Let's Talk About Heating our Trailers.

[R_Lefebvre]

What's wrong with the other type of tent heater I've seen people using. Looks like a heat exchanger with a duct into the tent?

 

[WMac]

What's wrong with the other type of tent heater I've seen people using. Looks like a heat exchanger with a duct into the tent?

Rob, theres nothing wrong with them. Me im ljust ooking for a "better" solution.

The other issue is what you descdibed, is the potrable heater made by Zodi.

Zodi abruptly quit making these a year ago with promice's of a new improved model by October 2008. and a year later. nothing.

Im looking for a "Real Heater/furnace" for my Expedition Trailer w a RTT.
Now Im all excited about Martyns reply............God I hate it when he does that.:coffeedrink:

 

[mrlocksmith]

Having just gotten back from a four day prospecting trip in the Stanislaus Forest near Yosemite, I found my warmlite sleeping bag to be a godsend at night when it got down to 28F at the campsite. But it would have been nice to heat my OasisII RTT and perhaps an enclosed awning space. That would make it easier to get going in the morning instead of staying in your sleeping bag. I am waiting to see what AT trailers is cooking up, it sounds nice.

Mark

 

[Martyn]

Martyn, I can't disagree with anything you've posted. That's why I run it only in an environment where I have a CO detector/alarm and adequate air exchange. I have even intentionally closed everything up and run it for long periods to see if I could get the CO levels up, and have never succeeded in getting the level above about 50 ppm. Believe me, I tested thoroughly before I actually accepted that it was safe. I have no desire to be a dead camper.

One of my campers has a wall mounted catalytic heater. It came equipped that way from the factory. That one I DO worry about, even though they were used in campers for decades and we don't see CO poisoning deaths attributed to them. I have also installed a CO detector/alarm in that camper as a safety measure. The Buddy heaters are clearly much safer than these old cat heaters.

I am a very cautious person, and don't take unnecessary risks. Reasonable caution and common sense should prevail in situations like this. Only a complete moron would use an open combustion appliance, catalytic or not, in a tightly sealed environment.

By the way, I think what you meant to say in your opening sentence was "Catalytic Heaters DO NOT produce carbon Monoxide under normal operating conditions."

Jim

I'm glad you run a CO monitor.

The testing of the catalytic heater specifically said that the unit gave off low levels of CO under normal operating conditions.

 

[skysix]

It also was conducted in a SEALED room - not even the best made hard sided camper out there is that air-tight! The heated air and CO will rise, so if a roof vent is open... And in a tent - it just escapes through the walls. But a fresh air intake path is a good idea - like the small flaps on some tents for pets to go in/out / boot passthrough etc.

That said I wouldn't use one without a CO detector - just in case. My biggest issue was the furry members of the family who would get to close and singe their tails - or bump it and shut it off (winter camping at 0 degrees or lower in a Finnish canvas tent made by SOPU - about 8' square). But it sure made getting out of the sleeping bag easier in the AM!

 

[pygmyowl]

The install that I slapped together required that I remove the AT fuel can holders (I have plenty of room in the bed of my Tundra for spare fuel), and mounted the Espar unit (inside a 20mm Rocket Box) and a 10L Scepter can to hold the diesel in there place. I used the 10L Scepter, as the pulse fuel pump mounted more readily on top of the can than a 20L Scepter, and the thing is so efficient that a 10L is about all I would need. The fuel burn at high is .4/L Hr or about 20 hrs, and at medium .25/L hr or about 32 hours (and this assumes only 8L usable), and I can always refill the little 10L from a larger can if need be.

I used a hole saw cutter to cut a return air and heater holes in opposite sides of a 20mm Rocket box and ran the exhaust and combustion air intake out the bottom of the box and routed the lines opposite from where the RTT folds out. The D4 fit perfectly inside the Rocket box and is bolted in. I installed marine deck plates to close up the return air and heat holes, and the hole unit seals up real good for transport and I can place the lid on while it is running if say it is raining or snowing out to protect the unit.

The thermostat has a temperature sensor integrated in it, so I just take it up to the Eezi Awn 1800 tent on top of the Horizon or inside the awning with the three walls. Heating the tent up is way fast and you need to put it on low. If you really wanted, you could bring up a fresh air return duct into the tent , as then already warmed air is returned to the heater but the unit is so efficient I just have the unit suck cold outside air in. You can also set the thermostat to fan mode only, and it blows in a surprising amount of air to help cool things down.

The vast majority of folks couldn't justify one of these, as I have over $1,500 invested in it, along with the high altitude kit, but I can move it quite easily to a FWC shell model or possibly the new AT Clamshell which I might purchase someday, or it would be fairly straight forward to order a new fuel pick up stick and plumb into a diesel tank if Toyota or some one ever comes out with a small diesel for a Taco, or something like that. In any case the build quality of the Espar unit is incredible and should last a long time.

Scott MacButch

 

[WMac]

The install that I slapped together required that I remove the AT fuel can holders (I have plenty of room in the bed of my Tundra for spare fuel), and mounted the Espar unit (inside a 20mm Rocket Box) and a 10L Scepter can to hold the diesel in there place. I used the 10L Scepter, as the pulse fuel pump mounted more readily on top of the can than a 20L Scepter, and the thing is so efficient that a 10L is about all I would need. The fuel burn at high is .4/L Hr or about 20 hrs, and at medium .25/L hr or about 32 hours (and this assumes only 8L usable), and I can always refill the little 10L from a larger can if need be.

I used a hole saw cutter to cut a return air and heater holes in opposite sides of a 20mm Rocket box and ran the exhaust and combustion air intake out the bottom of the box and routed the lines opposite from where the RTT folds out. The D4 fit perfectly inside the Rocket box and is bolted in. I installed marine deck plates to close up the return air and heat holes, and the hole unit seals up real good for transport and I can place the lid on while it is running if say it is raining or snowing out to protect the unit.

The thermostat has a temperature sensor integrated in it, so I just take it up to the Eezi Awn 1800 tent on top of the Horizon or inside the awning with the three walls. Heating the tent up is way fast and you need to put it on low. If you really wanted, you could bring up a fresh air return duct into the tent , as then already warmed air is returned to the heater but the unit is so efficient I just have the unit suck cold outside air in. You can also set the thermostat to fan mode only, and it blows in a surprising amount of air to help cool things down.

The vast majority of folks couldn't justify one of these, as I have over $1,500 invested in it, along with the high altitude kit, but I can move it quite easily to a FWC shell model or possibly the new AT Clamshell which I might purchase someday, or it would be fairly straight forward to order a new fuel pick up stick and plumb into a diesel tank if Toyota or some one ever comes out with a small diesel for a Taco, or something like that. In any case the build quality of the Espar unit is incredible and should last a long time.

Scott MacButch

Thanks Scott.

Thats the kinda concept im talking about. and not that one would have too. but ive talked about "mounting it while at camp" so looking at your picture as a referance. I would find a way to mount it, say under the tounge on that AT. just to get it off the ground.

But this is EXACTLY the concept Im talking about.:wings:

Thanks for the great post.

 

[saburai]

Truck mount options

I've been watching this thread with great interest.

I am constantly in awe of the diverse and expert knowledge base to be found here!

I'm hoping to apply some of what I am picking up in this thread for use with an Autohome Extreme mounted on the roof of my XJ.

Any suggestions for a RTT truck mount application would be most welcome...

 

[spressomon]

I have the Webasto diesel heater, which is almost identical to the Espar pygmyowl mentions above, in our Kimberley Kamper and it works perfectly. Turn the thermostat and it comes to life. They mounted the thermostat at the end of about 3' of wire so that you could move it around; easily turn it on, off, up or down from your sleeping position . They have incorporated a tiny muffler which does its job perfectly. It is rated at 7k BTU and will heat a decent sized space.

Yes these are not cheap by any means. But if you really are out many days in cold temps they are the cats meow!

 

[SunMan]

Haven't seen any mention of the Olympic brand catalytic heaters here...any reason? Been considering one for my FWC.

 

[WMac]

Haven't seen any mention of the Olympic brand catalytic heaters here...any reason? Been considering one for my FWC.

Hey Sunman, Cause were really not talking about Catalytic style, more along the lines of "Forced air Furnaces" thats why. Stay tuned tho....Good stuff here.


Oh MARTYN.........:coffeedrink: Come out and Play....:bike_rider:

The suspence is Killing me.

 

[WMac]

Just an Easter Bump for a great thread, and my own selfish desire to stay warm. :ylsmoke:

 

[Martyn]

Hey Sunman, Cause were really not talking about Catalytic style, more along the lines of "Forced air Furnaces" thats why. Stay tuned tho....Good stuff here.


Oh MARTYN.........:coffeedrink: Come out and Play....:bike_rider:

The suspence is Killing me.

More info at the Overland Expo on the high efficiency propane units.

Details on our web site after the show.

 

[WMac]

More info at the Overland Expo on the high efficiency propane units.

Details on our web site after the show.

With all of the High Quality and well thought out componets you two come up with Martyn, I Cant wait to see what yove done and will be offering, and incorparate it into my trailer.

 

[WFTW]

I just camped up in Memphis this past Friday night where it got quite cold at night. The campsite I stayed in had electricity, so I plugged in the heater and ran it all night...worked FANTASTIC. I stayed nice and warm and didn't even use my sleeping bag...just an old Army poncho liner.

Yes, the duct work the the unit goes up into the tent, which doesn't bother me in the least. The tent will be permanently up there...no reason to worry about the two holes that were drilled into the bottom for the ducts. The mattress I had was modified by Top Stitch (Fernandina Beach, Florida) so that it lays flat and does not interfer with the ducts (nor vice versa).

I must say, the set-up I have is probably the best out there right now (my personal opinion, not meant to offend others). The unit is small, light weight, efficient, and cost effective (only $500). The only thing I haven't tested it out on yet is running it on the generator. The A/C is 300w and the heat is 600w. Since the generator I have is 1000w, I'm guessing I could run the heater for about 6 hours...the A/C much longer.

The WFTW Jeep and trailer will be at the Overland Expo in a few weeks as a feature vehicle. For those of you who attend, you're more than welcome to stop by and check out the heat/air conditioning unit for yourselves. If you cannot make the Overland Expo, then just hit one of the more than 20 WFTW events around the country.