Interior rear rack for a JKU

vtsoundman

OverAnalyzer
You did a killer job. Thanks for posting up the details.

Thx...if it is something you think about trying - go for it. Easy and very rewarding. It is an easy project and will cost ya less than $75 with all the bolts and rack. I used flange nuts that have ridges on the back - they dig into the metal when tightened and in this application I don't need locktite (time saver). Grab the HF 20% Coupon for the rack. One think to keep in mind - the ATV rack, as bolted like I've shown, is narrower than the roll bars. I did not feel the u-bolt/clamp method some have used was a good idea as clamps/ubolts rely on friction. Not sure if my method will work with a softop, but that's not my priority. I'd suggest getting a new set of quality drill bits (avoid the frustration) if you don't already have some. I have a benchtop drill press from CL. An automatic center punch is also a time saver and will prevent the drill bit from walking. Mine is from Tekton (~7$) and I use it constantly. If you omit the floor bars, the amount of drilling/messing around drops significantly.
 

Ranger110

New member
HF ATV Cargo rack for JK

This my rack build with the HF ATV rack minus the receiver portion. I had the rack laying around to place on my expedition trailer and thought it would be a neat and quick build. I just had to run down to Lowes and buy 2 u-bolts and 4 eye hooks., about $5. I used the eye hooks because the round bungee hooks would not fit around the square tubing on the rack. HF also sells a motorcycle cargo net for $4 that I may try. There was little modifications and the rack fits perfect between the roll-bar and sits just below the back seat so it won't block your view when not loaded. The rack seems sturdy but I may also use another support bolted from the back seat mounting bracket. hardware closeup.jpghardware.jpgrack before.jpgrack after.jpgmodification.jpgmodification done.jpgrack.jpg
 

Matpoo

New member
DIY as others have done. For my shelf I used 3/4" Baltic birch plywood coated with Duplicolor bedliner and edged with aluminum c-channel. The shelf is mounted to the roll cage using: u-bolts; 1/4" aluminum plate; and 1/4" x 2" aluminum angle.

A 37 qt fridge on a slide out platform sits comfortably under the cargo shelf with room to adjust the shelf up as high as you need. Bear in mind clearance between the shelf and roof as this will determine the height of the items you can store on the shelf.
1fc880ea82e0f458199237aed9ab523d.jpg
a702e2d342bbd3ce8bb5dce17421050f.jpg
65cbf91b7f3c6d366dcb468371270162.jpg
0c6aa7c762752830c807f3a85191829a.jpg


Sent from my SM-N920W8 using Tapatalk
 

Boatmonkey

Observer
I really like your homemade shelf. Great job on it. I might go this route. It looks professional for a fraction of the cost.
 

Sand1235

Member
DIY as others have done. For my shelf I used 3/4" Baltic birch plywood coated with Duplicolor bedliner and edged with aluminum c-channel. The shelf is mounted to the roll cage using: u-bolts; 1/4" aluminum plate; and 1/4" x 2" aluminum angle.

A 37 qt fridge on a slide out platform sits comfortably under the cargo shelf with room to adjust the shelf up as high as you need. Bear in mind clearance between the shelf and roof as this will determine the height of the items you can store on the shelf.
1fc880ea82e0f458199237aed9ab523d.jpg
a702e2d342bbd3ce8bb5dce17421050f.jpg
65cbf91b7f3c6d366dcb468371270162.jpg
0c6aa7c762752830c807f3a85191829a.jpg


Sent from my SM-N920W8 using Tapatalk

What are you using for the divider between the back seat and cargo area? I like your whole storage system.
 

Sand1235

Member

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