La mia Africa Live


La mia Africa Live......

The photos are fantastic. How about a story?
Sorry but I do not speak English .....
My Africa alone
From my travel diary

My Africa Live ...

During the second month of travel, everything began in early December when it arrived in Djibouti to clear the 4 vessels that were taken off in early November.
The three Toyota cars of my friends and my Defender together will take a quick ride to Khartoum then to the Western desert to go back through the Bayuda Desert to Meroe and get off to the Sudanese capital where my friends will leave the cars as I return Ethiopia from where I am writing.
In Djibouti it has been quite stressful to stay for 20 days, not so much to live but for all the customs practices that have been made above all if documents like ours were made wrong, but in the end I succeeded and the cars were taken to the parking lot By Vittorio a friend met at Djibouti at a good Italian restaurant.
The city is not bad but it's all very pricey for sleeping and eating european prices x eating and then a hot beast even though here it's winter and from 1 am to 5 am it all stops and all or almost hang in some hole to drink and chew The Katts then all rantled.
In the evenings, however, big parties and all around because here among Japanese American bases in Japan and many others there is a great casinos always full and nightclubs complete with lots of babies ready to relax and massaging you a great casino in the true sense of Word, there is also the best hotel in the area the Kampischi that after visiting I do not understand how it can be full of sailors of various Italian nations and since it costs over $ 300 a night I wonder who pays the account of the simple sailors.
For security there is no problem all the same I also met with Yemenites who assured me that going to the town of Obock I could have asked for the visa and take the ferry to Yemen and cross it without any problem, the thing tries me thinking then On return however I repeat the problems in North Africa for those who long before you can get to Iran and then get to Dubai and with less than $ 300 you come here, I met two Germans who did it, in short begins to Be the easiest way to get here if you want to go a long way off the ground.
However the days spent in Djibouti were pleasant though very expensive and somewhat boring despite the busy life of the city that is why while I waited for my travel companions I went with Alex a Frenchman met here first north on the beaches Almost deserted to the north and then to the Assal Lake, a real desert of salt and the road to get very panoramic the advice for those coming from here.
While I was expecting to go to the Somaliland region but I found it hard to go anyway for the rest everything went well and my travel companions arrived right away we went off the Etiopian border.
The paved road full of holes slows down a lot of time x getting there and in addition there are hundreds of trucks that need to be overtaken.
We arrive in the morning in the morning and in a short time we can safely enter Ethiopia and start the long crossing that will take us to Sudan. Here the roads are beautiful and you can go fast enough even if you have to be very careful about the people and animals on the road.
With friends, it's all right and seeing their little time in three days we arrive at the Sudanese border at Gallabat and here we are stuck in the land of no one x about 16 hours x bureaucratic problems and closure frontier that eventually through knowledge in Khartoum we can pass and Continue to the capital.
So far this is all good unless a change of one of Toyota's engines is broken, and then in a single day a complete new gearbox is replaced and replaced in just a few hours.
Here Toyota abounds and finds it all at low prices while x Defender is almost nothing. The next day, the western desert is to the north, the first piece is on a paved road, then goes into the plateau Jebel Abiyad and for four days we turn in and meet only a few camels with her camel herd.
Stefano, who knows the area well and has been several times in Sudan, leads us to a fortress abandoned by the name unknown to me but from the magical atmosphere and here we pass a very good last year and then go to bed a bit all Crooked seeing the abundance of wine and more ....
The next day we go on off the track by passing through various stones and by crossing the many small dunes that are there, then passing on a zone of fossilized trees, there are many grinds that are all very large or broken however nice to spend the day at Look for and look at these millennial objects then finally get to Dongola and you pro Follow to Karima that after visiting it we go back to a beautiful off-white desert Bayuda Desert for me is the area I liked most here too many stones and many wadi to cross ... the best place a hidden guelta in a magnificent place near To a volcano difficult to see even at a few hundred meters x fortune Stefano knew the perfection where he was, the miles begin to be so many and the days too fast so it is time to start returning to Khartoum where everyone will return to Italy except me. First, however, the mandatory stop at the pyramids of Meroe where we make a nice field in a very nice place and as usual before the nanna a good meal and much wine. The very beautiful pyramids in a nice area though almost all destroyed x half, in the morning you continue the only problem finding fuel, it costs very little 3.11 but it is difficult to find and in fact very little I do not stay dry. It's easy to find in the capital, but without any other problems we get to the city where the day goes by to clean up the means that are left out except for a Toyota that is cleaned up to change with a new crew that will return with me to Ethiopia and then They will even get down to Tanzania but they all run with the three-week time. The last evening dinner at a Lebanese restaurant and after a greeting to Stefano, Arrigo, Ludovico, Fabrizio and their lovely ladies. Well now I'm almost alone and x fortunately the car is still good save the loss of little water from the O-Ring of a radiator ..... it starts but still races enough to stay with the two new friends Roberto and Rita. You return to the border and in two days we arrive at Lalibela x spending Christmas Copt on 07/01/14, I'm a little sick of running and then I stand alone x three days to rest at Lalibela while the two friends if They go south. Now I'm just really and so having all the time I want to go calmly and I finally start to start photographing as I want and with ease from Lalibela but with the intention of returning to TimKat I head to Kombolcha where I arrive late at night To sleep in the parking of a small hotel, so far nothing new and having time I head to the next day to Bati where usually on Monday there is a nice market I do not see but that I had seen years ago even here nothing new Except the very dusty track and start seeing Afar populations. After the country I decided to go to Mill from where I was past, but much harder to get on both the track and the many Afar that I meet in the street, had it done alone and that everything went well I did it Quieter even in the evening, stopping in a small village becomes an attraction when my Land roof gets up and gone to bed, all watching them. The next day south to visit Afar populations and lead me to an even warmer place and finally without the Awash mountains, because mountains were fed up in northern Ethiopia almost always travel up and down from 2000 mt to 3800 mt and climb Heavy as I am doing a lot of effort. Finally I arrive at Awash and head to the National Park where I stay x three days camp and only with Korean and Struzzi. The waterfalls are very beautiful and many animals in the park, gazelles, crocodiles, Dik Dik, Kudu the waterbuck (the black antelope) baboons and Orix. Of course, photographing them is difficult if you do not have a nice cannon that I do not have, as you approach if they go running despite trying not to let me see and hear. Since the thing I do not miss is the time I also try to go and photograph the nomadic shepherds Kereyu always looking for new pastures and always moving inside and outside the park. Even here the three days pass fast by resting me and paying very little parking in the Lodge, the only problem with the water loss increases and then I decide to go to Addis Ababa looking for a Land Rover dealer I can not find anywhere, everyone tells me no But I really do not even find a well-equipped mechanic until I decide to go to one of the many Toyota workshops but the case wants me to find a mechanic workshop with good mechanics and expert staff while on the other side of Addis Bad to a few hundred meters from the workshop I notice losing a lot of oil. In the end believing the worse I was already thinking about the worst things that could happen was just the oil filter loose, I do not know why it is the first time I happen, however in a few hours O-Ring changed and tinned with black pasta, filter Oil in place and general control of everything. Total cost 16 euros and since there are and that with all the hurry to leave I have forgotten an air filter I hope I will get it tomorrow, since there are days trying to find one but nothing to do.
Defender TD5 here I do not think there are any.
Tomorrow I go north I do not know exactly where, maybe back to Lalibela for TimKat the road is still long and the months to stay in Africa are so many ..
Finally departing from Addis Ababa heading north again, getting out of town is always difficult and chaotic, in recent years the small transports from one country to the other have made it simpler for the inhabitants of many small villages, there are a lot of small big bikes And super filled with all sorts of goods moving everywhere, causing a slowdown every time at every stop, not counting so much cattle on the road, and one morning while driving safely I could not avoid two sheep running right And to the left they stuck under the car at the moment, instinctively on the brake, but then thinking about all the problems that would jump out of me I went away quickly dispiaing for the damage brought to the poor shepherd but better so if I stopped I would have lost several hours to discuss with the many people who would come in a few minutes, explain to the police and then wasted time Ncora x treating the price of damage after a few hours even this little accident was forgotten and in the evening I got to Kombolcha and went to sleep in the parking lot of the small hotel where I had already stopped last month.
This city located in the Amhara region seems to be identical to the nearby town of Dessiè 20 km northwest the two modern countries are the last in the valley before climbing the northern plateaus and mountain areas, even during the period of Italian colonialism The city was equipped with a post office, a station, telephone lines and other conveniences to help the settlers at that time.
Leaving the city in the morning, the road began to rise more and more, up and down, climbing up small descents and then getting more and more to unknown valleys and mountains to get to a junction where the track began to take me back to Lalibela once again to attend To the great party of Tim Kat.
Three days of feast, procession rituals to commemorate the baptism of Jesus in the Jordan.
When I arrived in the country I immediately looked for a place to camp and stay quiet without being assailed by the many curious who came when, as usual, they saw the roof of my Land getting up.
On the first day the party starts in the morning with the exit of each procession church Talbot copies of sacred tables with the ten commandments.
The Talbots are covered with damask fabrics of various colors and after a journey followed by hundreds of faithful brought to a ceremonial tent where all the night praying songs and dances will feel throughout the country during the three days during the day I photographed I went to sleep, rested and put my car in place which always had something to fix or clean.
Then suddenly I wanted to leave and move as soon as possible from that area and the desire was to return to Dancalia, but there was a problem and it was that I would have to charge three soldiers and a guide to go there, totaling 5 people , But as a cabbage I load all these people, I could have loaded at most two or maybe three but x only a few hours not sure x 4 or 5 days.
This is one of the problems that you create to travel alone unless you pay a rented car for them but x me is too expensive, it made me piss off not so little and then I changed the way quickly without thinking much and after a few hours I was a 'Another time directed to Mill.
The road goes uphill through hills, forests and valleys, always meeting shepherds and animals that are constantly in the middle of the road, then slowly descends, leaving space for valleys and large plains.
At Thousand, continuing the south-facing road crossing an area still inhabited by Afar, which arrives after about 600km to Awasch. This region is located to the north east of the border with Eritrea and Djbuti is a predominantly arid region with temperatures that can exceed the 50degree and desert areas located at 60m below sea level, only descending towards Awasch begin to find cultivated areas and villages Of nomadic shepherds who make long shifts x to supply water.
When I finally arrived near the beautiful park, I'm going to rest for three days in the lodge of the park near the famous waterfalls, always full of half-world tourists who come to do birdwatching and to see the many animals in the park.
Even here no one travels like me with his car and in fact all those who see me are still surprised to see a car with a European license plate and even more surprised when they are talking about finding that trip alone.
Ever since I left my friends at Karthum I'm getting used to living alone in my traveling home and I find myself getting more and more like a wild one, I try to spend as little as possible to be as far away as possible and to go see Places and populations far from civilization, but this every passing day is getting harder, even for my passion as a photographer it is now difficult to find people with unusual habits and customs, however since I have time and know enough of these populations I finally managed to photograph many really cool characters. In the park I make friends with a park guard that twice drives me to visit the area populated by many Orix, gazelle, Dik Dik and Kudu, which, say the truth, accustomed by many tourists do not even escape, to a certain extent Away when you get too close in a moment disappear in the thick vegetation anyway a nice place to visit, to rest and to be quiet without being besieged by the many people that are there when you stop x the road.
After the three days I went back eastward to go to Harar where I was many years ago. The city is located at 1800 mt and to get there from one hill to the other through the many small countries that seem to never end. The city is much changed and modern, chaotic traffic and no longer the charm it had a few years ago. After parked in the parking lot of a small hotel, I spent the first day visiting Arthur Rimbaud's museum house, explorer, writer, gunman and coffee shop but tired of his desolate life at 30. The days here also went fast in the small streets of the old town without a hurry and without a real destination, only at sunset I went to see the famous Khat market, the local drug that everyone here buys and consumes without any problems. The country has, however, changed a lot in recent years and to tell the truth I did not like the last time I was there and then I went back to the same way. When I got to Nazareth I changed the way to the south towards Goba and go to see the Bale National Park, at the beginning a runway with many holes but then the road improves but rises more and more, and in fact my Land Strawberries make a lot of effort to climb and Overcome the many bends that we have until reaching the 3800mt of altitude. Even here I am camping in a Park, staying only one night, the cold is tremendous despite my Webasto being lit for several hours. On the second night I went to a well-equipped and very nice Lodge here I thought I would stay and visit the area by taking good excursions but as usual things never go as one thinks because in the morning I had noticed a small oil outlet from Rear differential, first a little close to the nut and .... the hit nut fell inside the differential, it was the first time I did it, then disassembled everything and put the oil as I tightened a last bolt this split up to Half of all these breaks in the Land I got used to it and I do not take it too much, even though I always think that if it does not break this one breaks something else and there is always something that has to go wrong or make you lose Time the problem is that I'm alone and if there was something serious it would be a big big problem. Even in this case, I am prepared for it when I started knowing that there are many chances that if one is alone can lose the car x a robbery or anything else that can happen in distant and distant areas, it is not a trip Organized or group that most people do around, and then doing the two or three weeks is one thing, staying around for months is another, I met people who if after a few days do not shower Or they do not go to the hotel seem to die but I do not understand these things, however coming back to me after the problem with the differential not completely resolved and with a broken bolt I went back to Awasa where I settled it all, I did a good general control to be ready To go down south to Yavello, this is the main road and I had read it all asphalted, instead a street crap all over holes attached to the other, many animals and many people on the road, in short a Struggling to drive in that crap of the road, better the track, and in fact arrived, immediately took the x Konso track. The distances here seem close, but even the few hundred kilometers made in these mountain slopes or hills seem to never end, to rest in fact I leave the car to photograph whenever I encounter some interesting and therefore travel times stretch, In this piece of track though few people met, the area is quite deserted. I finally came to the Ethiopia area that I liked for the populations that I have and the next morning I went along the Runway to Turmi where on Monday morning there is a nice market where Hamer and other populations in the area come to sell Or trade their products.
The Hamers live by cultivating grain, millet, tobacco and barley, raising cows and goats, and women are "famous" for their hairstyles that make their hair spread over a mixture of fat, butter and red clay, but men decorate their heads Of clay and with ostrich feathers. Like the Suras and other people are masters in body decoration, any ornament has meaning, I've read that the number of earrings that bear mean the number of wives they have, women wear or wear many seashells or beads attached to the dresses Coming from the Red Sea, married women around the neck have a heavy metal collar with a phallic shape is a quiet population and this day spent at the market was one of the most beautiful x photographed here however there is an obligation as throughout the valley Of the Omo, before taking you you have to bargain and pay, these are low figures, normally the many tourists who are seeming to be afraid to reject the figures that ask for some normally I more than 3 Bir do not even at the cost of quarreling but Every now and then, seeing the problem of change money arrive at 5 (20 cent) per subject.
After the day I go to sleep near a hotel and despite the bad thoughts the night passes quietly. In the morning I head back to the village of Jinca near the Mago Park, here and some tracks where there are small villages perched on the hills, there is no one around the village, only the bivouac is a problem, unfortunately I would need a good GPS instead of my old Street Pilote who unfortunately only lights up when he wants and so I normally travel by looking only at the old Michelin 745 map. Upon arrival at Jinca I see the country is telling the truth is disaster and then I look for Immediately place a place to camp and think about what to do in the next few days.
Speaking to one of the many curious curious people who came to the car, I made acquaintance with a nice young guy who knew the area well and agreed with him x go to the Mago Park and go to some Mursi villages, all for 250 bir (about 10 euros ). Early in the morning, nasty surprise, it rains, but fortunately after a few hours the sun returns, and along the red ground you begin to meet the Mursi with their designs, colors, and women with the famous labyrinth of wood or Clay and often also inserted into the ears lobe.
At the entrance to the park after paying about 350 bir (14 euros) I would have to load a security x Ranger but seeing the traffic of local travel agency cars that brought so many tourists I thought it was useless and so with my young friend I started Along the very wide and beautiful track, so much so that considering the work in progress I think that in a few years will come asphalt.
After about 70 km finally a first Mursi village, in these villages it is better to enter in the morning, unfortunately the men of this ethnicity drink from the morning a handmade beer made with fermentation of sorghum and mixed with chili, which makes them aggressive, annoying and Dangerous and since almost all of them are armed with Kalaschnikov you have to be careful and avoid discussions. These guns are located and sold quietly in nearby markets and cost less than $ 100 and all come from neighboring Sudan, however, everything went well, a beautiful day filled with emotions and great encounters. In the evening, I return to Jinca and stay in the same place the night before. This day has drawn me to the morality that sometimes loses when there is something that does not go lucky little and at dawn everything vanishes and you return to the urge and strength to continue and never stop.
But I've been traveling for three months, and done 13,000 km with a Land that has 26,000 behind it, it's time to stop for a while before continuing south through Kenya and Tanzania and give a good check on the car, so after only a week I I found in Addis Ababa to park my car and wait for the plane to take me home (for a short time) ...
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Hi everybody ..... I want to try to go to Juba passing from Kapoeta and photograph the populations of the area ... we made a good cut we started ......... as always from this part of Kenya there are areas where the Turkana and Pokot cannot be hurt and disputes and shootings are on the agenda due to the various thefts of cattle both on one side and on the other, ... it is difficult for me to talk about what I saw and what I did. It seems useless to talk about it because the situation in those places is from hell and my journey was certainly not a trip as a tourist vacation or even if at the beginning I thought of a trip like many other facts, with the passing of the days it was just a curious visit to see how the local populations survive without anything and how they manage to share moments of tranquility and moments of terror. and this makes my arms fall and makes me want to think about a quiet life in our modern society where nothing is missing ..... unfortunately those who have too much and those who have nothing .... after a few hours I was in trip to the country that made us the base for the various trips .... Kapoeta a small town where there is the little "well-being" that there is ....... in this region I have not found a meter of asphalt, there is no electricity a terrible heat and only in a few places there is water ..... the wells are few and all near the town in the northern areas there are many Jiè villages about 15, or o people who do not have water and are saved only because in some places there are real pools that when it rains those few times a year are filled and people go every day to refuel and even get several kilometers with 25 kg in head .... . unfortunately even the few animals go to drink and the water does not last long ..... and no one cares and none of the great powers does nothing .... and in Italy they worry and break the ... x 50 poor wretches that by comparison are ...... better than I talk about other ..... Toyota had a lot of trouble. ... clutch pump that lost and along a track the 3 broken crossbow sheets .... I had to do 40 km at 5/10 at the time ....... in the meantime I shot with a 78 of an association. .... the populations very beautiful and calm I think that in some villages many had never seen neither a white one nor a camera ....... the very narrow tracks with a lot of sand. I think that during the rainy season no one passes by ....... in the north we wanted to go off track to find an old military road so as not to take the same road even on the way back ...... it was not so much a thrill for the off-road but because the forest covered everything and to do 80 km it took us 5 hours including about 15 km with brambles that I think no off-roader would have passed ...... with my car I would not have done even one meter, if I can put a piece of footage ..... for now it's enough because I don't even know if it starts.
28/01 / 19.I do not know very well what is happening in these areas and I do not know international politics ..... but here I write down what my friend Roberto wrote about the area since he is going to help these people by many years ... Our area, Kapoeta, is fortunately spared from armed clashes, but the State has collapsed, with the currency that has devalued in 5 years from 6 to 190 Pounds per dollar. Result: the paralysis, indeed a whirlpool of economic crisis that devours the few resources of a people among the poorest in the world; so no salaries and cost of living to the stars. We found hunger, with the village people eating a soup with some wild berries a day ... for the whole family. The war has also caused the NGOs to flee to Kapoeta, creating a vacuum: the broken wells are not repaired, the schools are empty because the teachers are not paid. Only large organizations remain: UNICEF truck columns are bringing food, but in the refugee camps life is bitter. The question is: why can't you stop this useless war? My answer will be simplistic, but unfortunately it cannot be denied: because South Sudan has oil and there is competition to exploit it, because the diatribe on the borders with northern Sudan remains frozen in this way, because from these misfortunes the arms lobbyists and someone in neighboring countries makes money, even from the massive presence of large international organizations. For most people, war is a tragedy, but not for everyone. But even in this dramatic situation, the reception was great and for our friends there, even our little help is precious.
This is the political situation ..... but for my journey even if it was tiring it was all very nice ..... the heat, however, was felt and when it reaches 42 degrees you look for the cool even in a bottle of water warm ..... luckily no mosquitoes in the evening and since 6.30 there is already light in the evening at 9 is already cooked and immediately to bed ...... Andrea Scabini

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