as long as the camper is installed.

This is a follow-up thread to one about using a higher amp connector in the same location. Thanks to those fellows for the insight they provided.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Deutsch DT series if waterproof is needed, better than Weatherpack.

But usually just standard Anderson PP is fine
Agree on all of that.

Will say this, Weatherpack gets the job done and nice thing is NAPA stock them (at least my local one does), so when you need a different gauge terminal on a Sunday or run out of seals...
 

shade

Well-known member
Thanks for all of the advice.

Looks like Anderson Powerpole will get every accessory job done I can foresee, and the Compass Marine crimper is the best value. I'll get the MC4 dies at the same time, since I'll eventually need them for solar panels.

I agree with Anderson connectors. Not so much to meet your amperage needs but do to your conductor size choice. 10 awg is on the large size for weatherpak, metripack, even Deutsch connectors.

I would use the SB50 connectors with the environment sealed boots.
https://powerwerx.com/anderson-powe...29m!#-!307&pageSize=90&orderBy=0&pageNumber=1

If you need a mounting bracket to use with the sealed boots
http://absolute-wits-end.com/search.php?search_query=SB50&section=product&page=1

Those Wits' End options look nice, but I was considering this panel connector for a cleaner installation. Is there an advantage or disadvantage either way?

524891
 

shade

Well-known member
note genuinedealz.com does the (top quality) crimping for you too at $1@

measure twice
I know myself better than that, but thanks for the suggestion. I'd also have a heck of a time getting those connectors through grommets.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Marine domain called clams

aka water-tight Cable Glands / Cable Bushings / Cord Grip Connectors

key modifier word is split, so the bushing gets assembled after the terminal is crimped, large connectors easily passed through the "grommet" hole

with Strain Relief more secure

just FYI
 

shade

Well-known member
Marine domain called clams

aka water-tight Cable Glands / Cable Bushings / Cord Grip Connectors

key modifier word is split, so the bushing gets assembled after the terminal is crimped, large connectors easily passed through the "grommet" hole

with Strain Relief more secure

just FYI
Interesting.

Since some runs are using the OEM glands that are already installed quite firmly, I'd still have a problem if both ends were crimped before installation.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
I am a fan of using an aluminum or stainless panel (say 3-6" square). Then attaching sealed flush mount connector housings to that. This removes a lot of the annoyance of putting wires/terminals through small holes, and you can rework the panel to accommodate different items (switches, connectors, lights etc), without have to cut new/different holes in the vehicle/boat/cabinet.

6061 alclad aluminum is easy to work with if you have a small reciprocating metal saw.
 
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shade

Well-known member
I am a fan of using an aluminum or stainless panel (say 3-6" square). Then attaching sealed flush mount connector housings to that. This removes a lot of the annoyance of putting wires/terminals through small holes, and you can rework the panel to accommodate different items (switches, connectors, lights etc), without have to cut new/different holes in the vehicle/boat/cabinet.

6061 alclad aluminum is easy to work with if you have a small reciprocating metal saw.
Hmmm ... I have a reciprocating saw ... and I never cared for that stop sign at the corner ...

If I didn't have a bed cubby to use for a mounting plate, I might make one out of aluminum. They're fairly useless for anything else, but work well for tucking outlets out of the way. I'm not surprised Toyota did away with them.

524996
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
I put the panel where the door for the little cubby next to the 120VAC outlet in my TRD used to be. There's a 6-slot Blue Sea fuse panel behind the panel and currently just the lock point socket outlet for my fridge.

The two little over wheel cubbies are where I stuff spare trash bags, rags, etc. Since I have a topper and they are not open in the back like the storage compartments at the rear so thing stay dry inside.

One day I'll replace the socket with one of those dual Powerpole outlets but I keep finding better things to spend $25 on. I just feel like it's robbery to price them that high and I'm probably the only person in the world who hasn't come to hate the stock socket. It's nice being able to move the fridge between the truck and other cars with factory rear outlets like that.

524997

It's funny, BTW, that you mention the stop sign... I have several old street signs I got when a parking lot was being developed. Street sign aluminum is actually really good stuff, most of the time it's 5052-H38 and 0.80" thick. Machines well, easy to weld. It's not the absolute strongest alloy but great for stuff like this. The printing usually comes off pretty easy with any solvent, acetone, brake cleaner even.
 
Last edited:

shade

Well-known member
I put the panel where the door for the little cubby next to the 120VAC outlet in my TRD used to be. There's a 6-slot Blue Sea fuse panel behind the panel and currently just the lock point socket outlet for my fridge.

One day I'll replace the socket with one of those dual Powerpole outlets but I keep finding better things to spend $25 on. I just feel like it's robbery to price them that high and I'm probably the only person in the world who hasn't come to hate the stock socket. It's nice being able to move the fridge between the truck and other cars with factory rear outlets like that.

View attachment 524997
Those PP outlets are a little spendy.

I carry my fridge in the curbside rear passenger space on a slide, but I may still add a standard 12V power point to the rear of the bed. It's too common to completely ditch. For my fridge cord, I'm thinking about ordering another to convert to Powerpole so I can go both ways. That would also make it less likely that someone would unplug the fridge from the center console to charge their phone (again).

What bed stiffener brackets are those? I've considered adding some if the GFC frame doesn't keep the bed sides together.
 

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