L322 Overlanding Build and Adventures

RR876

New member
#1
Hello everyone,

I've been reading about a lot of interest in the L322 but not a lot of support from aftermarket suppliers. I have set out to build my 07 RR Supercharged for overlanding and intermediate level off-roading. I hope to share my experiences and encourage others to try the same with this awesome vehicle.

Base Vehicle:
2007 Range Rover full size
4.2 Supercharged Petrol/Gasoline
Factory centre and rear locking diffs

The modifications, so far:
Reprogrammed suspension heights (~2" lift overall including tyres)
Copper Zeon LZT 285/50R20 Tyres
Rock sliders - custom DIY
Rear drawer storage (fridge slide for Dometic/Waeco CFX65DZ, two large drawers and storage shelf) - custom DIY
Roof top tent - Maggiolina AIrlander+ medium size
Awning - Rhino Rack 2x2m
AIr compressor - ARB in engine bay
Auxiliary battery - Optima blue top in rear

To do:
Rear tyre carrier including Hilift and Maxtrax mounts
Winch mount and winch
Body lift (perhaps another 2")
Underbody protection

I will write up the details of the drawers and rock sliders build if there is interest.
 

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#2
A 2 inch lift and possibly another 2 inches with a roof top tent, I am guessing you do not put it in a garage of standard height.
great looking additions to a capable vehicle.
 
#3
So what is the hilift going to lift off?

I dwell on putting mine on my rear carrier and then realize I doubt I’d actually use it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

RR876

New member
#4
So what is the hilift going to lift off?

I dwell on putting mine on my rear carrier and then realize I doubt I’d actually use it.
Excellent point. I expect to only use it with the Lift-Mate to hook onto the wheels and to have it available for emergency winching. I might add a lift point on the hitch mounted rear tire carrier that I'm planning right now. it has to be strong enough to take the weight of the car since it will be the first thing to hit when sliding off ledges.
I also carry the standard scissor jack all of the time and a 6 ton bottle jack and jack stand when going off road.
 

RR876

New member
#5
A 2 inch lift and possibly another 2 inches with a roof top tent, I am guessing you do not put it in a garage of standard height.
great looking additions to a capable vehicle.
Indeed. I am about 4" too high even if I drop the suspension onto the bump stops. She has to sit outside all day now and I can't easily get the tent off the roof.
 
#6
Can I ask why you are running your suspension taller than OE? I posted a thread recently in which we discussed specifically how running topped-out has no net advantage other than looking cool. In fact, you're just beating up your CVs and air components more, while losing downward travel. Your photo showing you floating the left front wheel is something I struggle to do in my LR3 has the articulation is so good.
 

RR876

New member
#7
Can I ask why you are running your suspension taller than OE? I posted a thread recently in which we discussed specifically how running topped-out has no net advantage other than looking cool. In fact, you're just beating up your CVs and air components more, while losing downward travel. Your photo showing you floating the left front wheel is something I struggle to do in my LR3 has the articulation is so good.
My suspension is set 20mm higher than standard at the front and 35mm at the rear. The 285/50 tyres provide another 15mm to give a total of 50mm (2”) at the rear. This is far from topped out I’ve played with settings another 20mm higher but didn’t like the trade off in on road stability.

The extra lift provides a significant improvement in ground clearance, break over, approach and departure angles. In the off-road setting I have around 13” of ground clearance. I find that this helps the vehicle’s rock crawling ability.

The rear lift also helps avoid the right rear tyre rubbing the inner liner and the left rear rubbing the guard lip when in access mode. I’ve been running this setting for about 40k miles. I understand that the CVs may wear prematurely, but seem to be fine so far.

The image showing my front left wheel off the ground was taken after climbing a ~2’ step with the right rear wheel in a rut. All of the other cars in the convoy (standard and modified D1&2s) also lifted wheels here. I took a different line to get through after the photo was taken.

On this particular trail (Hell Hole Reservoir trail in the Californian Sierras), I reached the limit of my vehicle’s capabilities half way through, as did the standard Discos. I was ultimately limited by ground clearance and would like to get further next time.
 
#8
It's certainly a trade off between clearance and and articulation. 20/35mm is a pretty minimal amount (I missed the part where you were taking tire diameter increase into account).

I'll be having fun in the dirt this weekend, I'll play around and see if I prefer the clearance over the increased downward travel. Either way it's definitely not a 50mm rod lift type deal.
 

RR876

New member
#9
DIY L322 Rock Slider Build

Design targets:
- Side sill protection
- Door protection
- Chassis rail protection
- Side step to access roof mounted items
- Jacking point - under sill and from step
- 100% bolt on fitment



The finished product, freshly painted and ready to mount.



Steel specs
- Main slider tube 3x2x3/16”
- Nerf bars / push off bars / side step 1.5x1.5x3/16”
- Chassis brace 3x2x3/16” angle



Attachment to original jacking points on sill utilizing modified 2x M16 class 10.9 bolts inserted into original elongated holes. The sliders include a pin to locate the slider and restrict the M16 ‘T’ head from turning. Attachment to chassis rails using existing 2x M8 captive nuts.









Under body view showing bracing back to chassis rail.



More build photos











Original plastic sill panels cutout to fit over sliders to allow lower door seal to function as intended.



Result of testing at Hell Hole Reservoir (Californian Sierras). I had the side of the vehicle suspended on the rails over rocks at times. Lots of scratches to the rattle can paint job but zero vehicle damage. A light sanding and a squirt of paint and they’re good as new.





Lessons learned:
I should have extended the sliders a couple of inches further forward and rearward to provide better protection for very sharp drop offs. Otherwise, I’d build the exact same design again.
 
#12
#13
Steve, does Lucky 8 carry them? These prospeeds seem to be out of stock every time I look at them, and how much would it cost to get them to the states? $1800? $2k, for a set?

Even if I was in the UK, they are insanely expensive at $1200 a pair. The sliders I put on my Disco were $800, and they weren't even the cheap ones!

I'd love to get some sliders for the L322, but something < $1k if possible.
 
#14
Any decent fabricator can make some for way less than 1k. Great to see someone wheel an L322. I saw the truck a few weeks ago in the sierras. Nice build!
 
#15
Steve, does Lucky 8 carry them? These prospeeds seem to be out of stock every time I look at them, and how much would it cost to get them to the states? $1800? $2k, for a set?

Even if I was in the UK, they are insanely expensive at $1200 a pair. The sliders I put on my Disco were $800, and they weren't even the cheap ones!

I'd love to get some sliders for the L322, but something < $1k if possible.
So I spoke with Prospeed, they have yet to begin selling them because they are trying to gauge Interest on them to ultimately see if it is worth it... So they require us to buy a minimum quantity at least so once we decide on how many we are getting and then we would be able to put together a group buy.

Most likely they will have to be at least a little over 1000 but if we could get a group buy going it would be cheaper for everyone involved.
 
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