Killed another water pump, less than 1500 miles on it

Salonika

Monterror Pilot
MLS= Multi Layer Steel. MLS gaskets are usually labeled as such.
Got it, so like a head gasket type…..I have no idea what kind I used other than as I said, it would have been whatever I got from RockAuto. Would RockAuto sell more than one type?
 

Michael Brown

You followed me, so now we're both lost
The Dayco brand gaskets on RockAuto are layered paper/fiber gaskets. They dissolve over time and leave behind residue that must be scraped off so a proper gasket will seal.
Aisin and other quality pumps should have had a layered metal gasket.
 

Salonika

Monterror Pilot
Update: it may just be a leaky radiator hose. I did a pressure test engine off and only found one source so far. An intermittent spurt from upper hose. It’s amazing how a pressure test without the noise and vibration and air flow of the engine running helps to see things you otherwise couldn’t see. I put 10psi on it, let it sit, ran it a bit, sat some more, no coolant leaking from water pump area.
 

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Salonika

Monterror Pilot
New radiator hoses installed today, test drive complete. No leaks……a little more test and drive to do, observing etc, but 95% sure it’s fixed. $45 pressure test tool was well worth the money.
 

Michael Brown

You followed me, so now we're both lost
Glad that you found a fix. Mine had the leaking water pump o-ring, but the small hose to the overflow tank was also clogged. So when it did run low, it never pulled replacement coolant. The level would just stay the same. Once I cleared the hose, it started drinking the tank in about a week until the parts I needed arrived.
 

Salonika

Monterror Pilot
This one was tricky, because the leak was intermittent. And with the engine running the leak was blown all over so it was hard to pinpoint. Once you shut it off and walked away, it would drip RIGHT into a spot that would trickle down underneath timing covers and it left no evidence topside. I suppose I could have done dye or something but I didn’t think I needed to since I could clearly see green coolant all over underneath. MAN am I glad I didn’t need to redo my WP and timing job only 1500 miles after last time. The pressure tester was key here, both for doing a leak down test overnight and for spotting the drip with engine off.
 

DSSA

New member
All the stuff I am reading online points to contaminated coolant being top of the list. You can’t really overtighten the belt since it’s self adjusting with timing belt…..and the gasket is pretty easy to work with. I did replace the o-ring on the pipe that goes to the back of motor. Plus, no leaks at all down there for 1500 miles. Then boom, it starts leaking. Last pump was seized when I removed it in September 2021.

Glad to hear that you found the issue and it wasn't the water pump.

Aisin is the OEM manufacturer for Mitsu pumps, so it would be hard to blame the pump itself.

The timing belt aspect though is a good thing to note though--they can be (and often are) over tightened.

If you're doing it yourself, the goal is the find equilibrium with the hydraulic tensioner. if you over-tighten it and compress the hydraulic tensioner past the pinned height, you're adding more stress on to all of the components it runs.

A "perfectly tensioned" belt would be tightened to the point where you can remove the pin on the tensioner, crank the engine by hand several revolutions, then install the pin back in the tensioner. This would give you full travel on the tensioner for future belt stretch. That said, if the tensioner is a *tiny* bit extended, that's preferable to it being compressed. I've never seen hydraulic tensioners become fully extended if set correctly--the belt will typically snap well before it will stretch to that amount.
 

CharlieNorth

Well-known member
MLS type? I would have used whatever I got from RockAuto……
Rock offers a selection for most items, it is your choice as to what you get from them, buy the cheap stuff, you get cheap stuff, buy the good, pretty good chance you get good stuff.
 

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