International 3800 adventure bus build

baipin

Active member
Fully mechanical baby! That was a must have for me. I really want to build a rig that has electronics for comfort amenities without needing them to move it down the road. That is also why I want to put a manual transmission in it. Less things to break.

I worked in a locomotive rebuild shop for 4 years where we repaired main frames using a fish-plate technique. This is also what is used to modify or repair heavy truck frame rails.

You mentioned that the splice is behind the rear axle. I think that part of the frame is under less stress than the areas between the front and rear axles or where the spring perches are mounted. My design for the frame mod is a sound design and has quality welds so I don’t think it will give me any problems. The bus was originally designed to carry 4400 lbs of passengers behind the rear axle and I don’t think I’ll have that much weight back there.


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Aaah, that's well thought out. Looking back at some of your older pics, I see those fish plates.

Indeed, as many mechanical systems as possible is the way to go! Right now I'm looking at a GMC B-series with a CAT 3126 or 3116 - which I've heard mixed things about, but they're less computerized than the alternative of an IC CE300 with a DT466E (no DEF, but does have DPF). It seems everything older than 20 years is rusty scrap around here in Ontario, since we use so much salt on our roads. The early-2000's GMC/Bluebirds do hold up well for their age though. Any opinion on those two?

Will you be doing a suspension lift on this? If so, how; blocks, new springs, something else?
 

HazeltheMooseWagon

Active member
Aaah, that's well thought out. Looking back at some of your older pics, I see those fish plates.

Indeed, as many mechanical systems as possible is the way to go! Right now I'm looking at a GMC B-series with a CAT 3126 or 3116 - which I've heard mixed things about, but they're less computerized than the alternative of an IC CE300 with a DT466E (no DEF, but does have DPF). It seems everything older than 20 years is rusty scrap around here in Ontario, since we use so much salt on our roads. The early-2000's GMC/Bluebirds do hold up well for their age though. Any opinion on those two?

Will you be doing a suspension lift on this? If so, how; blocks, new springs, something else?

I don’t really know much about the coach build quality of either one of those. I have heard really good things about the quality of the Thomas brand coachwork. I think anything that has minimal rust can make a good platform and I really like rivets vs screws. These medium duty truck foundations provide nearly limitless creative potential.

I am not a certified mechanic but I tend to study things until I understand enough about them to make an informed decision. I have read more good things about the International engines vs the CAT engines. The main reason I chose the mechanical DT466 was simplicity, durability, wet-sleeve for in-frame overhaul, and the famed Bosch P-series injection pump which is capable of making big horsepower and torque. I think if I couldn’t get an International, I would have searched for a bus with a Cummins. The 5.9 would only be desirable in a smaller bus but the 8.3 would be awesome in anything.

I plan on building radius arm suspensions front and rear with rolling-lobe air springs and lifting it about 6” to help clear 53” Michelin XZLs. I’ll post more pics of the fish plates and other frame work soon now that all the welding is finished. It has about 14 pounds of flux-core wire in the rear framework


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HazeltheMooseWagon

Active member
Well I received 8 gallons on Monstaliner All Nighter today. I have about 10 weeks to get it ready for paint and 2 weeks of afternoons and weekends to paint it.

I got my hitch permanently mounted and am almost ready to POR-15 all of the rear framework, the bumper and the hitch. Then I will mount the rear brake, turn signal, and reverse lights.

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HazeltheMooseWagon

Active member
Got some POR-15 on all the rear fab work I’ve done. I got all the wires pulled into the new bumper as well. Time to wire the rear lights and enclose the floor raise transition as the rear. Then I will mount the driver’s seat and take it back to the scales. I will visit the scales twice in the same day, the second time with a couple thousand pounds at the back to see how it handles and check the weight distribution front to rear.

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PlethoraOfGuns

Adventurer
Awesome crazy build! Great fab work. Also curious how it will handle offroad. One would be surprised by how much performance gain there is in just a differential locker. Might be getting overly ambitious with the departure angles and stuff. But then again, 90% of offroad capability really comes down to drivers skill and judgement. Good luck!
 

shortbus4x4

Expedition Leader
Awesome crazy build! Great fab work. Also curious how it will handle offroad. One would be surprised by how much performance gain there is in just a differential locker. Might be getting overly ambitious with the departure angles and stuff. But then again, 90% of offroad capability really comes down to drivers skill and judgement. Good luck!
And speed, don't forget speed!!
 

HazeltheMooseWagon

Active member
Basically, I’m trying to style the bus after a MAN Kat1. Sure it’s still a bus and is a little longer than one of these. I think the departure angle is proportional to the breakover angle when compared to one of the purpose-built off-road camper trucks. It will be able to take me further into the wild than I have been able to go in the past for sure.

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Keep in mind that we are a family of nine. An SUV or Unimog won’t cut it for us.


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IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Have you started your monstaliner application?

Its great stuff, but I hope you have enough... you have a monster amount of surface to cover.
Are you doing the roof as well??

As I recall, I used nearly 5 gallons for ours. And that didn't include the roof (its a silicone membrane)
I did go heavy, but still just 2 coats. But ours is tiny in comparison...

As I recall, it only covers 120 sq feet per coat, per gallon, in perfect conditions.
So just 60 sq ft per gallon in two coats, at the very most...

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HazeltheMooseWagon

Active member
Have you started your monstaliner application?

Its great stuff, but I hope you have enough... you have a monster amount of surface to cover.
Are you doing the roof as well??

As I recall, I used nearly 5 gallons for ours. And that didn't include the roof (its a silicone membrane)
I did go heavy, but still just 2 coats. But ours is tiny in comparison...

As I recall, it only covers 120 sq feet per coat, per gallon, in perfect conditions.
So just 60 sq ft per gallon in two coats, at the very most...

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I really like your rig IdaSHO, it’s very unique with all the angles. I hope I got enough Monstaliner too. I think I bought 8 gallons but I plan on coating 100 square feet of the roof with matching door jamb paint. It’s cheaper per gallon and covers 120 square feet per gallon with two coats. That part of the roof will be covered with a cedar deck anyway. How has yours been holding up? Any close calls with limbs or rocks yet?


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IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Its bomb proof stuff. So long as you prep well and follow the instructions, you have nothing to worry about.

The stuff is incredible.

I dont keep track of the impacts it takes, but it has taken plenty.
Interesting enough, I did notice some new scratches on the glass windows that must have been from
scraping branches (normal on North Idaho single track backcountry roads) that didn't seem to effect the coating, at all.
 

HazeltheMooseWagon

Active member
Its bomb proof stuff. So long as you prep well and follow the instructions, you have nothing to worry about.

The stuff is incredible.

I dont keep track of the impacts it takes, but it has taken plenty.
Interesting enough, I did notice some new scratches on the glass windows that must have been from
scraping branches (normal on North Idaho single track backcountry roads) that didn't seem to effect the coating, at all.

That’s awesome!


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IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Yes, but its not all gravy... which is why I question the amount of coating you have.

The stuff cures hard. Incredibly hard. Hard enough that its painful to sand.
So plan your application accordingly, and systematically. If you do not, and you run out of coating, it wont be fun.

You have been warned :ROFLMAO:
 

onemanarmy

Explorer
What is the weight rating of the front axle you plan to use? What T case? (Maybe I missed it?)

I know I wouldn't worry about paint or any aesthetics until it was running/driving/interior done and on the proper tires.

All that stuff REALLY slows down people....time and $$$$$. Next thing you know we'll see this 'project' for sale...but it has pretty paint!
 

HazeltheMooseWagon

Active member
I did a little bit of maintenance to the bus this afternoon. I’ve never messed with oil bath hubs before but they’re pretty simple. The front driver’s side seal was cracked and it appears like it has been filled with grease before.


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