Interesting Cored Panel Build from Down Under

Nations1

New member
No Need
These guys do the exact thing except it is in knocked down flat pack form. You do have to assemble it yourself but it is all pre cut and laid out for you.
https://totalcomposites.com/expedition-trucks-rvs/

I’ve looked at both pretty closely, I personally like the StyroMax stuff better. It may be a matter of semantics but I like how they rabbet their corners, as opposed to using extrusions everywhere.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I believe both have their advantages and disadvantages, however my biggest gripe with these style of camper builds is that they have no style.

They are just limited to box shapes and lack options to add some nice curves....
That being said I believe Total Composites has a new product line coming that might solve this (check out his Instagram from his last trip to China)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yes any composite panels limit you to no curves. You can still make the angles to create a good aero shape and rear ground clearance. My complaint is most look to sanitary like inside. Easy enough to paint the outside but the all white inside says hospital room to me.
 

The Artisan

Adventurer
Most are white to give the feeling of a larger space. If you go darker it will feel smaller. You can do curves by slotting the foam making curves and filling. When you skin it it will form that curve.
Kevin
 

tanuki.himself

Active member
you can always decorate the inside. I'm planning on easy wipe down vinyl mosaic tile effect for the kitchen area, maybe some sort of vinyl wrap if I need to for other large areas inside, although by the time you have cupboards, switches, panels etc how much wall space will still be visible is debatable. And i'm thinking of running most of my wiring flush on the ceiling, then putting old school automotive head liner and thin foam over coroplast panels velcroed to the ceiling to give a more sound-absorbing surface but which will still give me easy access to the cabling if necessary....
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
Hey guys, just now finishing a Total Composites habitat for our MB 1120 AF. Although it easily doubled the amount of work I had a 45 degree angle put into the leading top edge and rear bottom. Also a shallower angle on the leading bottom. There is a lot more cutting, fitting and fabricating of parts than a typical TC square box build but I really like the design and the angles let us stretch the box to 17' from 16'. I also went with interior fiberglass/honeycomb panels for the major bulkheads mainly for the wetbath. After living on a boat for 20 years I have really come to appreciate the durability and ease of cleaning of gelcoated fiberglass and in small spaces bright is good. The cabinetry will likely be natural maple (or yellow birch). We will likely also put on some sort if vinyl graphics to break up the white expanse. After traveling in a small fiberglass tow-able camper (Scamp) that was painted teal and realizing how hot the interior can become in the desert, white is perfect.
 

tanuki.himself

Active member
I also went with interior fiberglass/honeycomb panels for the major bulkheads mainly for the wetbath. After living on a boat for 20 years I have really come to appreciate the durability and ease of cleaning of gelcoated fiberglass .

I was thinking of exactly this for my wet room, but all the time wondering if it would be OK to clean - not sure if our previous RV shower enclosures were fibreglass or acrylic. Good to know I'm on the right track....
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
A high level of care must be taken with honeycomb composite panels around water. Even the smallest pinhole can result in a waterlogged panel over time. I am a fan of using a liner or similar solid material bonded over the joints between panels of this type. Dramatically reduces the chances of water ingress.
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
On our boat we have a gelcoated fiberglass shower stall. Cleans up nicely with the normal bathroom cleaners.

My plan with the honeycomb panels is to route out the comb for about an inch depth. Then use polyurethane adhesive to bond in a wood strip flush to the edge of the panel. Then when I go to install the panel I will bond this wood to the wall. Now, this is all in the planning stage as I have never messed with honeycomb panels before so will be a bit of a learning curve. The other option is using an aluminum L channel to bond the corners using the same polyurethane. If I go this route I would likely get the L's powder coated first.

Below is a pic from a couple weeks ago. Since we are building in Vermont we have built it in a bubble using propane heaters to get the temps up (note the little blue thermometer on the floor) so the adhesive cures, so since it is pretty close to finished it is hard to get pictures as it fills the bubble. We are scheduled with a crane on Friday to lift it and mount on the chassis. Will post pics in the MB forum as I have sort of a build thread going there.

148.JPG
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,912
Messages
2,879,542
Members
225,497
Latest member
WonaWarrior
Top