Installation for Hydronic heater

HAF

Active member
I have chosen to mount this outside in a lower box for safety reasons. The location also makes it easy to access should there be any problems. The box is constructed of aluminum. I have pipe couplings welded into the back plate of box for barbed fittings in and out. To eliminate any galvanic corrosion, I am using plastic fittings suitable for temperatures over 220 degrees F. Piping with a horse shoe type course, ensures there is plenty of room for hose expansion and contraction. I have kept the hose runs as short as possible as well and will install special rolled edge clamps in place of the ones shown.
Should there ever be a hose leak, fluid will simply drain out of a fitting in bottom of box.
I will be making an aluminum cover that neatly fits over this assembly for protection from stuff that will be stored in this box.
 

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Alloy

Well-known member
That's a nice install but.....

An air filter will prevent road dust from contaminating the burner.

Hose doesn't have an oxygen barrier vs. PEX made for hydronic does.

Make sure to run glycol/water mix

A cushoin clamp for the pump will reduce noise.

Might consider adding vents at the top of the hoses or lowering the heater so you're not fighting airlocks.
 

HAF

Active member
I have yet to install intake and exhaust. I am using a pre-packaged RIXENS system that includes the hoses for this set up. They look like automotive heater hoses. I am using ABA clamps that have nice rolled edges (not installed yet). The portion of this system will be at a higher level than the heater. I am adding an "air scoop" for proper venting. I have had air lock issues with another system I have built. I discovered that trapped air-any trapped air in system will put up a fight with the boiler and cause issues.
I am taking your advice on the air filter-thats a great idea.
 

HAF

Active member
Here an option to the hose. Easier to work with vs PEX but not cheaper


Here's a couple of auto vents The Hoffman vents need to go in a dry location as they use a tiny disc that drys out to vent air.


Thank you so much for these links. The vent from Supply House is exactly what I am looking for. Thanks again.
Pete
 

HAF

Active member
Filter looks great.
I have the system running. I am bringing hot water in first through a plate heat exchanger, then through a heat exchanger in hot water heater, then finally through a heat exchanger with fan for cabin heat.
I now have instant hot water to sink and shower-instant meaning about 1 second before its hot. By running fresh water first through 6 gallon pre-heated tank, then through plate heat exchanger, hot water is fast and abundant. The heat out of cabin heater is amazing-heats up camper in no time.
I did install an automatic air bleed which is working perfectly.
 

westyss

Explorer
Nice install! I have had my hydronic installed for ten years now without a filter on the intake, I only use it while stationary so no dust enters the chamber or at least none that affect it.

Whats the "plate heat exchanger"?
 

HAF

Active member
Plate heat exchanger is comprised of plates stacked like an Oreo cooking. Hot water flows in every other plate. Cold water in the other plates. The hot plates heat the cold plates.
Instant hot water!
 
D

Deleted member 12023

Guest
Are you using an expansion tank or are you tied into the vehicle cooling system and using the overflow tank for expansion?
 

JRhetts

Adventurer
Like westyss, I have my hydronic furnace tied into the truck coolant system - incl. to be able to make hot water or house heat while driving. That also allows the truck radiator to be the pressure relief point for the hydronic furnace when the furnace is running.
I do not ever run my hydronic furnace when driving, and while parked [off an on over 17 yrs] I have never had dust intake into an Espar D-5 be an issue.
Is there a compelling reason you are concerned about dust intake to the furnace?
 

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