"K2" Expedition Overland Build

1HaytchZed

Member
'93 HDJ81
Beginning to baseline. Will update with pics when the weather gets better.
  • New 315/75/16 BFG KO2s
  • ProComp 16" Matte Black Alloy wheels 7069
  • ProComp ES9000 shocks
  • 4" lift springs
  • LCP Gullwing windows
Baselining completed thus far:
  • 23303-64010 OEM Fuel Filter
  • Ran 2 cans of the LiquiMoly Diesel Purge through the fuel filter, plan is to run another 3-4 more.


  • 90915-30002 New OEM Oil Filter, still available (3/16/19)
  • Liqui Moly DIesel 15W-40 (10L) (3/16/19)
  • Liqui Moly Engine Flush (3/16/19)
    • 1 can / 5 liters of oil, so you need 2 cans for a proper engine flush

Oil Separator / Oil catch can (4/20/19)
  • Mann Provent 200 install to eliminate oil migration rom crankcase to turbo and eventually to the intake
Near Future:
 
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1HaytchZed

Member
3/16/19, 166k kms.

Completed replacing the BEBs (Big-End Bearings, aka Connecting Rod bearings) along with the connecting rod cap bolts, since the old ones do stretch a little. It took me 5 hours to complete it. I also let the oil pan settle and FIPG to form over night before I filled it with oil.
Also, plastigaged and numbers were within range, crank looked real good. I also had retired Toyota mechanic swing by and take a look at the internal, journals, crank and the bearings, and he thought the engine had 10-15k miles, he was quite amazed at its condition.

The oil pan had never been removed as far as i could tell, the FIPG was whitish/beige color and it looked like it wasn't applied manually. I also took a blow torch to the pan after I cut the FIPG with my awsome tool pictured below. Its a 20ga AL Simpson timber tie, angled at 90 deg. Another mud member had used it and it worked beautifully. I also removed the two transmission brackets on either side of the oil pan, made life much easier.

32mm socket to be used on the front of the crank to turn to get to the other bearings, have to remove the small inspection/bash plate.

Also, when installing new cap bolts, its a good idea to mark the bolt with a dot with a paint marker so that the 90 deg (27 ft. lb. + 90 deg) turn part is easy to gauge.

Here are pics of the pan before and after removal.
 

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Recommended books for Overlanding

Overlanding the Americas: La Lucha
by Mr Graeme Robert Bell
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Long Way Round: Chasing Shadows Across the World
by Ewan McGregor, Charley Boorman
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999 Days Around Africa: The Road Chose Me
by Dan Grec, Dan Grec
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Overland: A Mercedes-Benz Journey Through the Americas
by ri M. Stroh
From $19.36
Overlanders' Handbook: Worldwide Route & Planning Guide: ...
by Chris Scott
From $29.95

1HaytchZed

Member
Wire wheel on the oil pan removed all of the old FIPG. If you use the OEM FIPG, make sure it comes with the extracting tool, its a small tool you place on the end of the tube and rotate which forces ~100% of the material out of the toothpaste type tube, I shall use it on my actual toothpaste tube.

Also, I cleaned out the oil pan with some gasoline and blew it dry with compressed air.
There are 24 bolts and 3 nuts with studs. I tried practicing a dry fit of the pan before I FIPG'd and it was quite difficult to get the pan to line up on the studs. Others indicated enlargening the holes for the 3 studs and so I used a step up drill bit and increased the diameter by a single step, this was adequate to get the studs to line up rather easily.


This is the tool I made out of a flat Simpson timber tie to cut the old FIPG in place. once inserted, it can be easily hammered down the length of the oil pan.
 

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1HaytchZed

Member
Only the best for my baby.
90915-30002 is NOT the same as the 90915-30002-8T (made in Thailand), search and you will find the details. Also, this is the oil filter what came off of it, maybe it was the one used in Japan. I can't find it online anywhere but its build quality was quite nice, I should have cut it in half.
AMC brand, AO-228, made in Malaysia.
 

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1HaytchZed

Member
I had all sorts of water issues, beginning with the sunroof drips and not draining. Cleared the 4 lines from the sunroof down to the rocker panels. After a few rain storms noticed a whole bunch of swooshing sounds, as if a tidal wave is about to hit me...
Pulled the rocker panel plus and cleared the slits (Toyota's poorly designed drains for an offroad / expeditionary travel vehicle) with a ziptie and about 2 gallons of water came pouring out of the rocker panels.

The slits are right above the bottom most body seam behind the steps, and can be felt with the fingers if you follow the body seam back, roughly 8" from the front of that seam.

The 2nd pic is of the inside of the rocker panel, you can see one of the plugs there.
 

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1HaytchZed

Member
Installed a Provent 200 this morning.
I thought this would be a nice spot for install, right where the brake master cylinder mates with the brake booster.

1/8" AL flat plate with some holes, cuts and a bend. It's a little tricky to squeeze the bent piece behind the reservoir and to get the studs through the holes, but with enough patience and iterations, it is do-able. I had to re-bend the AL 4-5 times to get it right. It's awfully close to the brake lines, but its quite stable.
 

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