Little mods/upgrades/additions that make a big difference
- Thread starter AFBronco235
- Start date
Awning LED Strip
know that the LED lighting strips have been shown before, here its in the top of the leg trough of the awning. i got the multi color ones that can be switched between white or red (or any other color) and dimmed with a remote. (or there is a multi color flashing mode just in case a rave party or disco just happens to break out in the campsite) on order is a non remote micro inline switched controller so i dont need to keep track of the remote.
know that the LED lighting strips have been shown before, here its in the top of the leg trough of the awning. i got the multi color ones that can be switched between white or red (or any other color) and dimmed with a remote. (or there is a multi color flashing mode just in case a rave party or disco just happens to break out in the campsite) on order is a non remote micro inline switched controller so i dont need to keep track of the remote.
rich1833
Observer
An article I made back in 2011 on a different forum when I had a different jeep but still works. I might even do it to my new jeep. It cost alittle over your given budget but not much.
I've been messing with my lights lately. I just added a new set (driving). After that I got a wild hair and tested the volts at the headlight. I came up with 11.4 volts motor off. So I made a new harness for it. Yesterday I went to auto store and bought a few things to start.
15 feet on 10 gauge wire= $5.55
2 x 30 amp relay= $9.98
Fuse block= $9.99
10 gauge connectors= $4.00
total= $29.52
minus military discount 10%= $2.95
For a grand total of= $26.57
You could do it cheaper but I wanted the nice fuse box. You only need two fuses. You could also use the cheaper 12 gauge wire.
Here is a pic of the fuse box it holds 6 fuses.
And the relays. I still need to get two sheet metal screws to finish it off.
I rechecked the system after and got 12.55 volts on drivers side and 12.54 volts on pass side with the motor off. If you want to test your system take a large gauge wire and hook it to the positive post on the battery. With the lights on touch the wire to the headlight (metal post on the back of the headlight). The very top post is the low beam. Watch the light get brighter.
I've been messing with my lights lately. I just added a new set (driving). After that I got a wild hair and tested the volts at the headlight. I came up with 11.4 volts motor off. So I made a new harness for it. Yesterday I went to auto store and bought a few things to start.
15 feet on 10 gauge wire= $5.55
2 x 30 amp relay= $9.98
Fuse block= $9.99
10 gauge connectors= $4.00
total= $29.52
minus military discount 10%= $2.95
For a grand total of= $26.57
You could do it cheaper but I wanted the nice fuse box. You only need two fuses. You could also use the cheaper 12 gauge wire.
Here is a pic of the fuse box it holds 6 fuses.
And the relays. I still need to get two sheet metal screws to finish it off.
I rechecked the system after and got 12.55 volts on drivers side and 12.54 volts on pass side with the motor off. If you want to test your system take a large gauge wire and hook it to the positive post on the battery. With the lights on touch the wire to the headlight (metal post on the back of the headlight). The very top post is the low beam. Watch the light get brighter.
chasespeed
Explorer
6$ bottle opener on bumper...
Great mod, and a great brew. I prefer the Censored myself.
Still haven't found a spot on my WJ to mount a bottle opener yet though.
Chase
rich1833
Observer
Buddha.
Finally in expo white.
LED interior lights, theres like eight or ten of them in this thing so the price adds up though. Major improvment, i can find stuff now! Also added brighter exterior lights, different bulbs have differant part numbers but are brighter and still share the same plug in. You dont want to use LEDs here though, they arent as bright and dont light up the lens right and they aren't legal for this use either.
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Lucky j
Explorer
Guys, just be carefull with Hockey pucks.
They are very sturdy for what they are made for, but can crack and brake over time. There is a difference between using them for hockey and drilling them and mounting them to support weight.
So,e giys up here even used them as body lift. But they are not made to be compress all the time.
Good post, keep them coming!
They are very sturdy for what they are made for, but can crack and brake over time. There is a difference between using them for hockey and drilling them and mounting them to support weight.
So,e giys up here even used them as body lift. But they are not made to be compress all the time.
Good post, keep them coming!
kwill
Observer
What about little cheap mods to go in or with the vehicle? Should this be a separate thread? Oh well, here is one I've found quite handy. I took a cheap flood light and first attached a plastic clamp to it. Then I wired it with a 2 prong connector and made two different types of hookups for the end: 1. a standard power plug when using it in the rear of the vehicle (I have outlets); 2. battery clamps when using it under the hood or around the front of the vehicle. It has about 8 feet of wire on it but I also have a 10' extension cord so I can use it well away from the vehicle for things like cleaning game after dark.
