JK Battery?

HAFICON

Adventurer
So right as I got enough cash together to buy an ARB 50qt on of the batteries in my dual set up went bad with the other problem close behind. This explains some of the electrical issues I been having.

So I did some searching and looks like the best option is Odyssey 34R-PC1500. But I know the battery market changes over time. I currently have dual Die-Hard batteries from Sears auto center, these were supposedly re-branded Odyssey. The model I have which was bought in 2014 has been discontinued and Sears will not honor any pro-rated warranty. Whatever I’m done with it just need recommendations on a quality deep cell battery.

I do a lot of winching mostly clearing property pulling stumps, Viair 450 compressor, lights and maybe soon to be an ARB fridge.

Thank you,
James Blue
 

ratled

Adventurer
I have had the Odyssey 1500 for almost 2 years with no issues. I run them primarily for the fridge and winching. I would buy them again. I bought mine mail order from 4 Wheel Parts as they were the cheapest source at the time. Mail order was cheaper than the in store price,

ratled
 
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HAFICON

Adventurer
OK thank you, I am thinking these are the best bet, just checking before I fire. Only one of my current batteries are bad but with camping season fast approaching I am going to just do both new and start saving back up for the fridge. The batteries I have has never let me down and the starting battery has been drained a time or two. But the Aux. battery is the one that is weak sucks but is what it is.
 

jadmt

ignore button user
what kind of dual battery system do you guys run? I have an ARB 50 and just have been running it off the starter battery and usually don't sit for longer than 20 hours when out camping. It makes me nervous tho.
 

HAFICON

Adventurer
I built my own, thanks to photo bucket the thread is now useless. But is did a M.O.R.E. Tray, built a metal bracket for hold down, all my own wiring I used PAC 500-750amp solinods.
 

BenHedrick

Adventurer
I run the Genesis Offroad Dual-Battery kit in many of our JK's. We've been very happy with the Genesis Offroad setup always.

Ben

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jacobconroy

Hillbilly of Leisure
My experience leads me to suggest that you should do all your homework about battery requirements, pick the size and configuration that you think you need....then DOUBLE it.

Not kidding sir. Everyone that sells kit will tell you that their product is exactly what you need. It all comes down to amp hours. In my JK, I had a 120 amp hour battery in the rear of the vehicle. I could run a National Luna fridge (for 24 hours @ 1.6 amp hours) and a fan when sleeping (for 9 hours @ 1.6 amp hours) and a Propex heater (for 8 hours @ 1.6 amp hours) for one night.

On day two, you will need to run your engine for two hours or invest in solar panels (which are their own particular flavor of expense and screwing around). The "running the engine" option will only partially charge the rear battery. The batteries need to be maintained with something such as a NOCO charger (or equivalent) while on shore power, or an aggressive solar array and the requisite gadgets (MMPT controllers, etc.) to spring back to their original potential.

Now that I've moved from a JK to a van, I'm saving my pennies to add a second 120 amp hour battery to accommodate the setup, as well as a second battery in the engine compartment. This will be a total or four batteries (two standard lead-acid car batteries under the hood, and two $300.00 deep cycle coach batteries in the rear for the gear).

Big money (for me). In short, I wouldn't stress about it too much. Either you are going to spend thousands to do it right..or you are willing to pack a portable battery charger (for when you guess wrong). :)

For reference, any two batteries that you can fit under the hood of a JK will be approximately 55 amp hours each. One will be cut off when your voltage drops (or should be), and you shouldn't deplete any deep cycle battery more than 50% (assuming that you have deep-cycle batteries). So, in effect, any JK under-the-hood setup will afford you about 25 amp hours of power in optimal condition and at rest. This will run a ARB fridge for about 15 hours (with nothing else running).

Depressing. Right? Don't you wish they explained all this crap in the infomercial?

Oh...and any winching is going to totally "F-up" anything I said above. Cut everything in half.
 
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vtsoundman

OverAnalyzer
The following is not a new proposal around here...intall a single Group 31 100Ah under the hood...use a JSS tray for 3.8s or modify the factory box to accept a single battery (3.6L motors) Then if you really need it, drop a 2nd battery in the rear for when you need the add'l juice.

A dual battery sounds cool...but is it really? I'm not sure most people realize that a dual battery setup results in a ~20% of the usable Ah...and no more than the stock Jeep JK setup.

Math:
Jeep dual setups : Two Group 34 PC1500 Odessy Batts @ 68Ah. = 2 * 68Ah = 136Ah under the hood.

One reserved for starting, one for Aux - sounds great.

Apply 50% guidance to maximize battery life vs cycle : Result 68Ah x 50% = 34Ah usable for the Aux Battery.
34Ah /168Ah = ~20 % useable capacity....doesn't sound great anymore - especially at cost/complexity these dual batt kit guys are charging.

IF the batteries are indeed 50-55Ah, it makes it all the more reason to rethink a dual battery setup.

Rethink:
Install single Group 31 100-110Ah Battery
Apply 50% guidance to maximize battery life vs cycle : Result 100 or 110 Ah x 50% = 50-55Ah Usable.
34/55 = ~40% more usable capacity with a single Group 31.

If you do long, excessive pulls in a work application, then run a second group 31 battery in a battery box in the rear of your jeep. Run 1/0 or #1 cables + Andersons from the underhood battery to the rear battery when working. After a hards days work, connect BOTH to a decent shore charger - unless you're driving >4-6hrs each night, your jeep will not properly charge those batteries for another day's work and you'll be well into defecit cyclng territory.

I ran the Sears Platinum batteries for several years until they were offered no more. After 4 years, there as a decent loss of capacity. At 6yrs, I was well past 50% lost and it was very noticeable running the various loads.

Now I use Sam's Club Duracell Group 31 100Ah Deep Cycle batteries for my main battery. I'm really liking these batteries for the money....I can buy 2 of these batteries for a single Northstar....no way will I run a battery long enough to justify the 2x multiplier - I'd rather replace my Group 31 Sam Duracell Deep Cycle every 3 years and still be ahead of the Northtar costs at a 6yr replacement interval.

I have NEVER killed my single Group 31 battery enough need my Aux jumper to start my Jeep - winching or otherwise.

I've run a Dometic CFX63DZ fridge, communications (ham and other) gear, and other electrical equipment for 2-3 days without worrying about the starting battery in relatively hot temps. I typically will run 1-2 200mm fans mounted on custom window vents to keep the jeep ventilated at night or while napping. My dog really kicks out some heat.

Side note: @jacobconroy - doing some math on your numbers suggest you've pulled ~66Ah in a single night. That is a ton of juice....you may want to rethink your loads. That fan for example: invest in some computer fans of the appropraite size & location - quieter, will move the same amount of air and much more efficient. A National Luna fridge pulls 38.4Ah in a 24Hr period? Wow...that is A LOT. Get a cover and install some fans to let that thing breathe. The JK charging system will produce 14.5V on a regular basis...this is more than sufficient to charge most AGM batteries. Some batteries mfrs, like Full River need more voltage - and would require an additional charger. (I still like a TUNEABLE B2DC however, as it allows two things: (1) create a regulated DC bus for senstive electical gear (2) use whatever battery I want. Anything that cannot be adjusted should be skipped...this includes NOCO, CTEK, etc).

Our Jeeps are easy to kick over...so a decent Group 31 depleted to 30-50% has NO problem starting a Jeep even in the cold. (Ask me how I now).

The Jeep Alternator will produce ~160A at ~2500-3k Engine RPM. The Jeep will consume ~25A wiithout the electric fan running and all other accessories off. Add the fan and that load will increase 40A or so depending on speeds. That leaves about 100A - that is enough to run most winches (except at initial stuck).

Side Note: I have since added a 2nd 100aH battery in the rear of the jeep as my electrical loads have increased (I have a work / play jeep). I run a B2DC + MPPT charger to control the charge. Jeep All of my comms gear is connected to the starting battery, incl GPS and phone charger. Fridges, equipment chargers, lights, fan, computers, are connected to the Aux Battery....I'm contemplating leaving all my solar gear at home unless I basecamp for more than 3-4 days without starting the Jeep.

Like one of the posters above, I know also have a van...I will be using a very large lithium setup and 2nd alternator....but I have never felt the need to double the planned battery energy capacity.

Pick your fridge carefully and install add'l cooling fans to prevent the compressor from being smothered. Get some inexpensive reflectix window shields for the rear of the jeep from Amazon or ebay for cheap. Cover your cooler with a WHITE towel or cover.

edited...didnt realize I called his fridge a POS until I poted it.
 
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jacobconroy

Hillbilly of Leisure
Side note: @jacobconroy - doing some math on your numbers suggest you've pulled ~66Ah in a single night. That is a ton of juice....you may want to rethink your loads. That fan for example: invest in some computer fans of the appropraite size & location - quieter, will move the same amount of air and much more efficient. A National Luna fridge pulls 38.4Ah in a 24Hr period? Wow...that is A LOT. Get a cover and install some fans to let that thing breathe. The JK charging system will produce 14.5V on a regular basis...this is more than sufficient to charge most AGM batteries. Some batteries mfrs, like Full River need more voltage - and would require an additional charger. (I still like a TUNEABLE B2DC however, as it allows two things: (1) create a regulated DC bus for senstive electical gear (2) use whatever battery I want. Anything that cannot be adjusted should be skipped...this includes NOCO, CTEK, etc).

Oh yeah..I skipped an important point. I don't have dual batteries under the hood because of the reasons that both you and I mentioned above. I have a standard lead-acid battery up front and a 120 amp hour group 31 in the rear (much like you mentioned). The use I described was for one night of average, actual camping with no winching. The group 31 is housed in a National Luna Power Pack, so it disconnects the starter battery almost immediately after you begin to use power (I think at 12.5 volts...don't quote me on that though).

In the morning I would find that the group 31 had dropped to 12.1 or 12.2 volts, which is just about as low as I want to go for lifecycle reasons. To be fair, I could discharge it quite a bit more for another night (most likely). I have made it through two or three nights by running the engine for 120 minutes each afternoon, but it is kinda of a pain to be worrying voltage about it all the time.

I use a "Fanstastic Fan" meant for RV use. On low it supposed to pull about 1.5 amps per hour. As for the National Luna fridge I've read that it averages 1.6 per hour, but have never verified that. Could be a bit more or less. The fridge is housed in a "Jeep Kitchen" and has appr. 1.5 inches of clearance all around it with vents in the cabinet.

Please take my post with a grain of salt. I am no expert. I do however pay attention to the voltages when around the camp fire, and honestly, if I had known just how much money, attention, and inefficiency is involved with 12 volt power going in, I would have continued to buy ice for the cooler and D batteries for a fan. :p
 

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