Jeep JKU 2013 Hard Top: how hollow is it? Pictures anyone

[Flyfishjeep]

I saw a really cool setup here a few years ago where someone had mounted these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JH26XEE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00) on above the rear windows on each side of his hard top. Looking at the top, it definitely is hollow along the rear door for factory wires and window hinges. I was wondering if anyone else has drilled into the area above a rear window on these hard tops to run wires back to the rear side of the hardtop? It would be nice to keep the wires and attachments (hopefully I can use riv nuts to attach them so I don't have to drill all the way through the top.) inside the top for a clean look, but ultimately I may have to just run the wire all the way through the top and down the back side where I will add a plug for each one for top removal. Any pictures, ideas or experiences you all have to share would be great. I will post pictures as I start this project.

 

[Comanche Scott]

I don't have a hole in the support at the edge, but did drill holes in the cross support.
After reading your post, I went out to look, and stuck my finger inside the hole over to the side. It "feels" like it is open into the longitudinal channel support.

On my top this is a bit over 1" opening depth.
You could check with a small 1/8" pilot hole, and a piece of wire.

Instead of threaded inserts, a better choice may be to use well nuts. They do a better job in FRP.
here is an example:
http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-10-32-Length-Clipsandfasteners-Inc/dp/B0149IJQMQ

And a couple of pictures that hopefully help explain where I checked.
Hth,

 

[Flyfishjeep]

I like that...basically a waterproof riv nut! Thanks for the photos, I am hoping that there are no cross supports inside the top that would interfere with the running of wire. I will try and drill a small hole on the inside first to run a test wire through...that way a simple bit of caulk will fill it on the inside and not be visible

 

[unkamonkey]

Well nuts. On my Volvo and on my fathers Suburban they are used to hold the roof racks on. They don't leak.

 

[Flyfishjeep]

I finished the external installation of the lights today and am still waiting on some switches to arrive as well as some other small items I need to complete the project. The lights look great and I cheated and hooked up a battery last night to see how much light they throw out. LOVE it! I also found a small camp light I had purchased a few years ago. With the shelf and tray in the back now, the factory lights do not illuminate anything in the back area now. Well adding this light to the wiper motor plastic cover was the ticket. Just not sure yet where I am going to put the switch for this light. My guess is somewhere on the left side, maybe the hardtop itself but most likely the [plastic around the rear seatbelt attachment (easy to find in the dark if I just have to reach for the roll bar post). I will try and take some additional pictures that show everything soon. Almost forgot to add a little sealant for the wire hole, but a good washing and I realized I forgot. A little silicone in that should be the ticket. Having trouble downloading pics tonight so I will try and update tomorrow

 

[Flyfishjeep]

I forgot to answer the question I originally asked. The sides of the top are not hollow.....Drilled a small pilot hole under where the light would sit (wire feed hole) and found that although it looks like it should be, its not. So that brought out the question of how to run the wire. Well last year I bought an insulation kit for the top and sides of the top so I just ran the wire under that. Now the backside of the hardtop is hollow so one more small hole along the back corner into the hollow back and I had plenty of room to fish the wire through there and run it out the same slot as the factory wire. There were no supports that prevented this from happening. Once I had the wire fished through and put the sound insulation back up...almost cannot even see the wire at all. Again, I will post some pictures. And thanks Comanche Scott...the well nuts worked great!

 

[JCDriller]

I don't have a hole in the support at the edge, but did drill holes in the cross support.
After reading your post, I went out to look, and stuck my finger inside the hole over to the side. It "feels" like it is open into the longitudinal channel support.

On my top this is a bit over 1" opening depth.
You could check with a small 1/8" pilot hole, and a piece of wire.

Instead of threaded inserts, a better choice may be to use well nuts. They do a better job in FRP.
here is an example:
http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-10-32-Length-Clipsandfasteners-Inc/dp/B0149IJQMQ

And a couple of pictures that hopefully help explain where I checked.
Hth,

Scott, why did you make these cuts to your hard top in the first place?

 

[Comanche Scott]

Scott, why did you make these cuts to your hard top in the first place?

Needed access for one of the holes on the 42" Yakima rail kit for each side.

 

[Comanche Scott]

I forgot to answer the question I originally asked. The sides of the top are not hollow.....Drilled a small pilot hole under where the light would sit (wire feed hole) and found that although it looks like it should be, its not. So that brought out the question of how to run the wire. Well last year I bought an insulation kit for the top and sides of the top so I just ran the wire under that. Now the backside of the hardtop is hollow so one more small hole along the back corner into the hollow back and I had plenty of room to fish the wire through there and run it out the same slot as the factory wire. There were no supports that prevented this from happening. Once I had the wire fished through and put the sound insulation back up...almost cannot even see the wire at all. Again, I will post some pictures. And thanks Comanche Scott...the well nuts worked great!

Sounds like it came out really nice.
Looking forward to seeing the pictures! :beer: