Keep It Simple Solar

dreadlocks

Well-known member
one of the really nice features of Victron app on your phone is it gives you stats and data broken down in a way that's very easy to understand, what you'll do out in the field is learn how much power a day you need to meet your needs, and then when you setup at a new site and position your panels you can review their performance at the end of the day and know right away if you need to find a better spot or you got enough extra you could mebe run the lights a little longer w/out worry.

its also future proof since you can reprogram it for basically any battery chemistry or size, firmware updates are easy through the app so your not stuck with any bugs or issues the controller was shipped with.. its a buy once, cry once kinda deal that gives you a bunch of features you've yet to realize the benefits of.
 

FosterWV

Baller On A Budget
one of the really nice features of Victron app on your phone is it gives you stats and data broken down in a way that's very easy to understand, what you'll do out in the field is learn how much power a day you need to meet your needs, and then when you setup at a new site and position your panels you can review their performance at the end of the day and know right away if you need to find a better spot or you got enough extra you could mebe run the lights a little longer w/out worry.

its also future proof since you can reprogram it for basically any battery chemistry or size, firmware updates are easy through the app so your not stuck with any bugs or issues the controller was shipped with.. its a buy once, cry once kinda deal that gives you a bunch of features you've yet to realize the benefits of.

Victron appeals to my tech side, never thought of that!

“Buy Once Cry Once” is awesome LoL
I don’t mind to it’s just I don’t need a grenade in a water ballon fight. I’ve seen that pros and ordering the 75/15, and Renogy 100W panel and 20’ cables unless there’s a better bang for the buck panel?

Thanks again everyone
 

SBDuller

Member
As a beginner in this arena, I have used the Renogy MPPT unit with additional BlueTooth dongle, and a 100W Renogy panel. The panel is pretty good. the solar controller was not. It has been removed and the Victron 75/15 replaces it. Victron works. I fully encourage the purchase of the Victron 75/15.
 

FosterWV

Baller On A Budget
Ok we’ll never say never.... bought a fridge

so I’m looking at the Victron 75/15 instead of the Renogy 20 and adding a Renogy 100W panel.

Battery is AGM 210 min @ 25 amps

My math comes to I average 2 amps an hour so 25/2 = 12, so 210 min x 12 = 2520 min or 42 hr before needing a charge?

Thx again for the help and if missed anything let me know
 
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Sneaks

Active member
Victron appeals to my tech side, never thought of that!

“Buy Once Cry Once” is awesome LoL
I don’t mind to it’s just I don’t need a grenade in a water ballon fight. I’ve seen that pros and ordering the 75/15, and Renogy 100W panel and 20’ cables unless there’s a better bang for the buck panel?

Thanks again everyone

At some point, there's value vs need, IMHO. There's brilliant people here with extensive knowledge and experience that you should definitely tap into. Read all you can, ask questions when you need, and decide what is best for you.
Take into account the total cost, for me I considered the hours upon hours that I scoured, fretted, and waffled back and forth on pulling the trigger for low-buck stuff AFTER I spend months reading everything I could. There's a certain level of anxiety and stress involved with any purchase, regardless of the cost. I think sometimes going bargain basement can be as stressful (for me) as ponying up $$$ for top shelf. On the other side of that, if there's not a significant need (or the budget), sometimes crying once might not make sense or even be an option. My muffler is a $14 RockAuto universal can, but my brakes are all genuine ATE from Germany. Spend where you get the value for the important stuff, play instead of pay where you can. For our purposes, solar is more of a "nice to have" instead of a "must have" situation. I put together our system on the cheap because it's spot of importance was pretty far down the list, but the whole idea was something I wanted to do for the learning experience. If it dies in a year, well, then that's a year I got out of it for little $ but lots of education. If it isn't enough, then I'll know what I want and go better quality as the budget allows. Then again, I'm doing all this on a 41 year old VW that might see 2-3 days of use a trip in the New England woods. YMMV

If you will indulge me on a little segue, there's definitely cost vs value. We started keto back before it was "a thing," and had to make a lot of things that now - if you have the money - you can go to a box store and buy. We killed 2 Ninja & one Magic Bullet blender\food processors in less than a year before the better half convinced me to purchase a Blendtec. It was expensive, but when I added up the costs of the lesser appliances, it wasn't really. 6 years later (and one year still left on the warranty), it is still kicking butt. Make almond flour out of whole almonds? Blendtec. Make pudding in 30 seconds? Blendtec. Make butter? Blendtec. Chip trees? Blendtec. Make sand out of rocks? Blendtec. The thing is a BEAST and worth every penny. We go through 12-14 pots of coffee a day (caffeine helps my ADD better than Adderall ever could) so we have a commercial Bunn since Mr Coffee really only works for a pot or two a day. Expensive? Yes. Great value? Most definitely. Spend where you get the value for the important stuff, play instead of pay where you can. I just installed my solar setup, cost me $90.09 plus $76 for 110AH marine battery (at a going out of business sale). The brand names don't matter because they are found under 1,000,000,000 different labels for the same crap, though I did invest in the wire - going fine strand copper with UV tolerant insulation - because not only efficiency, but if I upgrade, it will be reused and worth the investment.

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Tested the panel out of the box, 22v DC. Clipped on a couple of leads to a big resistor I have kicking around and got 8.3a in full sun 90 degrees to the panel. Wired it up with a 20’ run of 10ga fine strand copper wire soldered to the diodes, wrapped in that expandable nylon wire sheathing, terminated with a SAE connector. Tested in the shade about 7:30PM and still got over 18v over the 20’ run of cable.

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Wired up the pass-through connector for the panel, added a master cutoff switch that kills the battery ground on the house system so I can just toss the switch instead of dealing with disconnection it when it is going to be sitting for a while.

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I put DTDP switches inline with both ammeters, that way I can see both pull and push just by reversing polarity of the reference leads, one for house, one for vehicle. Now know my 2 ham radio pulls 8.8a when transmitting, and the starter pulls 104 when cranking
Smile


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Cost:
Cheap ass panel - $35.99 shipped
Cheap ass “50a” PWM controller - $12.29
Cheap ass ammeters - 2 for $19.97
100’ 10ga fine copper strand wire - $17.48 (used half)
SAE connectors - $13.79
50’ nylon 0.5” expandable sheathing (plus 50’ 0.25” roll for other stuff): $10.49
Playing around with something new - $ priceless.
 

FosterWV

Baller On A Budget
Sneaks I got what U were saying. Thanks

Here’s a link to the battery not sure what the ah value is but the RC is 200 min w group 31 battery. That’s 200 min at 25a draw and I’m at 2-3 so I’d be 12 times the 200 min? That’s 2400 min and the fridge fan etc would only run 1/2 the time so 2400 x 2 = 4800min or about 3.3 days camping before it would hit 1/2 charge. Typically we go 4 days 5 max

I could be completely off tho lol


RC = Reserve Capacity at 80°F (27°C)
The reserve capacity is the time in minutes that a new, fully charged battery can be continuously discharged at 25 amperes and maintain at least 1.75 volts per cell (10.5 volts for a 12-volt battery).

 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
You could get a pair of GC2 6V Golf Cart batteries from Sams Club, also made by Deka for $200, presuming you have room for em.. That gives you a whopping ~220AH @ 12V when you wire em in a series.. usually runs a fridge for ~5 days or more, and is a deep cycle bank in all but price.
 
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FosterWV

Baller On A Budget
You could get a pair of GC2 6V Golf Cart batteries from Sams Club, also made by Deka for $200, that gives you a whopping ~220AH.. presuming you have room for em.. usually runs a fridge for ~5 days or more.

Have room/spot for the group 31 size we are already running standard one now it died and have an AGM on the way. Have family that works for Deka so I get really good price on batteries. Have a smaller size AGM n my Jeep the winch hasn’t killed it yet.
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
if thats your size limit and you got a hookup on deka's then yeah go for it.. I pay $260 for an H9 Deka AGM for my vehicle from NAPA w/AAA discount, its 105AH starter battery.. its the biggest and nicest one I can find that fits.
 

FosterWV

Baller On A Budget
if thats your size limit and you got a hookup on deka's then yeah go for it.. I pay $260 for an H9 Deka AGM for my vehicle from NAPA w/AAA discount, its 105AH starter battery.. its the biggest and nicest one I can find that fits.

So budget wise these would cost about the same...

Would you recommend Group 31 AGM at 105ah

Or go w pair GC2 6V 360ah (standard battery) 180ah each

The golf cart batteries seem like a no brainer for ah size but is AGM necessary? They will get charged up at home w a 4 Amp charger
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
I only use AGM for starter/winch batteries, they okay when you want most amps outta less battery.. but they suck ass for house bank use.. GC2 all the way if that's an option.
 

FosterWV

Baller On A Budget
I only use AGM for starter/winch batteries, they okay when you want most amps outta less battery.. but they suck ass for house bank use.. GC2 all the way if that's an option.

I assumed AGM was the only way to go for house batteries? After what u said about the GC2 I did some measuring and moving stuff around I can fit a battery box for them and if I go flooded standard battery I can afford them too. The ah difference is crazy and worth moving stuff around to make them fit.

Appreciate the help and advice for a newb to solar/ batteries. Appreciate it dude!

For what I need and the limited 4-5 days camping going w GC2 batteries is a better choice than solar and a single battery
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
nah for house batteries you want true deep cycle, and that basically means fewer, but bigger cells.. they dont dump a ton of amps on demand for the same weight but they take more "abuse" from discharging slowly and recharging infrequently.. True Deep Cycle AGM's are like insanely expensive, enough to replace a GC2 bank many, many times over.. and there's a ton of fake deep cycles out there that will just die quicker on you for more money.. its a ******** show and none of us really need most of the advantages of AGM in a house battery, so all that extra money for very little, if anything at all in return.

For most expo house banks unless your doing the super space saving scheme and only way to fit a big battery is on its side or something stupid there is little reason to invest heavily in a house bank, buy cheap, abuse the crap out of it, and replace it when it cant keep up anymore.. GC2's cant really be beat unless they are just impossible to fit, like inside vehicles that the OP has to contend with.

ps: you probably wanna get a bigger shore charger for GC2's, I'd say at LEAST 10A, preferably like 20-30A if you wanna get em back full in a hurry.
 
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FosterWV

Baller On A Budget
nah for house batteries you want true deep cycle, and that basically means fewer, but bigger cells.. they dont dump a ton of amps on demand for the same weight but they take more "abuse" from discharging slowly and recharging infrequently.. True Deep Cycle AGM's are like insanely expensive, enough to replace a GC2 bank many, many times over.. and there's a ton of fake deep cycles out there that will just die quicker on you for more money.. its a **** show and none of us really need most of the advantages of AGM in a house battery, so all that extra money for very little, if anything at all in return.

For most expo house banks unless your doing the super space saving scheme and only way to fit a big battery is on its side or something stupid there is little reason to invest heavily in a house bank, buy cheap, abuse the crap out of it, and replace it when it cant keep up anymore.. GC2's cant really be beat unless they are just impossible to fit, like inside vehicles that the OP has to contend with.

ps: you probably wanna get a bigger shore charger for GC2's, I'd say at LEAST 10A, preferably like 20-30A if you wanna get em back full in a hurry.

That makes sense, I have AGM in my Jeep and winch that gets abused. I’ll be going w Deka GC2’s and you are dead on w price the AGM were more than double.

For charging I have a Genius 4A on the trailer I can leave it plugged in at home and our camping trips are 3 weeks apart at least. Or I could use a standard 15 amp charger if I was in a hurry. Also when towing it charges but that’s not enough to rely on from what I’ve read.
 

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