Installing a Detroit Locker in a Series Sals

KingSlug

Observer
Do I grind? I wish I had pics, but I was running late to get to work. I really need someone that has done this before on a Sals split case. I have confirmed the PN several times. This is kind of hard to explain.

I have the whole diff halves a part and cleaned. The diff halves are 60% height (ring side) and 40% height (opposite size), where the cross sits.

The stock cross has a machined edges on each end and the cases have a smaller diameter where the cross sits at each end. The Detriot Locker doesnt have machine ends on the cross. The main bores where the crosses sit are the same size as are the cross shaft diameters.

To get the DL cross to fit I will have to grind the ring side of the case to the thickness of the diameter of the cross so it will drop into the 60 side of the case or should I machine the DL cross ends? I am leaning toward grinding since its not much to grind.

Jared
 

KingSlug

Observer
Maybe if I explain it like this.


CO

For the cross ends to fit I would just have to grind the ends of the "C" so the "O" can drop in. I wouldn't be touching the bores the cross rest in just "C" that forms a lip outside the bores.

This is why I was hoping someone had done it before and knew what I was describing.

Jared
 

revor

Explorer
Maybe if I explain it like this.


CO

For the cross ends to fit I would just have to grind the ends of the "C" so the "O" can drop in. I wouldn't be touching the bores the cross rest in just "C" that forms a lip outside the bores.

This is why I was hoping someone had done it before and knew what I was describing.

Jared


I've done dozens Jared, one Salisbury's and Dana 60's and 70's. I've never had to grind anything, have you tried a dead blow hammer to Help the o past the c? You haven't removed the wing bolt yet have you?
 

KingSlug

Observer
I didnt want to bang it in, as its more than just a clearance issue. I cant get it in without grinding or machining.

Like I typed before the cross shaft is 1" and the very ends are 3/4" (not actually size, just used for reference). So the cases cross bores are 1" and the end bores are 3/4" and maybe 1/8" thick lip.

Jared
 
I didnt want to bang it in, as its more than just a clearance issue. I cant get it in without grinding or machining.

Like I typed before the cross shaft is 1" and the very ends are 3/4" (not actually size, just used for reference). So the cases cross bores are 1" and the end bores are 3/4" and maybe 1/8" thick lip.

Jared
Aren't the trunnion ends on the NoSpin relieved (flat or flattened) so you can get it in rotated, then straightened out it will stay in?
Like the man said, DON'T remove the wing nut till it's bolted back together; it will sort of explode.
Muskyman: a case spreader is used on the diff housing (pumpkin you see from the outside). He's trying to get the NoSpin into the the diff carrier, which normally contains the spider gears but in this case contains the NoSpin, the guts of a Detroit Locker. Forgive me if you already know this, but in your post it sounded like you were confusing the two.

Charlie
 
Last edited:

I Leak Oil

Expedition Leader
Jared,
I wouldn't grind anything just yet. You sure the detroit doesn't disassemble to the point you can put it in the case without grinding? If you're not sure then call someplace that can help. They may tell you that grinding is necessary but I wouldn't think so. Got any pictures to post of the DL unit?

The nice thing about my ARB install is it just replaced the entire carrier of the salisbury. More $$$ too....
Jason T.
 
oh ok so he is doing a lunch box locker into a factory diff carrier...my fault.

ignore me:elkgrin:

Correct, except the term "lunch box locker" refers to an EZ-Locker or Lockright. A NoSpin is a real Detroit Locker, just inside the factory carrier. Incidentally, NoSpins are made for sizes up to and over 40-46,000 lb tandems; even up to 70,000 lb planetary tandems. Those kind of axles usually have splittable carriers.

Charlie
 

I Leak Oil

Expedition Leader
Well after looking at the install instructions it definetly says NOT to disassemble the DL unit to install. Perhaps your carrier is an earlier or later part? Do they make a complete detroit unit for it you could use instead?
Jason T.
 

KingSlug

Observer
All right I didnt take apart the DL.

Below are some pics, I had the wife shoot at my direction.

Here are the cross ends from the stock and the DL. You can see where ther the stock cross is machined in, at that end the diff case has a lip to hold the smaller machined ends.

sany0553.jpg


Here is the DL cross sitting on the ring side of the case. This is what I was refering to as 60% case half.

sany0554.jpg


Here is the DL sitting in the 40% case half.

sany0556.jpg



JasonT: The DL cross does have flats but there is no way to rotate them in.

Muskyman: I didnt need a case spreader just a towel to remove the diff/ring gear.

I hope this helps.

Jared

PS: Sorry abot the picture size.
 

I Leak Oil

Expedition Leader
I can't tell anything from the photos other than I might need glasses!
OK, are the flats on the wrong side of the pins? Running front to back right? That why it doesn't go in?
How much are you talking about grinding off to make it work?
Jason T.
 

KingSlug

Observer
Like I said sorry for the bad pics, the wife took them at my direction over the phone.

OK, see how the stock cross is machined at the end? This is so it passes throught the C open section. Sort of like this Co.

Now the DL cross is not machined on the ends so the cross wont enter the mouth of the C. Sort of like this CO.

The grinding would just be the end of "C"s mouth so the cross can pass through the opening.

Jared
 

I Leak Oil

Expedition Leader
OK I got it now. I don't think you have the correct unit for your existing carrier. I would be leary of grinding anything off the case. If you do, you will lose surface area, or contact patch. So now all the load on the pins would be transfered to a smaller surface area, creating a better chance of wear. It may or may not be a problem but once the material is gone you can't put it back very easily.
If I were you I'd contact Eaton and try to get someone who can help with you're particular application. Or, you can try someone like Bill at Great Basin Rovers. He might be able to help as well.
I'd love to know how you make out with it so please post a follow up when you make some progress.
Jason T.
 

revor

Explorer
I assume you have this http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_128312.pdf

The flats are cutter overruns from cutting the clutch teeth teeth on the Spider assembly.

The No Spin's that will fit in the case are the Salisbury version for the 24 spline and the 22 spline for the 101 as well as the 35 spline for the Dana 70. All three of these axles use a virtually identical case.

Are you sure that something else isn't holding things up?

If I can get to it tonight I will pull a Salisbury carrier apart and have a look.
 

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