Because the 10 leaf sat lower than the 19 year old stock 9 leaf on the other side... 10 leafs on both sides to carry rated GVRW.
Ya this one definitely took a bit of thinking, and I was sick at the time and probably could have saved some frustration by waiting until I had a clearer head. All that said, now that I fully understand the system they had in place, it was a really simple set of changes. I haven't added a fuse/breaker yet, although that might not be a bad idea. The house batteries can be cut off from the system with this switch, but I wasn't sure how many amps I might pull to simultaneously charge batteries and run a load from the rear. I snagged one of these hall effect ammeters which I can use to get a baseline at various points in the circuit (much easier than using a shunt, and my multimeter won't even think about reading 400A).Unfortunately, beer won't help while doing this. lol
Question: Are you going to put in a breaker or fuse for the alternator(s) circuit? I'm thinking I will use a 150 or 200 amp
Right now I'm actually only planning to send only 1 alternator through the isolator, but will route both if it causes too much of a voltage drop – it's unclear to me how the factory regulators work on a dual alternator setup when each is exposed to different loads. The isolator is a diode-type Sure Power 24023A-1B that I got a pretty good deal on, which can handle my 220A if I route both alternators through it.Have you chosen your diodes? Ok, you got me. That's 2 questions....
That's a great point - while they don't angle on a hinge or anything, they can easily be detached from the rails with an Allen wrench, lifted, and cleaned. That was a big reason for using their rails over individual attachment points.That looks good and if it's the right kind of tape, it should be more than strong enough to keep the panels in place.
Do your panels angle up, or is there anyway to get under them for cleaning purposes? You may not have a problem where you are, but here in Florida with our high humidity, mold and mildew buildup is a considerable problem. Without a way to clean under them, we would have a black fuzzy mess growing under there in less than six months.
Ya, this is my big concern as well, and I really, really (overly) consulted 3M's data sheets on this one; the tape I ended up using has slightly higher temperature ratings than their general purpose version, and the fiberglass does an amazing job at staying cool even in direct desert sun; the one thing I am going to monitor diligently at first is the temperature of the aluminum rails themselves. If the are subject to heating up too much, I'll have to add some sort of reinforcements, but by being uncoated aluminumIn principle I know VHB tape is rated to do the job... But I've hung signs using anchors with VHB tape designed to secure them... Long story short, they all fell down as soon as the sun warmed the tape. Fortunately no one was hurt... Wouldn't be the same if you loose a panel on the freeway.
Ya, just clean really, really well (make sure there's no more white coming off), degrease w/ alcohol, and that's it. We attached the panels to the rails first, applied the tape to the rails (keeping the backing on the fiberglass side), got the rails exactly where we wanted them, and then just peeled the backing off without moving the panels. It was a SUPER easy install, thanks to the suction cup.I need to try and attach some panels to my roof which I think is the same. So just cleaning and tape and thats that? Mine seems so flimsy through most of it. Always worried about how to add attachments to the roof.
Yes, I've been considering that but mostly out of paranoia: according to the technical data sheet, 72 hours in water, salt water, hydraulic fluid, motor oil, or antifreeze had no effect on peel adhesion; their technical bulletin on durability shows that wet/dry cycles are not harmful.It might not be a bad idea to head to your local RV place and get some self leveling Dicor. If you go all around the perimeter edge of your rails it'll keep water from getting to the tape and doing what water likes to do in such cases, somehow screw everything up.
Thinking either this or just mounting a single panel up from where the light bar used to be.Ya, just clean really, really well (make sure there's no more white coming off), degrease w/ alcohol, and that's it. We attached the panels to the rails first, applied the tape to the rails (keeping the backing on the fiberglass side), got the rails exactly where we wanted them, and then just peeled the backing off without moving the panels. It was a SUPER easy install, thanks to the suction cup.