Roofing companies too, it’s used under commercial “flat” roofs
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ITTOG's Truck Camper Build (was 6' x 12' Trailer Conversion)
- Thread starter ITTOG
- Start date
Roofing companies too, it’s used under commercial “flat” roofs
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ITTOG
Well-known member
This will solve the cutting problem. Should make it pretty easy to cut 1.5" wide by 1.5" deep. I have never used one so I am assuming it works as described.
AmazonSmile: Electric Knife Hot Knife Foam Cutter Foam sculpture hot knife cutter (Foam Cutter) : Arts, Crafts & Sewing
If it does work, then I can glue it to the frame so it doesn't come down. Then the inside skin can be fastened to the insulation only so I have a thermal break. Sounds good in theory.
AmazonSmile: Electric Knife Hot Knife Foam Cutter Foam sculpture hot knife cutter (Foam Cutter) : Arts, Crafts & Sewing
If it does work, then I can glue it to the frame so it doesn't come down. Then the inside skin can be fastened to the insulation only so I have a thermal break. Sounds good in theory.
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ITTOG
Well-known member
Date: Mar 27, 2022
Time: 3 hours
Total Time to Date: 215 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: 631 pounds
Roof: 123 (need to reweigh and add lift support weight)
Camper: 460 (calculated)
Wedge Weight: 48
With all my fiberglass materials ordered it was time to get ready for installing it. So I needed to get the outside floor installed which means I had to turn the camper over. One thing is for sure, it is getting a lot harder for me to turn over something weighing over 600 pounds, but I did get it done.
Once it was turned over I had to cut holes in my 1/2" plywood so it will sit flat on the frame. The holes are for my four drop pockets to use the truck bed bolts for securing the camper and four pegs at the rear for the lift mechanism. I also used a router to chamfer the holes to allow for the welds.
Once that was done, It was time to cut the wood to size with the router. This turned into quite the chore. Between my inexperience having never used a router and what I guess were cheap bits it took much longer than it should have. I had three bearings come off and several mistakes in the wood and steel occurred. Luckily nothing too bad though. Once I receive the bit I will round the outside edge of the boards to eliminate the 90 degree bend.
Here is the wood after being cut. It is 67" wide at the widest part and it is about 48" wide at the narrowest part. It is almost 78" long.
I have had this piece of wood for a couple years now so it was a bit warped. Thus I stacked weights and clamped it down.
Before I do the fiberglass I will either glue the board to the camper or screw it to the camper. If the glue will never come off that would be my preference because it would prevent holes in the frame. First time ever fiberglassing coming up next. I look forward to it, except for all the angles my custom solution has. Hopefully it doesn't create major problems for me.
Time: 3 hours
Total Time to Date: 215 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: 631 pounds
Roof: 123 (need to reweigh and add lift support weight)
Camper: 460 (calculated)
Wedge Weight: 48
With all my fiberglass materials ordered it was time to get ready for installing it. So I needed to get the outside floor installed which means I had to turn the camper over. One thing is for sure, it is getting a lot harder for me to turn over something weighing over 600 pounds, but I did get it done.
Once it was turned over I had to cut holes in my 1/2" plywood so it will sit flat on the frame. The holes are for my four drop pockets to use the truck bed bolts for securing the camper and four pegs at the rear for the lift mechanism. I also used a router to chamfer the holes to allow for the welds.
Once that was done, It was time to cut the wood to size with the router. This turned into quite the chore. Between my inexperience having never used a router and what I guess were cheap bits it took much longer than it should have. I had three bearings come off and several mistakes in the wood and steel occurred. Luckily nothing too bad though. Once I receive the bit I will round the outside edge of the boards to eliminate the 90 degree bend.
Here is the wood after being cut. It is 67" wide at the widest part and it is about 48" wide at the narrowest part. It is almost 78" long.
I have had this piece of wood for a couple years now so it was a bit warped. Thus I stacked weights and clamped it down.
Before I do the fiberglass I will either glue the board to the camper or screw it to the camper. If the glue will never come off that would be my preference because it would prevent holes in the frame. First time ever fiberglassing coming up next. I look forward to it, except for all the angles my custom solution has. Hopefully it doesn't create major problems for me.
You may already be aware, but, when cutting that insulation with a hot-knife/hot-wire, DON'T breathe the fumes. Keep spouses/kids/pets/animals from the fumes as well.
Hot-knives and hot-wire-cutters can be incredibly useful, BUT, I think you would be better served by locating 1.5" thick XPS foam insulation and cutting it to fit (possibly with a hot-wire-cutter "table saw") than cutting channels out of 2" XPS foam insulation.
ITTOG
Well-known member
Yes I am aware but thanks for the reminder. I do wear a mask and I have a big fan blowing on it to push the fumes away as quickly as possible. I started using this setup when I was doing all the welding and grinding and it worked perfectly so I will continue using it.
I agree finding 1.5 inch and 1 inch would be the best solution. I have checked dallas, Oklahoma city, in Tulsa without any luck. So maybe this stuff does not exist in this region.
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I'm glad you are aware and being careful!
You might want to see if your local Home Depot can order the Owen Corning Foamular rigid XPS insulation in 1.5" x 4' x 8'.
I just checked, and there are about 1200 sheets in stock within 75 miles of me, and, that is just the Home Depot stores.
You might check the following link. I have no idea of the cost, but they appear to be in Houston TX:I'm glad you are aware and being careful!
You might want to see if your local Home Depot can order the Owen Corning Foamular rigid XPS insulation in 1.5" x 4' x 8'.
I just checked, and there are about 1200 sheets in stock within 75 miles of me, and, that is just the Home Depot stores.
1 1/2 in x 4 ft x 8 ft Owens Corning FOAMULAR Rigid Foam Insulation
tejasmaterials.com
ITTOG
Well-known member
Date: April 9 and 10, 2022
Time: 6 hours
Total Time to Date: 221 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: 651 pounds
Roof: 123 (need to reweigh and add lift support weight)
Camper: 480 (calculated)
Wedge Weight: 48
In preparation to skin the bottom of the camper and to get it weatherproof I had to buy a lot of supplies. The supplies included fiberglass mat, epoxy, fiberglassing supplies and tools, bondo with glass, and paint for touchup.
After applying Sikaflex to the bottom of the frame I added the wood and put a lot of weight on it to ensure good contact. I let it cure overnight before removing the weight.
Given I did not have the wings painted I needed to apply bondo to ensure they did not rust. The first pic is after I applied the first batch. Given it hardens fairly quickly, probably within 10 minutes, I had to keep the batches small. The time is dependent on how much hardener you add. But I was able to experiment and get it completed. This is just enough to cover the steel and I will need to add a lot more. Does anyone know when adding additional bondo if should I leave the initial application as is or should I sand it first?
Turned the camper over and began touch up on the paint.
Time: 6 hours
Total Time to Date: 221 hours
Rework: 0 hours
Total Rework to Date: 79 hours (not part of time above)
Current Weight: 651 pounds
Roof: 123 (need to reweigh and add lift support weight)
Camper: 480 (calculated)
Wedge Weight: 48
In preparation to skin the bottom of the camper and to get it weatherproof I had to buy a lot of supplies. The supplies included fiberglass mat, epoxy, fiberglassing supplies and tools, bondo with glass, and paint for touchup.
After applying Sikaflex to the bottom of the frame I added the wood and put a lot of weight on it to ensure good contact. I let it cure overnight before removing the weight.
Given I did not have the wings painted I needed to apply bondo to ensure they did not rust. The first pic is after I applied the first batch. Given it hardens fairly quickly, probably within 10 minutes, I had to keep the batches small. The time is dependent on how much hardener you add. But I was able to experiment and get it completed. This is just enough to cover the steel and I will need to add a lot more. Does anyone know when adding additional bondo if should I leave the initial application as is or should I sand it first?
Turned the camper over and began touch up on the paint.
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ITTOG
Well-known member
Unfortunately I am having hip surgery next week and will be out of commission for 6 to 8 weeks. So getting the camper completed enough to not rust was the primary goal so it can sit in storage. The only thing I did not have time to do was seal the wood on the bottom. Hopefully the tarp will be enough to keep rain off of it. If not, I will just have to replace it. I am hoping to find some time to get some wood sealer and apply it real quick.
If I don't have the time to apply some wood sealer I may have to get something to put along the sides at the bottom of the tarp to ensure rain is not blown in.
If I don't have the time to apply some wood sealer I may have to get something to put along the sides at the bottom of the tarp to ensure rain is not blown in.
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Bondo is the Maine State Seal, but, I don't have much experience with it.
... I suspect that it will have a film that will need to be cleaned. Rough sandpaper should leave lots of tooth for the next layer to grab, but, what does the Bondo packaging suggest?May your hip replacement and recovery go smoothly and quickly!
ITTOG
Well-known member
I have a couple spots I will need to build it up to about 1/2" thick. The metal had to bend in two planes so it is wavy. I want to make it look like one plane with the bondo. But noted that I should sand before applying more. I will use a 40 grit to sand it so should have lots to grab onto.
mekcanix
Camper
this is very cool build. I just finished remaking /making a floor for my wetbath in my camper, which is of a infinitesimal percentage of what you are doing and it stressed the crap out of me. So I have some envy here. Also I wish you success and a speedy recovery on your surgery
John
John
ITTOG
Well-known member
Thanks for the kind words. I definitely wanted to make sure it was unique.