James bay trip ... with a little delay!

David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Hi group! I am a francophone from Montreal who already has several thousand kilometers of overland to my credit! I have been a member of the forum for several years too (since 2013 !). I speak English very well, but I rarely write long text, especially at a technical level where I let people write in a more comfortable way.

Last year, I wrote a text in the Toyota Trail Magazine (Toyota Landcruiser Association) about my trip to James Bay which took place in August 2017 - https://tlca.org/toyotatrails/2018/...QCfC-tF4_Ijh-0brw1fJKwoTyw7S5Takt8fFU#page/20.

I decided to share it here with you to contribute to this forum.

It's more of a story than a technical travel report. I know that trip has already been shared by many members ... but, still here's mine ! I hope you enjoy :

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There are few places so remote that strike the imagination when you try to figure yourself over there. Such remote places exist in the province of Québec, Canada. A place, a road where, at its end, there is nothing except the infinity of the taiga. This is where our family achieved when we hit the road for an overland trip in August 2017. The James Bay Road up to Radisson, then Longue-Pointe, on the shore of the James Bay.

Radisson is located, geographically, halfway between the southern and northern most points in the province of Québec and is the only non-native towns north of the 53rd parallel in this province that can be reached by road.

This is where me and my family decided to go, on board of our dashing 60 serie Landcruiser named Amiral (meaning Admiral in English). Very well equipped and powered by a powerful 12HT engine, the Amiral has all the ability to tow our M101 CDN trailer with its very cozy Eezi Awn RTT surmount on it.



As surprising as it may seem, it took a full day to reach our «kind-of» departure point. «Kilometer 0» of the James Bay Road, at Matagami. From there, the James Bay Road runs north to Radisson, 620 km (388 miles) away. It is a very remote wilderness flat paved route winding its way through the Canadian Shield. There are no towns along this road, and only one place to fuel-up in between at kilometer 381. This 381 km (236 mile) stretch without services is the 2nd longest service-free stretch of road in Canada and it is the 3rd longest service-free stretch in North America. The longest is the road 510 between and Port Hope Simpson (410km (254 miles) and the second is the Dalton Hwy in Alaska, with is a 394 km (244 miles) stretch without services. It is useless to point out that everyone who hit this road needs to ride a vehicle in sound condition and be well aware of their mechanical skills to support any unexpected problem. Let me specify despite all the travel distance in all our northern part of our trip, the number of vehicles encountered was amazingly low.







This road was built in the 1970s for a massive hydro-electric project for Hydro-Québec James Bay Project. It was built to accommodate vehicles with up to 500 tons of equipment which makes this road the toughest in the province of Québec! Despite its toughness, the age and the extreme climate of the location, it has started to show its age and several cracks and bumps have appeared along the road. The speed limit is 100km/h (60m/h) and we rapidly realized that our vehicle could not handle this speed among the bumps. I swear, once, I felt as if all my tires almost left the ground! So we slowed down, besides, we had all these stunning landscapes to enjoy.

The sunlight showed us all the richness of this country. In 2013 the biggest forest fire in the history of the province of Québec consumed an immeasurable part of this fragile flora. From kilometer to kilometer, we were able to see the nature grow back between the burned trees. Out of sight, purple fireweed and burnt tree trunks surround the road.

Driving up north, the James Bay Road runs through taiga, bogs, exposed rocks and where the fire did not ruin it all, spruces and jack pines. For most of the non initiated people, this place can be monotone, but for us, this place showed us the immensity of our country and gave us all the time to appreciate this unique landscape where it is impossible to conceive had we not been there. Books, pictures, videos and even my yarns cannot reveal the size and beauty of the territory we were traveling.







Numerous rivers were crossed but not all of them deserved to be appreciated as the impressive Rupert River. The Rupert River, which we crossed a second time later in our trip several hundred kilometers east, upstream, is one of the largest rivers in the province of Québec. Despite the fact it was diverted in 2009 to feed a hydroelectric power plant, the 50% remaining water flow was so impressive that it’s almost impossible to imagine how mighty this river could have been in the past. The Rupert is not the only great northern river that has been diverted. The Eastman river, which we also crossed which received the flow of the Rupert downstream was also diverted to feed the La Grande Rivière, where the sixth biggest hydroelectric plants of the world were built, 270km (168mi) straight north of the Rupert. The Robert-Bourassa generating station, one of our destinations.





As it has been said, expect the fifteen touristic interpretation boards, boat launching ramp and other very few native people shacks along the road, there is nothing to accommodate the tourists or visitors. And this is exactly what we, overlanders, are looking for!



This led us to seek a camping spot by leaving the road and drive a short distance on a very rustic trail where trees were growing along it to a very pleasant lake where no wind came to bother its surface which made it like a vast mirror.

We set our camp on its narrow beach beside a Grey Jay nest which showed to be very interested in us since they perched themselves on our open doors when we were preparing dinner. One also rested on my finger that I presented as a roost! This lake was shallow and, for this reason, offered a relatively comfortable water temperature and we enjoyed swimming in it. This is something that we never really expected enjoying at this latitude.





 
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David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
The day after, we reached Radisson and visited the largest underground hydroelectric power plant in the world, Robert-Bourassa generating station. At 140 meters (460ft) underground, it is the most important power generator site in North America. We accessed the underground site in a coach bus! A real cathedral carved in the rock! The exterior facilities are constituted by a dam as high as a 53-storey building and it is 2.7km (1.7 mi) long. The water evacuator named the «giant staircase» has ten steps equivalent to two football fields each. This engineering masterpiece is breathtaking! It's worth all the traveled mileage and I encourage you to Google it!






We’ve now yet to meet the hugeness of the James Bay and drive 130km (80mi) west to face it, at Longue Pointe. At the end of this last section, finally, James Bay, which is also a part of the Arctic ocean, deployed its immensity in front of us. Despite it being only one of our planed destinations, a huge felling of achievement came over us. We were there; we were at this mythical place that every overlander should experience.

As soon as we exited the Landcruiser we were hit, literally, by the aggressive ceaseless frigorific northern wind. We were in August, but our windbreakers, hoodies, scarves and toques that we brought with us were much appreciated. The wind whistled as strong as it was blowing in our RTT which it was very challenging to deploy. My wife rapidly made a hearty soup for diner just before she nearly got upset of the arctic wind. While she and my son were enjoying their meal comfortably seated sheltered from the wind in the vehicle, I finished the last preparations for the night and finally enjoyed my soup which quickly cooled in few minutes and trying to convince myself, nevertheless, a glass of red wine in hand, that I was in the most beautiful place of the world.






At this time of the year and more precisely at this latitude, the sun sets very late and we were able to enjoy daylight up to, easily, 10h PM. The sun set on the horizon of the James Bay and it offered us a spectacular variety of warm colors from bright yellow to dark red. By chance this heated up our soul and gave us the opportunity to rest on the shore and finally appreciated the climate of this rough part of our country and been struck by the most stunning thing I’ve seen in my life: Aurora borealis. Among the billons of stars and the Milky Way, these bright green shadows were dancing all over the sky. I was blessed to be there with my beloved family.




The next day, we took pleasure in walking the costal rocks worn by the passage of glaciers. The bare rocks are colorful and magnificent. Despite the arduous climate, the temperature, the wind and the vagaries of the sun’s luminosity through the season, the flora is spectacular. Most of the flowers are stiff and minuscule. The average trees are stunted and twisted. And one of the coolest things is the light. I don’t know why but all the colors seem brighter, sharper. Even the grays, usually drab, showed all its power to excite your sight.








 

David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
We took the road again and headed south back onto James Bay road and then headed east on another gravel track to the Eastman Camp. This gravel road was the smoothest one that I drove on this entire trip, in fact, in my whole life... almost! It was large, level and very smooth, totally the opposite from the common wash boards we usually know with this type of pavement. We soon realized that this road was... well, maybe, from what we understand, a non public route owned, and exceptionally well cared for, by the provinces’ hydro electrical company, Hydro-Québec. Nearly 2 hours of real charm, like driving a boat on a calm lake without a wave. The Landcruiser was driving through the taiga at highway speed, easily, following the electric power line with all his passengers, speechless in front of this astounding landscape.







The next days brought us out of the taiga by entering the boreal forest. This transition was made along the «Route du Nord» from Nemiscau to Chibougamau where we finally fueled up the Amiral. The only gas station between Radisson and Chibougamau was Nemiscau, a native community, which was closed when we passed through, leaving us with the Landcruiser tank and only our 5-gallon jerry cans for a 660km (410mi) stretch. The Landcruiser with the trailer and gear averaged a very good 18.1mpg but needless to say that I was in a hurry to find civilisation.






Continuing on our trip from Chibougamau, it wasn’t as remote and seeing civilization again created a mitigated feeling in us. We were so well alone but the last steps of our journey could not happen without rubbing ourselves on human beings! This is where we slept in the first and only real campground (with hot shower!) at Saint-Félicien and visited one of the most diversified zoo in North America, the “Zoo sauvage of St-Félicien”. It is dedicated to wildlife conservation of the boreal climate where we are able to see species like polar bears, Amur tigers and grizzlies.





 

David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
We skirted the wide Lac Saint-Jean, the third largest lake in the province of Québec. It discharges into the Saguenay River which was our destination down to Tadoussac. The Saguenay River is famous for its steep cliff borders usually associated with the spectacular fjords sceneries. Indeed, colossal glaciers used this route back in the glaciation period thousands of years ago. In north America, fjords are not very common and this one is unique because it is inside the continent.





The route along the fjord was very impressive. Thinking about this spectacular landscape and the bottomless Saguenay River wrought by the glaciers made us feel infinitely small through this gigantic place. All these endless escarpments topped by abundant vegetation let us appreciate the richness and great diversity of the flora that we encountered since the beginning of our expedition.

The last hours of this day were dedicated to find a place to rest for the night. In contrast to the unoccupied land that we were used to previously, a remote place was not in our reach. In fact, remote places surrounded us but all this local land was private property. So we stopped in a bucolic village named Ste-Rose-du-Nord to measure our possibilities. This little town hides timidly at the edge of the Saguenay Fjord in the hollow of a small meadow valley away from the main road. We saw a nice little campground but we decided to pass and try to find something better if such place existed nearby.

A local guy let us know of the existence of a road few miles south of Ste-Rose-du-Nord. This road reaches a hamlet where few people live. Name St-Basile-de-Tableau, this stunning place was, obviously, not a place to host any kind of impromptu traveler for the night. Aside of a historical minuscule Chapel, four or five houses face the fjord. No place to camp, no place to rest, we were at the point of turning back when we saw a resident (wearing an elegant plaid pyjama!) talking with a neighbour. I dressed myself with my best friendliness and approached them with my map in hand. Pointing to my map, I politely asked the man with the pyjama if there was a place nearby where we could spend the night. As I expected, only private land was all around us. I thanked him and as I turned back, he stopped me and offered us to stay on one of his land parcels a few hundred feet away.







Just like that, we spent the night beside a huge raspberry field with the Saguenay River fjord in front of us enjoying the hospitality of a man who trusted an unknown family. Surely, he said to himself: «Hey this guy drives a Landcruiser! » We ate an uncountable amount fleshy raspberries as no one ever has.

During the night it poured a rain like we never saw since the beginning of our trip. But in the early morning, the birds whistling woke us to a fantastic sunny day. The sun rays were all over the place announcing a great day to travel.




 

David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
We followed the Saguenay River south down to Tadoussac, a city at the confluent of the Saguenay River and the great Saint-Laurence River. Slightly east there are huge sand dunes bordering the Saint-Laurence River. For our final night, the eighth, I parked the Amiral and opened the RTT on the edge of the dunes. The wind was blowing as hard as when we were at the border of the James Bay. Still the temperature was warmer. The night arrived bringing with it a lighter wind and we were able to set a fire camp in an old abandoned barrel. The Saint-Laurence River, at night, with its few lighthouses, buoys and the numerous houses strewn on the opposite shore offered us a fantastic show of human occupation which was an uncommon thing to marvel at since our departure.





The last day was dedicated to our home-coming trip. We drove the final stretch west along the St-Laurence River carrying with us an already nostalgic feeling. But if we look close behind us, we were able to appreciate, taiga, human technological feats, uncountable stars and Aurora borealis, wildlife, mighty, wide and bottomless rivers, boreal forest, endless roads, intense winds, stunning landscapes, fjords steep cliffs and family fellowship. I am blessed to live in such an incredible country that offers such various places to enjoy and to be able to drive it all with my magnificent wife, Julie and one of my sons, Alexis, in the most honorable and venerable rig, my Landcruiser.

 

J!m

Active member
Great area!

I was up there 2006 or 7 in the winter. A couple highlights were the talcum powder fine snow giving a clear indication of door seal leak locations overnight (with a tell-take indoor snow drift)

And visiting the hydro station. It was about 100 degrees (f) in there!!!

Thanks for sharing your trip!
 

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