Insulating an Aluminium Camper Box

Kamperfan

New member
Seems like every time I search online for information about campers I end up at this site so it’s probably the best place for me to pose a question.

I’m a Brit but have been living in Indonesia for the last 17 years and of late the idea of having a vehicle to tour this vast archipelago has become a bit of an obsession. The problem is that there simply are no campervans, motorhomes etc in the country and the laws here are not framed to allow for such vehicles. As a result I've become a bit desperate.

Initially I thought about importing a caravan-type vehicle but that would have incurred a 125% luxury tax!!! A used truck camper also gets hit by close to 100% on the total cost (purchase of the camper + freight costs). And cabovers are forbidden!

Next I thought that I would build a teardrop caravan but that is illegal. In fact, the construction of a trailer or the modification of any vehicle can only be carried out by a few authorized workshops and because they are in demand they can set high prices. Let’s not even get into the bureaucratic nightmare of getting the design and construction approved by the transport department.

A locally made pop top roof on a Land Rover won't work because due to the import tax the only affordable vehicles date from the 60s, 70s and 80s and a break down anywhere outside Java island would entail a wait of several days for spare parts.

A 4WD vehicle with a roof top tent was my next choice but when I discussed that idea on a local forum I was told that it was very risky. I was told stories of people off the beaten track at night being held at gunpoint, tourists camping on beaches being murdered etc. Not that a hard-sided vehicle is much safer in the middle of nowhere.

A VW T2 is still a possibility but like most van-like vehicles here the engine is not at the front and we feel horribly exposed. Driving standards are pretty low here and any frontal impact in such a vehicle would likely result in serious injury.

So, we were down to the choice of a VW T4 Caravelle (very expensive here), a Nissan NV200 or a Hyundai i800.

Then I had the idea of using a commercial box mounted on a 4WD pickup as an improvised truck camper. These are sold with the necessary type approval and are cheap but they have an aluminium skin, which, with average daytime temperatures at around 32 degrees (90F) would be extremely uncomfortable inside. This example has already had a window put in.
alumunium.jpg

Yes, I know it's UGGLLLYY but the one I order can be a bit different and remain within the law. I may even be able to order one with the sides hinged at the top so that they can be opened.

So, my question is, would it be possible to insulate such a box to the point where it would be usable? And if yes, what materials should be used and what thicknesses?
I’m thinking I could glue rigid foam insulation to the outside of the aluminium skin and then fiberglass it. On the inside I would use the same rigid foam insulation or spray foam the inside of the aluminium and then use plywood over that to provide a little more insulation and give me something to attach hardware like cupboards to.

Or if an aluminium skinned box would be too difficult to insulate what about the type of insulated box used to transport frozen foods?
Freezer Box.JPG

I would really appreciate anyone’s thoughts on these ideas
 

Sabre

Overlanding Nurse
I think that your idea is a great one. Yes, rigid foam, certainly. Not knowing what's available at your end, here are the options we can source: 1. polyisocyanurate (ISO) has the highest R-value & cost, and always comes with a foil backing; 2. extruded polystyrene (XPS) is the next-best and less expensive, coming in a variety of colors (blue, green or pink); 3. expanded polystyrene (EPS) is the white, crumbly stuff that most folks are familiar with in cheap coolers and in bicycle and motorcycle helmet liners...it's fairly cheap and offers the greatest R-value for the money (but not the greatest R-value per inch). Whichever one you choose, I would glue it to the inside of the shell and face it with something like a thin luan veneer. I'd be concerned about applying it to the outside as you suggest. That seems absurdly difficult for the possible benefit realized, and would add a great deal of complication to adding openings to the shell. A simpler idea would be to do what Land Rover have done for decades: place a sheet metal "safari roof" on top that stands off from the shell to allow airflow between the two.

Frozen food truck? Seems like that much foam would really limit your interior space. Looking at a few purpose-built vehicles that are used in Australia, they have 25 to 28 mm of foam insulation in the roof and walls.

Apart from whatever amount of insulation you end up using, ventilation is going to be key. Having sides that hinge upward sounds like a great idea. I'd also want to make sure that a fan system was in place to draw air through the box. One thing that comes to mind is that it could get quite stifling in there if you were experiencing heavy rain, so your ventilation system must work in a downpour as well as in sunshine, i.e., openings need to be able to withstand heavy rain without flooding you out. An awning system immediately comes to mind. You could also consider a large pop-up "party tent" sort of thing that covers the entire rear of the truck, which would have the further advantage of shading the box from the sun.
 
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Kamperfan

New member
Thanks Sabre. There's some great information in your reply.

I love Indonesia most of the time but some of the rules and regulations are nonsensical. And the bureaucracy is a joke.
I have been tempted to ignore the rules like the locals often do but I'm just too law abiding :)

Fortunately, all three of the insulating materials that you mention are available here.
You don't rate the spray foam highly then? A local company here was claiming that it offered the best R-values.
An alternative to a layer of foam on the outside could be to use solar reflective paint, though some of the manufacturers' claims seem over optimistic.

Last week I spoke to a company that makes freezer boxes for vehicles and they were making boxes for small pickups without the need for any steel frame.
Their secret is to use thick blue insulated foam produced by Dow. But it wasn't suitable for my needs because it is 80mm thick! If I used that all around it would
eat up about 10% of the space in the camper box! But a thinner foam (they do a 30mm one) with a simple steel frame might work.

You're right about ventilation and rain. The rainy season is just getting underway here and it can be torrential. Water finds its way into every nook and cranny.
I was thinking of erecting a reflective tarpaulin above the vehicle to help shield us from the sun and rain

CoolTarp.jpg
Though obviously I'll make sure it's higher in the middle than it is at the sides:snorkel:
 

sg1

Adventurer
I would not take EPS because it absorbs water and really is crumbly. A 30 mm foam panel would be great if you can get a ready made one. I have a 40 mm panel and the insulation is very good. Spray foam is a mess to apply if you do it yourself. Otherwise it doesn't really matter which foam you use because they all use the air trapped in the bubbles to insulate. If you decide to build your own sandwich, a aluminum/foam/plywood sandwich is very often used for RV's. It is easy to build and the plywood gives a nice natural feel inside and you can easily attach furniture etc.
Stefan
 

Sabre

Overlanding Nurse
...You don't rate the spray foam highly then? A local company here was claiming that it offered the best R-values....

Oh, I'm a big fan of spray foam insulation...it's premium stuff...but I wouldn't choose it for this job.

The R-value per inch (25.4 mm) of the rigid foams are as follows:
EPS: 4
XPS: 5
ISO: 6.5 after aging a bit from the original 8

Spray polyurethane foam has a per-inch R value of 5 to 6 and costs from 50% more to 3x more than the rigid board stuff. Gluing up the rigid boards is a straightforward DIY job, whilst the spray job would be a job for professional installers. Then you'd have to trim and rasp the interior to achieve a smooth surface.

I'm quite thrifty and a keen do-it-yourselfer, so would use the rigid stuff. If I were having the whole thing done there's a good argument for spray foam. I would want to ensure that closed-cell foam was used as it provides an air and moisture barrier and won't get waterlogged should a leak develop. If you do choose to put any foam outside the metal skin, it must be closed-cell. Again, it doesn't seem worth the trouble and expense to apply foam and a second skin to the outside.

In my oh-so-humble opinion, if you're using air conditioning there's a good argument for super insulating the thing, but otherwise you're going to want to focus on putting some air space between your roof and the hot sun and ensuring good ventilation. Whatever the top of your roof ends up being, white or reflective definitely makes sense.

Looking forward to see how this goes!
 

Kamperfan

New member
Thanks for your replies fellas. So an aluminium/ISO foam/plywood sandwich it is ..... maybe. I've been forced to change my plans so many times along the way that nothing is certain.

Apologies first because I've tried to insert photos into this post as I've done previously but only a link appears which has to be clicked on.

Yesterday I stumbled on another coachworks that has some interesting designs. This one has me really interested especially as the company has permission to use a single cab Ford Ranger as a base vehicle. Unlike the Toyota in my first post the Ranger has 4WD.

The opening sides will be really useful in sub-tropical Indonesia. Not so useful North of Seattle or in Alberta.

View attachment 320925

Better still the same company manufactures this

View attachment 320926

So I hope to incorporate some of the design elements in the second photo into the box of the pickup.
One sidewall will open fully as in the first to offer excellent ventilation, as well as act like an awning by creating a shaded area at the side of the camper. I hope it will also offer us great views!
Meanwhile, the other sidewall will be similar to the second photo. the top part will fold up to offer a bit of shade while the lower part will fold into a shelf for cooking outside.
And I'm hoping that the opening roof can be adapted into a leakproof popup roof so we can stand inside.

My main concern about this design for now is that Indonesia's rough roads will shake it all to bits and that we'll end up with sidewalls that are jammed shut.
Or alternatively the sidewalls no longer seal the vehicle properly allowing dust, rain and heat into the box. We may have to get the manufacturer to use higher spec materials all round.
I think the vehicle may eventually resemble an Aussie tray back camper.

One problem will be trying to camouflage the boxiness of the design. We want it to look more like a 4WD camper and less like the delivery vehicle that it began life as.

I plan to borrow one idea from a Nissan camper to help conceal the vehicle's humble origins by placing the spare wheel on top of the driver's cab.
As well as disguising the shape it would allow us to use the current spare wheel location underneath the rear of the vehicle as a place for a water tank.
I just hope we don't get too many punctures because heaving a spare wheel up there won't be much fun!

View attachment 320931

Another good reason for disguising the shape is that there are gangs that target delivery vehicles. Any other ideas about how to disguise the shape would be welcome.

I still don't have a price on the box. My wife's away until the end of the week and if I telephone the manufacturer they will know from my accent that I'm a Westerner. And that often results in prices being raised :( But boxes are very reasonably priced here usually. The box shown in the first post of this thread costs around $1000
 

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sg1

Adventurer
I don't think the design with the opening sidewalls will ever be dustproof. It may offer some protection against water if it is very well made. A pop up roof improves the usable space dramatically. I would definitely try to get one. Looking like a normal delivery truck is perhaps not a bad idea.It makes the truck a less desirable target for thieves and the truck would blend in better.
Stefan
 

Sabre

Overlanding Nurse
...Another good reason for disguising the shape is that there are gangs that target delivery vehicles....

...Looking like a normal delivery truck is perhaps not a bad idea.It makes the truck a less desirable target for thieves and the truck would blend in better....

There was a rig featured in the Overland Journal that was used by a professional photographer and hence full of high-dollar goods. To deter would-be thieves, the owner had applied legends reading "DANGER! Live poisonous snakes" outside the truck. I admired such creativity!
 

trailscape

Explorer
Hey folks.. The heat has me hiding out lately while conducting a few experiments with the truck. I'm dredging up an old thread as it kind of fit the bill.

I'm looking for some real world expectations and experience with interior peak season temperatures seen in insulated campers. I'd be interested in what's seen in anything from your home built or commercial to top of the line off the lot RV's and expedition vehicles.

I'm currently using a converted high top Leer DCC topper insulated with Rmax Thermasheath 1" R-6 Polyisocyanurate Rigid Foam from Home Depot. Summer temps are exceeding 96.0°F/~36.0°C and I'm trying to see how much I can keep the temps down with ventilation and adequate insulation improvements. I have a Fan-Tastic fan installed in the roof that is set by thermostat to activate at 99 and switch off at 92. I have windows all the way around, but keep the sides blocked with insulation.

With my fan running, I'm staying below the outside temperature while in direct sunlight. I'm still trying to get some good overall readings.
 

s.e.charles

Well-known member
does the fan have a dedicated make up air source? or just the cracks and body holes?

I've read the virtues of putting a low body or floor vent to create a chimney effect. claims that it works unless parking on the tarmac!
 

trailscape

Explorer
There's a popup trailer vent installed in the side, but the fan is so overpowered for the small space that I just opened up the front window to tie into the cab so I can leave the windows cracked.

does the fan have a dedicated make up air source? or just the cracks and body holes?

I've read the virtues of putting a low body or floor vent to create a chimney effect. claims that it works unless parking on the tarmac!

I was testing that idea at one point, but I couldn't get enough airflow from below without serious cutting to confirm it.
 

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