JK130 | Custom TDI Diesel Parallel Hybrid Jeep Wrangler with composite camper build.

[straypoet]

I think the decision between carbon and FG for walls depends on things like how large the panels are, how insulated you want them to be, how stiff (or flexible!) they need to be, and how much you care about impact protection. Since carbon is much stiffer, it makes more sense on thin panels. On thicker panels the FG is stiff enough, and is better for impact. You could add kevlar to the carbon for better impact, but $$$ and it's a bear to work with. I don't know if you have a specific need for high insulation, but when you get a pretty modest amount of insulation the need for ventilation tends be the biggest heat loss. Plus we are in little boxes, and thick insulation takes away from interior space. Tradeoffs...

I've attached a spreadsheet with some cost and weight numbers for different panel options. In the first two examples with PVC foam, the one with FG skins would be quite a bit more robust in my "wack it with a hammer" testing, and yet it's only .12 lb/ft^2 heavier. Stiffness is carbon's forte...

Thank you for the informational post, and the screenshot of your decision making spreadsheet. This will definitely play a part in my decision making process.
The dash is going to be carbon for looks and 'coolness factor', but the actual camper has two goals: strong, and light weight. I don't care if it is carbon or FG, and I don't care so much about which is cheaper, I just want the most strength for the least weight. So I will be taking your suggestions into account, and I do appreciate the voice of experience.

As I build the dash and the rest of the interior, I think I will also gain some experience that will help in the decision.

 

[straypoet]

Posted another short update video to YouTube.

JK130 Project Update #2, December 24th 2021

 

[straypoet]

Spent the weekend at the garage.

I was able to finish my transmission work.
Full dissassembly, and new bearings. Installed the bronze shift plate, and new input shaft.


I clearanced the starter (which goes on the opposite side as the original starter. and welded on the new cover plate which keeps dust and dirt out. The plate was designed to be screwed to the housing, but I used my spoolgun on the Hobart Mig for the first time and welded it on. Never used a spoolgun before. Works well, but the welds are much uglier than a TIG.


Put the throwout bearing in, and got the transmission all ready to be connected to the engine.

Ordered a few parts:
12" Swivels which I will use for the seats: $40

Universal Engine mounts $50

3" Same side intercooler $160

Also ordered new locating dowels for the transmission side, as I didn't think to remove them from the 3.8 when I pulled it. $10

Ordered a gauge cluster out of a Hyundai Veloster which I plan to adapt for the tach and speedometer. $40 (as they are large 7" guages and I think they would work well.) Slight problem is that I may end up having to switch the steering wheel to one which gives me more opening at the top part of the wheel, like a T shape. I like the wheel I bought, hopefully I wont have to change it out. We will see...

$300 total

I removed the old engine mounts (mostly) and worked on a few other smaller things, but mostly the weekend was full with finishing the rebuild of the transmission, and adapting the belhousing to work with the adaptor plate.
Progress.....

 

[straypoet]

Minor update,
I liked the wheel I bought.... but I can't see the gauge cluster through the wheel, so I returned the old one, and just ordered a slightly different style.
This one has more room at the top, I think I will be able to use it.
Kinda annoying, but oh well.

Cost an extra $40 also. ?

 

[straypoet]

Spent the evening working on my intake manifold.

As you can see below, I am removing unnecessary things, and will use some sheet aluminum to re-form the curve at the top of the intake.

The problem with the BHW intake is that it faces the wrong direction, and so I am going to cut this manifold in half, and flip the top potion and re-weld.
I took several measurements, and it is symmetrical near the bottom (right at the top of those ribs on the outside) so I should be able to make this look good when done.
Spent several hours slowly cutting and grinding away. Should be done in another day or maybe 2.

 

[b dkw1]

I went gull log manifold, it needed to be way shorter to clear the hood.

 

[straypoet]

I went gull log manifold, it needed to be way shorter to clear the hood.

Looks like that did the trick! Any issues welding the cast?
Hope I don’t have clearance issues. I think I am ok on height.

I am working on patching it up now:

 

[straypoet]

JK130 Part 3 Transmission, Engine Mounts. Jan 05, 22

new YouTube video up.

 

[straypoet]

well....... the steering wheel saga continues. I got the other grant wheel, and really hated the plastic horn button that felt like it was going to come off at any time. So I am also returning that one.
and ordered this one. No cost difference.

hopefully the third time will be the charm.

 

[b dkw1]

Looks like that did the trick! Any issues welding the cast?
Hope I don’t have clearance issues. I think I am ok on height.

I am working on patching it up now:
View attachment 700360

It was dirty but welded ok. I soaked it in the purple degreaser stuff for a few hours. Let it dry for a couple days then hit it with a torch to sweat it before welding it up. Still bubbled a little but not bad. I don't think you can ever get all the oil out of cast.

 

[straypoet]

Good morning everyone. Spent the weekend working on a few projects.
My BHW intake is done. I will be uploading a video on how I made it, but here is the finished result.
This now faces the front of the engine as it should. I cut it in half and put it back together.



I also pulled the second BHW from the Passat that has been sitting in front of the shop for the last year and a half.
It has a new cam, and new timing belt, but as you can see from this photo, it still has the balance shaft module, so that needs to go.
Take a look at the photo closely. There is a piece of the chain tensioner that was in the bottom of the pan sitting on top of the oil pump. Also there is a little piece stuck in the oil pickup. This would not have lasted much longer at all. I will be ordering a BSM delete kit shortly.

I was going to put the other engine in the Jeep, but I think I will go with this one after all. I will then fully rebuild the other, and then swap them when this engine is ready for a new timing belt.




I also bought a new toy over the weekend..... But that is another story.

 

[straypoet]

Ordered a balance shaft delete kit for the other BHW engine, and an oil pan, and an ALH pickup.
$400


I picked up a ESPAR Diesel Hydronic heater from a friend (free! ) which will be used to heat the cabin, hot water, and engine block, as well as routed through the fuel tanks to keep the fuel from gelling in extreme cold.
The gift saved a bunch of money, as these units aren't cheap at all.

 

[straypoet]

New Youtube video uploaded.
Turning my BHW intake into a BRM intake.


JK130 Intake Modification. TDI BHW to BRM modification

 

[CraftsmanCollaborative]

Just read through - tons of great details! Keep on keeping on! ?
(Liked the original fold-flat seat concept too, had to go that direction w/ the xj)

 

[straypoet]

minor recordkeeping entry.
Spent $150 on 3 kits of EUCOS connectors, wire anchors, stainless zip ties, all new bushings for the transfer case cable, and the attachment clip as well. Bunch of small things needed as I begin to actually get the engine in place and wired up. Still need to buy a waterproof housing for the ECM and base for the fuse box.


Also ordered an -10 AN oil filter remote housing and integrated cooler thermostat. Still need to get the actual oil cooler, and the hose kit. $150


$300 Total

I worked at the garage over the weekend, got the transfer case back on the trans, did some mock ups and am working on the mounting plates for the engine mounts.
Slow progress,,,, But Progress.....