Lightweight OffRoad Trailer build ideas

lacofdfireman

Adventurer
Looking to build an Off Road trailer to pull behind my 2012 Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited Rubicon. I’d like to use my same wheels and tires (35’s) that I have on my Jeep now. I’d like the trailer to be a 4x6 frame with maybe 24-30” sides and a roof capable of holding a RTT.

I’m searching for lightweight ideas for this build. What are your thoughts for using angle iron for the frame or maybe even C Channel? What gauge would would we the minimum you could get away with for the frame and not be to worried? And what about the size and gauge of the tongue capable of fitting in a max coupler inside the tongue?

As far as the sides go what are your thoughts of using say Trex decking instead of sheet metal. We’ve never skinned anything so the thought of using sheet metal is a little worrisome for us since we’ve never welded anything that thin before. But I’m sure with a little practice we could figure it out. What other lightweight options are out there for sides and top of lid that would be strong enough to do the job. Also considered doing 2x6’s but figured it would be really heavy.


Still in the planning stage at this point but weighing my options. I know that wranglers don’t have a big towing capacity so hopefully trying to build something in the sub 800lb range. That way when loaded we would be maybe 12-1400lbs max.


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PirateMcGee

Expedition Leader
Look at the venturcraft trailblazer. I have one but they are near impossible to find. Might give you some good ideas.
 

mudraider

Adventurer
Well. If you're looking to save weight, do it in the right places. Square steel is going to give you the strength you want, right? The frame needs to be sturdy. 2" backbone. 1 1/2" side frame. 1" uprights. No fenders. Aluminum outer skin, riveted on. Forget about rhino lining it, that adds weight. Minimal electrics. Good cooler. Are you really out there long enough a good Rtic or a Yeti wont work for you? Instead of a 270° batwing, how about some tarps, 550 cord, and some Ebay tent poles? Huge weight saved there. You want the convenience of a cool trailer, but understand the weakness of your jeep. Angle iron, c-channel are not the long-term answers you are looking for. EVERY SINGLE ITEM will need to be scrutinized before you put it on the trailer. And inspecting it frequently for issues.

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rnArmy

Adventurer
Mine is built off a very modified and reinforced Harbor Freight type trailer frame. It is fairly thin C-channel, but with the aluminum tub it is pretty sturdy. The Jeep is only rated to tow about 1500lbs (four cylinder); fully loaded I think the trailer weighed about 1250 lbs.drive_13.jpg
overland rally.2.jpg
This picture taken at the 2018 NW Overland Rally.
 
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ratled

Adventurer
Have you seen this build? 410 also has a 7 part build series on one too elsewhere on his channel. That ought to keep you busy for a few 4 days!

 

john61ct

Adventurer
Mine is built off a modified Harbor Freight type trailer frame. It is fairly thin C-channel, but with the aluminum tub it is pretty sturdy.
What's the heaviest load rated trailer out there these days,

within the cheap mass-produced category?

I know lots have now been taken off the market
 

jscherb

Expedition Leader
...As far as the sides go what are your thoughts of using say Trex decking instead of sheet metal. ...Also considered doing 2x6’s but figured it would be really heavy.

If you're looking to build a lightweight trailer Trex and similar decking products are probably not what you want - composite decking is twice as heavy (or more) than real wood:

12-foot length of 5/4-by-6 decking would weigh 12.83 pounds (redwood) or 10.54 pounds (cedar).

12-foot length of 5/4-by-6 Trex weighs 27.5 pounds.


Here's where those facts came from: https://www.hunker.com/12000357/composite-decking-weight-vs-wood
 

john61ct

Adventurer
See the "foamie" forum on TNTTT.com if you're **really** looking for lightweight.

Keywords PMF, glidden, titebond, canvas
 

rnArmy

Adventurer
What's the heaviest load rated trailer out there these days,

within the cheap mass-produced category?

I know lots have now been taken off the market

I think they were taken off the market d/t issues with the tires not being DOT compliant. At least the ones sold by Harbor Freight.

Mine initially was rated at about 1000 lbs (maybe a little more) on my 4' trailer. But I swapped out the axle for a wider 3500lb axle with electric brakes, and put longer springs with a final rating of about 1150 lbs rating. And reinforced the frame & extended the tongue. The factory slipper springs on these 4' trailers and 4x8' trailers that HF or Northern Tool & Equipment sell really have no flex to them - they will beat up your trailer and its contents when off pavement. Kinda like the early leaf-sprung Jeeps - longer and more flexible springs are better than short and stiff springs.

But to answer your question, I think the HD (non-folding) HF 4x8 trailer frames were rated about 1750 lbs (with essentially a 2000lb axle). Northern Tool has some wider trailer frames rated about the same. They are easy enough to cut-down to a 40" wide by 72" long frame (same size as the WWII trailers) and go from there. Narrowing the frame will have the same effect as widening the axle, so if you're on a budget (and don't care about electric brakes), this is one way to go (to give you clearance for wider rims and tires). And you'll still have the 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern (same as a Jeep YJ or TJ or ZJ). The folding 4x8' trailer frames are rated for a lot less.
 
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opp

Observer
this trailer comes in at 245 lb. fiberglass over foam .a off road trailer was built came in at 352 lb. 4.5 w 5' h 10'' long 35'' tires 2 by 2'' tube framePicture 376.jpgPicture 360.jpg
 
Looking to build an Off Road trailer to pull behind my 2012 Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited Rubicon. I’d like to use my same wheels and tires (35’s) that I have on my Jeep now. I’d like the trailer to be a 4x6 frame with maybe 24-30” sides and a roof capable of holding a RTT.

I’m searching for lightweight ideas for this build. What are your thoughts for using angle iron for the frame or maybe even C Channel? What gauge would would we the minimum you could get away with for the frame and not be to worried? And what about the size and gauge of the tongue capable of fitting in a max coupler inside the tongue?

As far as the sides go what are your thoughts of using say Trex decking instead of sheet metal. We’ve never skinned anything so the thought of using sheet metal is a little worrisome for us since we’ve never welded anything that thin before. But I’m sure with a little practice we could figure it out. What other lightweight options are out there for sides and top of lid that would be strong enough to do the job. Also considered doing 2x6’s but figured it would be really heavy.

Just use square tube steel. Angle iron twists. C-channel isn't lighter than square tube unless you're going really thin, which goes back to structural issues. Main base and tongue out of 2x2 .093 (2.1# per foot). You can probably get away with 1" or 1.25" square tube for the frame. Or 1x2. Simple box shape shouldn't exceed 150# before all the wheels/axles/attachments/skins/racks.

If you're not going to be in bear country, you can just skin the trailer with sheet aluminum or steel, 20-22 gauge. Attach with pop rivets, no welding required. Floor of trailer can be either 3/4" good plywood, sealed, or a thicker gauge steel plate. If you plan on a tub with a lid, you can do a piano-hinged piece of sheet metal with some simple latches. You won't be able to stack anything of significance on it, though. Build a separate rail or lift platform for the RTT to sit on.

I spent years building and working on late model race cars, and if a bare chassis weighs 400# with a lot more steel, a completed (but unloaded) trailer shouldn't weigh much more than that, if at all.

Last year I weighed all our camping gear and it came in at about 400#. And that's everything (extras and stuff we've never used but take JIC) except food, drinks, water, and ice. I can pare that down to 300# easy. Add a RTT (150-200#), cooler & food (<100#). With ~400# trailer, I'd be theoretically at 1000#.
 

mudraider

Adventurer
You guys are really making me rethink how I will build mine. Scored some nice aluminum boxes, with a total size of 48"x61". I was WAY overbuilding it.
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