Lifeline Batteries: Long Term Review and Capacity Test

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Here is some data on my Lifeline battery bank.

Specs:
2x GPL-8D 255x2=510AH
Wired for 12V
Charged by 640W solar array and outback controller
Charged by Alternator fed with 2/0 and 4/0 cable (~13.9V, later modified to 14.2).


I did a capacity test today. As I didn’t feel like spending 8 hours doing the 25A (50A total) test, I connected a 100A load and did a C/5 rate test.

C5 Capacity Test.png

Take a look at the table below. The numbers should speak for themselves.

These 8D batteries delivered 166AH before dropping below 10.5V under a C/5 load. The battery averaged 60F during the test. Based on the lifeline capacity-discharge-temperature plot, a new battery would deliver about 90% of new capacity at 60F.

Lifeline Capacity vs Temperature.jpg

Based on the discharge rate plots, the C/5 rate would deliver 80% of rated capacity. So the battery should deliver 0.9*0.8*510AH= 367AH
Lifeline Capacity vs Discharge Rate.jpg

My batteries delivered 166AH 166/367=45% of new capacity. Now the battery did recover to 11.9V with about 10 seconds of the load being removed. So obviously there was still significant capacity left. Based on lifelines OCV vs DOD charts, I would estimate the batteries had another 25% of capacity left. This is probably inaccessible due to low plate porosity driven by low charge rates. A couple recharge cycles with 400A+ charge rates would likely make more of this capacity available at the 100A discharge rate.

So the adjusted capacity of my bank is about 221AH, or 221/367= 60% of new (at C/5).

So how many cycles has this battery delivered?

The bank has delivered 74kAH. We have been using the van regularly for around 700 days. 74,000/700=106AH average cycle depth. That is 510/106= 20.7% DOD average. So 700 20% cycles is a rough estimate. Lifelines Lab testing shows over 2000 cycles to 20% DOD. But that is only to 80% of new capacity! If I used that metric my batteries only delivered 350 20% DOD cycles!

Since I first setup the MATE, the system has spent about 240days (5760 hours) at “100%”. About 2000 of those full hours occurred during our full-time travels.


At a cost of about $1400, that comes to a cycle cost of 2$ per cycle. Or better thought of as 74,000kAH/1400$=52AH delivered per dollar.

What would I do differently? Early on I misunderstood how the MATE charge termination works. Because of this the absorb charge was often terminated before the return amps condition was met. How much this degraded the batteries, I will never know. This is a VERY common issue with solar and shore power chargers, so I suspect this type of capacity walkdown is endemic to the full-time off grid RV/Marine industry.

So, I would keep charge voltages near the high side of recommended, sometimes higher for charge regimes that are not optimal. For highly stressed batteries perform a recovery charge for about ¼ the recommended time every 6 months (if called for by resting voltages).

Do not terminate the absorb phase until return amps drops below 0.75% (ideally 0.5%) of rated capacity. This means less than 0.75A for a 100AH battery.

Go with lithium. Given that decent lithium setups can be found for around 7-10$ per AH, and 2000 real world cycles. Or 900$/200,000Kah= 222AH delivered per dollar.

Obviously, it is the partial state of charge cycling, and not enough true 100% charges that reduced the cycle life on my lifeline batteries.
 
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jonyjoe101

Adventurer
on those batteries I would crank up the bulk voltage to 14.6 volts or even higher, in the manual it said 14.2-14.6 volts , I don't know why they even put 14.2 volts as acceptable bulk charge rate. If you have voltage drop from the charger to the battery it will always be undercharging. On my 102 ah agm I was float charging at less then 14 volts for years. My charge controller would read 14.4 volts but the voltage at battery was less then 14 volts. If you have voltage drop you might be charging at 13.6 volts or less.
Nowadays I check the voltage at the terminals and compensate by increasing the bulk voltage on the controller to over 15 volts to get my battery fully charge. I had a .5 volt drop. When on solar I keep the float at 14.4 volts, when on solar the higher float voltage won't damage the lead acid, it will actually extend their lives.

The performance from such heavy batteries is lower then many people would expect. Especially when you have plenty of solar to keep them charged up. But at lighter loads, you might get better amp hours out of them.

But your results don't surprise me, if the batteries are weak from chronic undercharging, when you put a heavy 100ah load on it, as the voltage on the battery drops, the load will take more amps out of it to compensate for the lower voltage. This will drain the battery even quicker.

Theres a good video on youtube that shows the same thing that you encountered, the video name is "Lithium battery test versus Gel." But on this test they apply a massive 280 amp load and ran it until the inverter shutoff from low voltage. The 100 ah gel battery lasted barely 6 minutes, and at the end it was consuming almost 325 amps to compensate for the lower voltage. The 220 ah gel which is closer to what you got didnt do much better.

100 ah lithium
94ah usable

100 ah gel lead acid
31ah usable

220 ah gel lead acid
73 ah usable
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
on those batteries I would crank up the bulk voltage to 14.6 volts or even higher, in the manual it said 14.2-14.6 volts , I don't know why they even put 14.2 volts as acceptable bulk charge rate. If you have voltage drop from the charger to the battery it will always be undercharging. On my 102 ah agm I was float charging at less then 14 volts for years. My charge controller would read 14.4 volts but the voltage at battery was less then 14 volts. If you have voltage drop you might be charging at 13.6 volts or less.

I am familiar with the voltage drops and charging regimes. In this case the voltage drop to the batteries was nil with all chargers. My solar charger was configured originally for 14.4V, but has been adjusted to 14.6 a year ago. Float charging was per the spec at 13.3V, but I have it at 13.4 now. Really on a daily cycled bank charged by solar there should be little or no float time in any given day, considering it takes 6 hours to get back to 100% SOC.

But your results don't surprise me, if the batteries are weak from chronic undercharging, when you put a heavy 100ah load on it, as the voltage on the battery drops, the load will take more amps out of it to compensate for the lower voltage. This will drain the battery even quicker.
I am not really worried about the change in amps as much as the capacity delivered (compensated for temp and puekert.

Theres a good video on youtube that shows the same thing that you encountered, the video name is "Lithium battery test versus Gel." But on this test they apply a massive 280 amp load and ran it until the inverter shutoff from low voltage. The 100 ah gel battery lasted barely 6 minutes, and at the end it was consuming almost 325 amps to compensate for the lower voltage. The 220 ah gel which is closer to what you got didnt do much better.

Obviously a load of C or even 2C is going to do crazy things to a lead acid battery. In my case my loads never exceed C/3, and a C/4 load is not a big deal for a lead battery.

I don't think the batteries were chronically undercharged as a percentage of charge cycles. But the reality is that lead batteries suffer significant capacity loss of partial or deficit cycles as a very high rate.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
For a short time...like a year...Battery MINDer sold their desulfator circuit as a standalone unit. Then it just quietly disappeared.

My guess is that since their biggest charger is only 8a, a lot of people only really bought them because they wanted the desulfation. By selling the desulfator separately, those probably sold like hotcakes with a corresponding drop in charger sales...so they just decided to stop selling the desulfator separately.

Too bad...I really wanted that because most desulphators run all the time, but their's would only come on at 12.9v+.


https://www.batterystuff.com/blog/on-board-desulfator-battery-minder-vs-pulse-tech.html
 
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luthj

Engineer In Residence
I have performed the "equalize" recovery charge several times. I am running another one now. The current has trended up from 1A to 1.5A over the last hour, so some sulfate is coming off. I have used various desulfators in the past. The results were limited on batteries that still have a resting voltage above 12.4V. If I had a few months to put these batteries in storage I would consider putting one on, but these are in use most of the time, just lights and fridge sometimes though.

The van will be put into medium term storage/hibernation in a few months, so I will evaluate what to do then. I have been mulling a custom ~300AH lithium build, so these may get retired.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
A 3 month desulfate conditioning may help, as there is evidence of sulfation.

I ran a C/20 capacity test after the conditioning charge. The batteries delivered 57% of new capacity (temp and rate adjusted). I am not living in the van currently, so no pressing need to find a solution, but I may try to condition these batteries some.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Lifelines are great, but in 2023, I would not pay money for anything but lithium iron.

X2, for most applications an drop in LFP battery is superior.


if so are they suitable for my 30amp flying cloud and what experience have you had with them.

My Lifeline pack was replaced with a larger (capacity) LFP pack almost 3 years ago, and I haven't looked back.

If you are killing lead acid batteries quickly, you likely need to address your charging regime. Lead acid does not like sitting partially charged, and needs to be brought up to 100% charge at least once a week when in regular service. This means 4 hours at >14.4V in many cases. Most/many chargers are not set up properly and thus kill lead acid batteries prematurely.
 

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