ITTOG's Overlanding Trips

Thank you for sharing this!! Looked like something you'll never forget and definitely got my mind fixated on wanting to do it. This was a fantastic trip report. Seriously, great job writing this up.
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
Thank you for sharing this!! Looked like something you'll never forget and definitely got my mind fixated on wanting to do it. This was a fantastic trip report. Seriously, great job writing this up.

No problem and thanks for the kind words. Yes it will always be a memory I look back on with fondness. This was just day two of a six day hike. It gets better.
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
August 25 - Day 3
The route for the day is to leave the Platforms campsite and go to the Lower Granite Canyon campsites. The trails along the route are Garnet Canyon Trail, Amphitheater Lake Trail, Valley Trail, Beaver Creek Trail, Death Canyon Trail, Valley Trail (again), and Granite Canyon Trail.
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With the excitement of summiting the Middle Teton and my friend Alex seeing a black bear behind us, we knew today would be long. It was to be our longest hike of the trip and most of it would be in the flatlands at the base of the mountains. Thus, we were expecting it to be a bit dull compared to the previous two days. Alex decided to leave earlier than me so we didn't leave at the same time. After a little discussion he departed and I finished packing. Alex left a little before 7:45 AM and I left about 8:35 AM. After breakfast and packing, I began my hike by really taking in the beauty around me. I really liked the Platforms campsite and wanted to make sure I remembered it well.
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With that out of the way, I began descending and ended up running into several grouse. It’s a bird so nothing special but I was a little excited because I have never seen one, other than on TV. I hoped it might be a good omen for seeing my first wildlife today.
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Along my hike to catch up to Alex I passed about four groups of hikers and some park rangers asking me if I was Lance. Apparently Alex was very chatty this morning and I had conversations with each group. It was kind of fun. It was really interesting with the park rangers because I ran into a ranger from the first day of our hike. In the park a permit is required for camping and it identifies the camping zones you have booked. You must have it on your pack while hiking or on your tent when in camp. They only give you one permit to display. So on day one, during one of the times Alex and I were not together I ran into a ranger. We had a good conversation but given my pack size he knew I was overnighting and he asked me about my permit. I told him Alex had it and why we were not together. I know/felt he was thinking I have heard this a thousand times and didn't believe a word I was saying. Luckily he let me go and I didn't think of it again. So guess who I run into, the ranger from the first day. I was hoping he didn't remember me but he did. I was a bit nervous but luckily he had ran into Alex earlier today and luckily Alex was chatty with him and the other rangers as well. Thus, this conversation with the ranger was better and more enjoyable. Probably not so interesting or funny to anyone but me.

I don't know when I caught up to Alex but I know it was before getting to any of the lakes. This is the first picture I took of any water and it was at 10:11 AM. Yeah, not really important but I always wanted to know how long it took us to get back together. LOL! But it was nice being together when enjoying the lakes. A lot of good conversation during our stops at the different lakes.
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Other phones probably do this as well, but I love how my Pixel automatically creates enhanced photos. Usually it is just a filter applied to a picture but sometimes it is much cooler like the pano below. I did not take this, it just automatically stitched it together.
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To be continued...
 

1000arms

Well-known member
... Along my hike to catch up to Alex I passed about four groups of hikers and some park rangers asking me if I was Lance. Apparently Alex was very chatty this morning and I had conversations with each group. It was kind of fun. It was really interesting with the park rangers because I ran into a ranger from the first day of our hike. In the park a permit is required for camping and it identifies the camping zones you have booked. You must have it on your pack while hiking or on your tent when in camp. They only give you one permit to display. So on day one, during one of the times Alex and I were not together I ran into a ranger. We had a good conversation but given my pack size he knew I was overnighting and he asked me about my permit. I told him Alex had it and why we were not together. I know/felt he was thinking I have heard this a thousand times and didn't believe a word I was saying. Luckily he let me go and I didn't think of it again. So guess who I run into, the ranger from the first day. I was hoping he didn't remember me but he did. I was a bit nervous but luckily he had ran into Alex earlier today and luckily Alex was chatty with him and the other rangers as well. Thus, this conversation with the ranger was better and more enjoyable. Probably not so interesting or funny to anyone but me. ...
Take a picture of your next permit before you go out, take picture(s) of your hiking partner(s) too, and have your partner(s) do the same.

Hopefully the pictures will simply be part of happy memories, but, having photographs does make it easier to ask, "Have you seen ... ?".

How was your leg?

Stay safe and keep hiking! :)
 

Todd n Natalie

OverCamper
Other phones probably do this as well, but I love how my Pixel automatically creates enhanced photos. Usually it is just a filter applied to a picture but sometimes it is much cooler like the pano below. I did not take this, it just automatically stitched it together.
View attachment 621534

To be continued...
Hmm... I don't think my Iphone does that.

Great pictures by the way!
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
Take a picture of your next permit before you go out, take picture(s) of your hiking partner(s) too, and have your partner(s) do the same.

Hopefully the pictures will simply be part of happy memories, but, having photographs does make it easier to ask, "Have you seen ... ?".

How was your leg?

Stay safe and keep hiking! :)
Yeah I don't know why I didn't take one of the permit after the initial contact. I guess I figured the chance of seeing the same ranger would be almost zero. Clearly I figured wrong.

I did have pictures of my hiking partner. Best friends so I have pictures of him on and off the trail. Along with his family if needed.

If you are talking about the leg the cutoff wheel tried to cutoff it was fine. I didn't have any issues with that but you will read about other issues this broken, beat, and scarred body has.

Hmm... I don't think my Iphone does that.

Great pictures by the way!
Too bad, it is a great feature.

Thanks.
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
After passing Bradley and Taggert Lakes it was a relatively flat trail with a lot of fields like this. It may not look like much but it was pretty. Especially after such a dry and hot summer back home.
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The final lake we saw this day was Phelps Lake. This was from the Phelps Lake Overlook It was much more remote so not nearly as many people here.
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As we started descending from the overlook, we ran into people telling us there was a bear and a cub about a half mile down trail. Finally, I may get to see my first wildlife. I was excited and concerned at the same time. So we began looking for them, especially after every turn in the switchbacks. We went over a half mile so we were starting to think the bears were gone but after turning another switchback we saw a guy about a 100 yards down trail taking video down the mountain. We quickly saw a cub that he was videoing and began looking for the mother. The vegetation was a bit thick so we slowed down and were looking uphill and downhill of the trail. Eventually, we heard a branch snap and immediately saw the mother. She was well camouflaged.
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Before I took the pic above, a lot happened. When the branch snapped the bear was only six to eight feet from us and it was uphill. For two people that do not have a lot of experience around bears we probably didn't respond well. Immediately after hearing the branch snap we spotted the bear and realized it could be on top of us before we even moved. Now, it is important to understand our positioning. Alex was in front and I was behind him close to the downhill side of the trail. Once we spotted the bear, I took a step back and fell directly on my back/pack because my step back was off the trail. Due to this I did not see what Alex did but I knew he was nowhere in sight. At this point I was looking directly at the bear and given she didn't move, I slowly got up and started walking backwards. Soon I ran into Alex who was well behind where we first saw the bear (slight exaggeration, maybe). Back a little from the bear we began filming both of them. It was amazing to be so close to them without any walls between us.

Once mom was done with her snack she crossed the path and went down to her cub and they climbed a tree together.

After descending to lake level we were walking around the western edge of the lake and could hear people yelling and having fun. Not long after that we could see across the lake and people where cliff jumping into the lake. I love to cliff jump so I was a little jealous. Not to mention it was really hot and I was ready to jump in. Well, it was really just a giant rock. We were so far away I couldn't tell the height but I would guess at least 20' high.

After the bears and starting to leave the lake area we were in a lot of high vegetation with berries so we were on high alert for a little while but didn't see any more bears.

We had been on the trail for over seven hours and with an estimated 3.5 hours to go we decided it was time to take a break. Luckily we found a nice stream of water and set down and relaxed with our feet getting a nice cold bath. Talk about refreshing. It was just what we needed and felt great after getting used to the sharp cold at first. We also refilled on water as we were both getting low.
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Finally, a little after 6 PM we made it to our campsite. As usual we waited until we had a flowing stream nearby. It sure makes bathing, gathering water, and sleeping easier. While I was gathering water for dinner Alex was unpacking inside his tent and heard a lot of limbs breaking. He thought it was me and didn't think anything of it until the branches started sounding larger and happening more frequently. He stood up and saw a cow moose and calf about 10' away. He has all the luck but was so lucky to not get mauled. By the time he got his phone out they were back on the trail.


The recorded statistics for the day are as follows.
Mileage: 15.8
Altitude Gain: 1,455
Duration: 10:33

To be continued...
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
August 26 - Day 4

The route for the day is to leave the Lower Granite Canyon campsite and go to the Death Shelf campsites. The trails along the route are Granite Canyon Trail and Teton Crest Trail.
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Today's hike will take us on a slow and steady climb over 7.5 miles and transition to fairly flat to finish the day. There were some beautiful spots and it was a tough day for me but I am getting ahead of myself.

Today we didn't leave camp until about 9:30 AM. I guess getting up early felt more like work instead of the leisurely hike we were after. Knowing we were halfway through the trip made me stop and take in everything a bit more than I had in the past.

With the hike started I noticed I was not feeling very energized. I wasn't sick, just felt like I didn't have my normal energy level. I had a full dehydrated meal for two this morning so not sure what the problem was. There was no way I could have eaten anymore, I was stuffed. Given this, we departed camp together and I stayed with Alex the entire morning. It wasn't long before we saw our first waterfall and nice views of the creek coming down the mountain. Given we were climbing I expected there to be a lot more waterfalls today.
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As you will find out, there were a lot of beautiful colors along todays hike. Too bad pictures don't always do them justice. Here it looks like there was more green but in person it seemed like there were a lot more yellows, oranges, and red.
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Not much of a waterfall but pretty nonetheless.
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We did not climb this but I thought it was interesting and was a trail. However I didn't find anything on any of the trail maps.
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It is starting to be like the waterfalls. Flowers…
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Somewhere along the way we stopped for lunch. Within ten minutes of eating I was feeling better and was glad that was over.

Looking back along the trail.
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No matter the size or how much water was flowing, I always stopped.
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To be continued...
 
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ITTOG

Well-known member
Given the lush vegetation and stream in this meadow we were shocked to find there were no moose or bears. It seemed like the perfect spot to us.
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Sometimes there would just be a few flowers.
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Sometimes a little more.
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At other times you would see an entire hillside of flowers. Either way, they were usually pretty.
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Another look back down the valley. You couldn't see far in this valley due to trees or the hills within them.
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It is interesting to see the pictures I took along the way. This pic is looking back at a lake, Marion Lake, I had just left. The lake and the setting was beautiful. Why is this the only picture I took? Why did I not take one or more while I was at the lake. Such a missed opportunity even if I was tired of all the lakes.
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Luckily I did take a video while at the lake and after seeing it I may have skipped the pic due to not being able to get the lake and the backdrop all in on one pic? Marion Lake and Backdrop

To be continued...
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
A little after leaving Marion Lake I passed a sign that indicated I was at Fox Creek Pass in the Jedidiah Smith Wilderness. So I was no longer in the Grand Teton National Park and this was just the beginning of the change to come. Soon after this, or maybe at the same time, the terrain changed very quickly. At almost the blink of an eye it transitioned to an alpine desert. It was very surreal and like nothing I have ever experienced before. If it wasn't for the flowers, I may have considered it ugly, but really it was just different and unexpected.
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Clearly, it was different, but NOT ugly. If only we could all learn that.

This is the first look at the Tetons from the west side. Okay, really the South Southwest side.
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About 80 minutes after seeing the Fox Creek Pass sign I saw another. But this time it indicated elevation 9,560' and it was a bear habitat. So why did they feel the need to indicate this was a bear habitat? Isn't the entire area a bear habitat? Was the bear density much higher in this part and we need to be more careful? Not knowing, I proceeded with care and quickly forgot about the sign.

With about another hour of hiking left for the day, the back of my left knee began to hurt. I have had quite a few knee injuries and one surgery so this isn't too much of a surprise. However it was different than any pain before and the location was different. This pain was in the tendons on the back, outside of my left knee. It hurt going up and down the leg. With the way the morning began this was a bit of a letdown as the pain slowly increased.
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Another shot of the Tetons before getting to camp.
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We kept hiking looking for a campsite until we found a water source. Being on top of a flat area the water wasn't nearly as abundant as in the foothills or during climbs. It is hard to see in this picture but this was a drop of about 10' which isn't anything special. What was cool about it is this 10' drop was in a hole about 20' in diameter and then the water disappeared into the mountain. I should have taken a pic further away showing the hole that opens up.
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After getting into camp and taking my pack off my knee was feeling better and all the pain was gone within 15 to 30 minutes. That allowed the evenings activities to be enjoyable. As I went to bed I thought about what a weird day it had been on the health front. Glad that was over so the final two days can be enjoyed. Not to mention the last day was going to be one of the hardest in terms of elevation gain. Sweet dreams!
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The recorded statistics for the day are as follows.
Mileage: 11.3
Altitude Gain: 3,090
Duration: 8:53


To be continued...
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
August 27 - Day 5

The route for the day is to leave the Death Shelf campsites and go to the Cascade Canyon North Fork campsites. The trails along the route are Teton Crest Trail, South Fork Cascade Canyon Trail, and Lake Solitude Trail.
Day 5 Original Plan.png

But before I get to far into today's activities, it was a crazy night. I don't know when it began but we had rain, crazy high winds, and even higher gusts. It woke me up (and kept me up for a while) and you could hear them coming over the mountains, hitting the shelf we were camped on, and then going down into Death Canyon. Luckily, we were camped at the base of a towering cliff so we didn't get any of the wind in camp and our tents were relatively still given what was going on around us. I would have loved to been out in it to get an idea of how fast the winds were.
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It has rained three of the four nights but luckily it has been light. Last night was the heaviest and our rain fly's were soaked and other items damp when we woke up. So we were slow to depart to let things dry a bit and we hit the trail about 10 AM. That was probably too late given we have almost 12.5 miles to go. It will definitely be a late arrival but it should be before dark which is really the only major concern.
As can be seen in the route map above, the first five miles of today's hike is relatively flat so we would be in the alpine desert a while. I don’t think it was intentional but I did not take a lot of pictures today, which was probably a mistake. However I got a few good ones. This is right outside camp from the shelf looking into death canyon.
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I should have taken this photo in the same place as above and had it stitched into a pano.
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A short video looking down into death canyon. It is stunning and I should have taken much more video.
The morning started out great with all the beautiful sights to gaze at but about fifteen minutes into it the beauty was far from my mind. The pain I began having at the end of yesterday started coming back. I couldn't believe it. I have a lot of distance and increase in elevation to complete before this trip is over.

There isn't a lot of water up here but some. Most of them appeared to have the same fate.
Thirty minutes into the hike the pain is about all that is on my mind as it is becoming much more intense and shooting up into my hip and down into my foot. My thoughts are quickly changing from enjoying the hike to how far can I go. Not sure at what point it was but we begin discussing alternative plans for the day and tomorrow. Alex began thinking about finding a quick way out or getting help but the last thing I wanted was to have to be rescued. So we decided to get to lunch and re-evaluate. Not the easiest thing to see but you can see a little swelling behind my left knee and on the left side of it. It sure doesn't look as bad as it feels. What a wuss I have turned into!
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To the east there are great views of the Tetons from most locations of the trail.
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To the west, cliff walls with scree and boulders at the bottom of them were everywhere. The views were amazing everywhere you looked.
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To be continued...
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
When I came to the edge and could see we were about to go down, just to go back up on the other side I had a lot of thoughts about giving up at this point but that just isn't in my nature. But I definitely didn't want to descend into this small valley.
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Making the best of it, I was glad to see this nice stream. By far the largest we had come across since being in the alpine area.
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I believe this is the lake feeding the stream. It was a little neater than the others due to the island in it.

Climbing back up out of the valley.
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…and we have flowers.
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Not to be outdone, a waterfall. Does that count? Yes!
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Looking back at the valley we just crossed. That sucked! Oh how I hope there is nothing more to climb. At this point I know I have to take the shortest path out to ensure I am able to make it out on my own two feet.
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Here you can see Sunset Lake and was a great spot to have lunch. By the trees to the right of the lake was a campsite that was a little ways above the lake and would have been a cool campsite.
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To be continued...
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
During lunch we talked about the planned route and the need to develop a new plan (at least I think that is when). It was decided to scrap our plan to climb up to Lake Solitude and come down Paintbrush Canyon. The route change had us camping at the Cascade Canyon South Fork campsites instead of the Cascade Canyon North Fork campsites. The trails along the route are Teton Crest Trail and the South Fork Cascade Canyon Trail. Yes we would be camping in a spot we were not permitted for but my knee did not care. I was a bit bummed we had to change our plans but luckily Alex didn't mind.
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I guess this may not classify as flowers but the colors are pretty together.
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These were probably the prettiest flowers I came across.
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After about five hours we arrived at Hurricane Pass and the visuals were stunning. These are the Teton's from the west side. Looking east, north, and west respectively.
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The original route had us climbing up the mountains in the foreground. This is why we changed our route.
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The Teton's from Hurricane Pass
This is zoomed in on the Middle Teton. The next picture shows the approximate path to the top.
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To be continued...
 

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