International 4700 4X4 Rescue Conversion

[motorman]

next on the list was to remove the rubber floor as the final step before soundproofing
what a mess and pain in the kazoo to finally pull that kritter out
currently looking for a replacement or suitable solution to replace anyone have an idea where to source?
washed out the floor and will wire wheel the little rust present and then coat w/ POR 15
couple boxes of soundproofing are in the garage waiting for this to be completed

 

[DzlToy]

Expedition Portal

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EDIT: Dry ice is a great tool to use for removing stubborn, factory sound deadening materials. You probably won't find anything from Husky or WeatherTech for that truck, but should be able to have some thick, heavy-duty rubber matting cut from a pattern. Horse stall matting is tough stuff, but man, is it heavy.

 

[motorman]

floor mat is $830 at the international dealer
but they have one in stock . . . buy now before it is sold to someone else
looks like a horse mat or crossfit type mat is in the future
would be great for the holes to line up but $830 is 2 of the wheels i need to purchase

 

[motorman]

in order to soundproof i needed to have the pass through 'settled'
planning to have the batteries under the opening to serve as a sort of bench and centralize the weight in the cabin directly over the frame
the goal is to be able to sit in this transition area on the battery box and still see out the window and engage w/ the driver & passenger
enlarged the opening from 20" to 32" and the completed opening should be around 28" or so
this will leave enough height for the battery box and the planned 600ah lithium
purchased the 2" seal and it is not suitable (my opinion) as it will always be extended to the max in some areas, will going w/ 4" nominal seal

 

[motorman]

painted the cab floor w/ por-15 and it converted the rust and should wear like iron
we had a M1009 diesel blazer that received the same treatment and was very pleased




then went on to the soundproofing
kilmat everywhere possible


scrubbed down the headlner, valance and sun visors then reinstalled




have not really driven this thing more than back and forth from the driveway turning around
once i complete the rear panel and install the new seal ill go for a more extended run down the road and report back

we reinstalled the old rubber floor and will cut a stall mat from tractor supply to go on top of the larger areas

 

[motorman]

with an alternator the size of a bathroom trash can and rated 250A is solar going to be necessary?

considering 2 DC-DC chargers and a 800 AH battery bank im thinking solar is not necessary
driving a couple 3/4 hrs every other day would bring it to a high SOC if not full

seriously looking at the 400 AH server rack batteries that ram5500 camperthing turned me onto
a 2nd 400 AH battery is the price of the entire solar installation (panels + wiring + controller(s))
and having 800 AH would make for a formidable resource

 

[DzlToy]

5300 Whr Model S modules can be had for well under a grand. That is a 400 ah battery at 13.2 VDC.

 

[motorman]

last step to putting the cab back together and installing the new accordion seal
scrubbed the rear cab panel



it had the cutout for the window and i wanted to 'fill the void' with something
E-One had used carpet on the steel but we went a different rout
found a cutting mat at hobby lobby that was rigid yet flexible
cut it in half and used double sided tape to hold in place while the caulk dried





painted with dupli color and i think it turned out great

 

[motorman]

so many moving parts to update . . . where to start

removed passenger side rear door and welded in an AL panel
will make this more air tight and easier to insulate








cut some AL to plate over some of the scene lights & vents we removed
others will be replaced with current LED production or maybe plate them over too and add smaller & less expensive exterior lighting

 

[motorman]

cut holes for windows
this unit only had 1 window in the box that was not a door so we had to work off those general dims





and test fit



we could not install formally without completing the insulation

i did not fully understand the installation process with the Arctic Tern windows, part my fault part poor information (my opinion) and this was my first regret of not purchasing the Maygood windows off alibaba as they are mounting with 'clips' exerting pressure internally on the wall and the entire window sill / jamb does not apply the clamping force for installation

due to travel and other schedule related items i have holes in the box still to this day

 

[motorman]

cut a hole in the roof for our 9k btu Rec-Pro AC

went with the 9k over the 12k for a couple reasons
roof footprint
overall height
no need for heat pump
reduced current demand
no freight charge



planned the location so we only had to cut one structural element and minimized bracing we needed to add






installed the mounting ring with butyl tape first and then installed the AC unit and let it sit overnight

the following day i taped around the mounting plate and then applied some dicor lap sealant for the belt and suspenders
and covered with some cardboard for drying out of direct sun and then reinstalled the AC unit

 

[motorman]

then off to 2" rigid foam insulation land

every stud distance is different so i did not cut on a table saw
purchased a new 5" 40 tooth blade for my battery circular saw
along with a large right angle square you would use for sheet rock . . . hate the stuff!
measured the width and cut away
it is very tight and was installed without glue

took 4 days of 3-5 hrs each day to get this far






i started with the ceiling
once this was completed it dropped the internal temperature tremendously
previously the skin was too hot to touch during the heat of the day

now the beams are only warm to touch
i would say temp reduction is in excess of 20F in the box

 

[motorman]

plan is to now use 1/2" rigid foam to act as the thermal break between the studs and the interior wall

used the window trim as the template to trace and cut the insulation and it worked out great
knew it was correct when the frame dropped into the hole

the 2" foam is R10 and 1/2' is R3.5
but due to the AL studs transmitting some heat into the wall cavity i expect the total is in the R9-10 realm
could be even lower but will be wind and water tight!

will be installing 1" rigid foam on the floor w/ a R5 value

 

[billiebob]

Looks like an extra 1/2" over the studs which will dramatically reduce thermal brirging.
It looks amazing and is amazing the way these projects soak up the hours... even when just thinking.

 

[motorman]

Looks like an extra 1/2" over the studs which will dramatically reduce thermal brirging.
It looks amazing and is amazing the way these projects soak up the hours... even when just thinking.

the mental gymnastics are all consuming . . . indeed!