K30 Blazer Arizona Edition

Outback

Explorer
In addition to the radiator Ive ordered a full 4" lift kit from ORD with all the Options checked off. The new custom leaf packs should be done in 1 month. The front shocks are extended length Bilsteins that will be nestled in Ford shock hoops. Front new leafs and extended quick disconnect sway bar links should really help that front end flex. Greasable bushings won't hurt that flex either. The rear also has greasable bushings along with the new custom leaf packs. Bilsteins outback have reinforced shock mounts. This should really smooth out the ride and soften up those boulders off road.
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
That all seems like a tasty bunch of goodies for your rig. i am sure you are looking forward to getting them installed on your fine ride. Cheers, Chilli...:cool:
 

Outback

Explorer
Well my new radiator is installed. $1350 and some change but she does the job. It has massive fans. 5600 CFM. The guys who installed it nick named it "The Shop Vac". They said the fans are loud when they kick on. Thats ok. My A/C IS ice cold. Speaking of the A/C the guy at the A/C shop said it was never hooked up, one wire was waiting to be routed and needed a charge. The wife reports she had to turn it down as it was to cold for her! When I get home I plan on taking her out for some rock crawling. Also my new custom springs and extended front shock mounts steering stabilizer and rear shocks are in. Will install those as well.
 

olly hondro

mad scientist
Lots of parts are shared across chevy/Humvee line e.g. 6.2 diesel, wheel bolt patterns. See my M1009/M1008/Humvee mix 'n match:
more bolts.jpg
 

olly hondro

mad scientist
Do you have a build thread? I like that.
**edit: will start a new thread in the Build forum, so not to hijack the Original Poster's thread, sorry :( **

I could reconstruct one from archives, I suppose. Its not an uncommon build:

  • Start with a basic M1009 military Blazer: It comes with the J-code 6.2 diesel and TH400 auto tranny. Same motor as in the pre-1993 Humvee H1. The differentials are geared at 3.08, gov lock rear, open front. Gotta lose those axles.
  • Snag the axles from the M1008 military 1-1/4 ton pickup truck. Rear is 14 bolt full floater w/detroit locker, front is Dana 60. Both are geared 4.56. This allows you to run big tires easily.
  • Fit the front axle with a detroit locker. Lots of internet haters about locking the front. I love it. Takes some practice blipping the throttle, but the results are extraordinary.
  • Fit the front axle with the dually hubs, the rear with 4 inch thick steel spacers. Now you can run the H1 double beadlocks in stock configuration without cutting & recentering the wheels. These are the only DOT approved double beadlocks that I know of.
  • The squarebody Chevy series had an odd push-pull steering setup. When you get one front wheel drooped and the other stuffed at the same time then it doesn't want to steer. A crossover steering setup cures that.
  • 4 inch lift using suburban springs. They are the same across several years. Same length, don't have to modify anything.
  • Put the truck on a diet. I've removed the top, tailgate, back seat, pintle hitch, added roll cage, rock sliders, and a second spare, switched to tubular doors, and yet it weighs in at 3120 front/ 3000 rear for a pretty porky 6120 pounds, full of diesel, and me, after lunch :0 You see, you cant make these trucks lightweights easily so at least manage how the weight is distributed front to back.
  • So, nothing special really. With careful parts selection and some CG management you can take those fancy Rubicons to school :)
 
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olly hondro

mad scientist
I cut the fenders using a front fender from an M35A2 6x6 as a template. I had visions of 44" tires with the 'A2 fenders welded in for that 'Iceland Truck" look. I never did that. To answer your question: The rears do not need hardly any trimming for 37's. The fronts, with 4" lift, would rub significantly. Rather that cut so much, one can push the front axle forward abit with 52" leafs (same as the rear). There are commercially available kits to do that. Other guys go with more lift, but as an Engineer, I take COG management seriously so prefer to cut sheetmetal.
 

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