is THIS a good place for recovery attachment? REAR of F350 SuperDuty

LosAngeles

Active member
is THIS a good place for recovery attachment? REAR of F350 SuperDuty

Hi all

Is this place (see photos) a good place for a recovery attachment? on the REAR a current F350 SuperDuty (with a Kinetic recovery rope)

oh and I would much rather NOT buy any accessory loop that goes into the hitch, as i'll always have something else IN the hitch, with a lock on it... so I'd rather just attach my shackle to a safe place.

It looks to all be welded to the frame, but wanted to make sure this was good.

and yes, that is a Van Beest green pin shackle. Super strong.

Thanks
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1989.jpg
    IMG_1989.jpg
    84.7 KB · Views: 65
  • IMG_1990.jpg
    IMG_1990.jpg
    143.1 KB · Views: 65
  • IMG_1991.jpg
    IMG_1991.jpg
    126.4 KB · Views: 57

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Nope.

I ripped a tree out of the earth there, and that loop got bent up on my previous truck. That's just for trailer chains.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Just my $0.02 but the hitch tabs for trailer chains would probably bend in a recovery. Whether it's safe I dunno, it's not as ideal as using a receiver adapter in the hitch.

What I think is the main problem is getting the shackle safely loaded. They can't tolerate being in just any random orientation.

shackle-orientations.jpg

I carry a stack of washers to use as packing when I have to attach shackles to keep the load centered and the shackle from rotating. This is a recovery point that I used to have on the front of my truck, which was 1/2" thick and so the shackle would slide side-to-side.

IMG_0256_mid.jpg
 

LosAngeles

Active member
Hi all... Thanks all for the good thoughts. I sort of had my doubts.... so i am glad I asked.

so this hitch loop (link below) is rated for 10,000 lbs and my big hard shackle *will* fit thru it - how would this be?

I like the idea of a solid forged loop, as it is likely less likely to fail.... as opposed to the kind with the "shackle" and pin ..... fewer moving parts, fewer possible points of failure.

thoughts? Thanks.

https://www.grainger.com/product/REESE-Tow-Eye-2ZPV7
https://www.grainger.com/product/REESE-Tow-Eye-2ZPV7
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
There's nothing inherently better about this:

2ZPV7_AS01_mid.jpg

Than this:
F143839724_mid.jpg


They're both just forged, cast or machined hunks of steel or aluminum.

The weak point is going to the be hitch pin, hitch itself, the connection to the strap. How do you intend to make the connection to the cast loop like the top one? It's going to require a shackle or hook.

The advantage to the shackle style is the shackle is located in its correct orientation and can't rotate. It'll carry its full rating in that case. You have to derate a shackle if the load is not inline.

shackle-8.JPG
 

LosAngeles

Active member
Hi Dave

Well I see your point....

However the forged one piece loop you posted a photo of has a weight limit of 10,000 lbs, according to the manufacturer

And can be had for $27.

The “shackle” type I have seen have a weight limit stated as 8,000 lbs. I bet there are similar with a higher published weight limit, but I have not seen them yet.

But if they exist they may well cost more than $27 and unless I am missing something they don’t offer any advantages to me.... ?

I already own top quality shackles.

Thanks for any info. I am here to learn. :)


There's nothing inherently better about this:

View attachment 570917

Than this:
View attachment 570919


They're both just forged, cast or machined hunks of steel or aluminum.

The weak point is going to the be hitch pin, hitch itself, the connection to the strap. How do you intend to make the connection to the cast loop like the top one? It's going to require a shackle or hook.

The advantage to the shackle style is the shackle is located in its correct orientation and can't rotate. It'll carry its full rating in that case. You have to derate a shackle if the load is not inline.

View attachment 570920
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
seconding the hitch shackle mount. That flange on that Class 4(?) hitch will bend / tear.

smittybilt's insert says it's good to 9,500#. Although the amazon text is seemingly blathering about the rating of the shackle itself

This one claims a break strength of over 40,000#, and that's with two crossed holes thru it.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
A 3/4" screw pin shackle is rated 4.75 tons (9,500 lbs). But this is the working load limit. Certified shackles (like for overhead) are proof tested to 2x (19,000 lbs) that and will have a design margin of 5x (47,500 lbs). So the real world limit is likely the 5/8" hitch pin and that's in double shear. I'd worry more about how well the hitch or recovery point is connected to the truck and the quality of the strap.
 

nitro_rat

Lunchbox Lockers
The eye of a 4" nylon web sling fits right in a 2" receiver, just stick a pin in it. Pin the other end to another truck and done. Yes you may bend the pin but I've never bent one bad enough that I couldn't remove it by hand. And this is making "snatch" type pulls that would mangle a bumper mounted hitch. Only use the snatch technique when you have a strong attachment point like a frame hitch, never looped over a ball on a bumper, you will definitely pretzel a bumper!!!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,840
Messages
2,878,747
Members
225,393
Latest member
jgrillz94
Top