Installed my air-bags today

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Ever since we've had the Suburban we've had an issue with the "tail dragging" stance when pulling our trailer. With the new, heavier R-Pod we got in January, the problem is even more pronounced.

Although we did purchase a Weight Distributing Hitch, I really wanted to see if I could correct the problem with air bags (the WDH seems both heavy and complex, I was looking for a simple "plug and play" solution. I also thought a WDH was a bit of overkill for a ~ 3500lb trailer.)

I used the AIr Lift 1000 system with synthetic bags that go inside the coil springs.

On an install like this, step one is to jack the truck up, remove the wheels, and then put jackstands under the frame and let the axle hang down. This opens up the springs so you can insert the bags. You need REALLY tall jackstands for this so make sure your jackstands are big enough. Mine weren't so I had to put them on top of a 3" thick paving stone.

Here's a few tips I wanted to pass on to anyone planning on a similar install:

First of all, the instructions don't say to drop the spare tire but I'd advise you to do it, especially if you plan on running the air lines to the rear bumper. It makes it much easier. Also, you can run the air hoses in between the bottom of the body and the top of the spare tire carrier so the spare doesn't damage the air lines.

Second, the first step which is "deflate the airbags and slip them into the spring" is by far the hardest part of the whole install. Took me a few hours until I finally realized that if I rolled the bags lengthways and then zip-tied them shut they'd go in easier (once they were inside the spring I cut the zip tie and removed it.) The instructions say to "roll the bag from the bottom to the top" to get the air out but that still leaves the top and bottom pieces too big to fit inside the spring.

Honestly, if I had to do it over again I'd get some power tools, like an air powered impact wrench, and unbolt the lower shock and sway bar and let the axle hang all the way down and just pull the spring out. Install the bag inside the spring, put the spacer on top and attach the air hose. It would have taken about 1/3 of the time to do it that way vs. trying to stuff the stupid bag inside the coil.

Another tip: The air hoses are TIGHT and very difficult to fit onto the nipples on both the air bags and the T-connector that connects the two air hoses to the single supply line. I found that if I heated up the hose with a heat gun on LOW, for just a few seconds, it became pliable enough to slip onto the "jaws" of the air connector and once it cooled off it held very tightly.

Our first trip is this Friday so I've got my fingers crossed that with 35lb (max pressure for the bags) it will keep the truck straight and level while towing.

Let me know if you have any questions! Don't have pictures but may try to get some later this week.
 

Ace Brown

Retired Ol’ Fart
I used Airlift bags inside the coils of my FJ Cruiser and my current 4Runner. The first instal the guys from 0 ‘ “ did it for cost plus a six pack. It took a long time even with pulling the coils out. My 4R I had Proffitt Cruisers do it and paid dearly. One thing I did different was use a separate air line for each side. Reason was to level the rig and I always ran 3-4 extra # in one side to correct any lean. The other reason is when cornering the bag on the low side will be pushing to the high side causing even more lean in the vehicle. During those long sweeping corners it will make a difference. I also carry a good bicycle pump with digital gauge to adjust pressure. Max I run is about 15 psi and 5 when not towing.

Ace


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Last edited:

heidiurs

Adventurer
I used Airlift bags inside the coils of my FJ Cruiser and my current 4Runner. The first instal the guys from 0 “ ‘ did it for cost plus a six pack. It took a long time even with pulling the coils out. My 4R I had Proffitt Cruisers do it and paid dearly. One thing I did different was use a separate air line for each side. Reason was to level the rig and I always ran 3-4 extra # in one side to correct any lean. The other reason is when cornering the bag on the low side will be pushing to the high side causing even more lean in the vehicle. During those long sweeping corners it will make a difference. I also carry a good bicycle pump with digital gauge to adjust pressure. Max I run is about 15 psi and 5 when not towing.

Ace


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Thats true ,about separate lines.Vehicle is more stable and straight.Nearly lost one vehicle ,while overtaking a roadtrain on single lane bitumen track.Changed to 2 separate lines and feels a lot more stable.But took airbags out after years of loading up the K5 ,not realising only the airbags kept the vehicle level.[Front to Back].went allright for 15 years until oneday we had to cross a riverbed at speed and on landing the lefthand bag let go. Stuffed some semihard rubber in the helpercoil to get home.Found some H/D leafsprings out of a dualwheel truck and she sits now better then ever before. Keep us informed on your build and show some pictures please.
cheers Urs
 

E.J. Webb

New member
You should run separate lines to the bags so in corning the air will not flow from one bag to the other. It can make it unstable. I ran bags on a truck with a pop up camper and you want it to be stable down the road and not flopping side to side, good luck.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
I was busy this weekend putting air bags in my old truck as it had started to sag and I didn't want to spend big bucks to keep the bumper from dragging the ground.
View attachment 446099

Now that's a redneck airbag right there! :LOL:

As for the separate lines - the install instructions specifically say don't do that unless you know you'll need different levels on each side.

I suppose if it comes down to it and I decide to run separate lines it should be fairly simple, as long as I can just get an in-line connector (which I assume I can?) to replace the T-connector I have now. With the in-line connector in place of the T-connector I'd get a second in-line connector and run it to a second line and a second Schrader valve fitting on the bumper.
 

Ace Brown

Retired Ol’ Fart
I was busy this weekend putting air bags in my old truck as it had started to sag and I didn't want to spend big bucks to keep the bumper from dragging the ground.
View attachment 446099

Now that's a redneck airbag right there! :LOL:

As for the separate lines - the install instructions specifically say don't do that unless you know you'll need different levels on each side.

I suppose if it comes down to it and I decide to run separate lines it should be fairly simple, as long as I can just get an in-line connector (which I assume I can?) to replace the T-connector I have now. With the in-line connector in place of the T-connector I'd get a second in-line connector and run it to a second line and a second Schrader valve fitting on the bumper.

As you can see from the above several of us disagree with Airlift. I can’t imagine why they say don’t unless they are worried about the liability of someone filling one side too much.


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Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
As you can see from the above several of us disagree with Airlift. I can’t imagine why they say don’t unless they are worried about the liability of someone filling one side too much.


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Maybe their concern is that if the bag or one of the lines fails and it's set up with a single fill, then both bags will deflate, whereas if it's set up with two separate fill lines, one side could deflate while the other side remains inflated, and maybe they're concerned that could cause an accident?
 

Ace Brown

Retired Ol’ Fart
As you can see from the above several of us disagree with Airlift. I can’t imagine why they say don’t unless they are worried about the liability of someone filling one side too much.


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Maybe their concern is that if the bag or one of the lines fails and it's set up with a single fill, then both bags will deflate, whereas if it's set up with two separate fill lines, one side could deflate while the other side remains inflated, and maybe they're concerned that could cause an accident?

Naaah.


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heidiurs

Adventurer
As you can see from the above several of us disagree with Airlift. I can’t imagine why they say don’t unless they are worried about the liability of someone filling one side too much.


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Maybe their concern is that if the bag or one of the lines fails and it's set up with a single fill, then both bags will deflate, whereas if it's set up with two separate fill lines, one side could deflate while the other side remains inflated, and maybe they're concerned that could cause an accident?

Naaah.


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My Airbags/progressive bumpstops on car.
b89770b20eedf2e22a37009fcdb2ff0c.jpg


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Choff

Adventurer
I have Air Lift Bags on our 2005 GMC Savana AWD , have had them on for 100,000 miles with the only issue to replace the 90 degree inlets on the bags. And yes running separate lines in back for filling.
Love them for bringing up the ass end of a Van and Towing & cornering , run about 5 lbs to 10 lbs, and have had them towing up to 80lbs.
Did not buy a kit, had the bags on a older 2000 ford Explorer and took them off when I traded for the van and made my own brackets for mounting to the frame.
I would not use a Football or Tennis Balls!!!-Maybe Soccer ball ??
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
be careful hanging the axle like that on a gmt800, at max droop it is pulling the brake line tight. When I was messing with my coil spring spaces I found I could set the frame on jackstands and the axle on my floor jack and with everything else loose I could tilt the axle down enough to get the springs loose.
 

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